..... snip
Me ? I’m sold on them as are all my team mates .?
I'm not knocking them but pointing out stuff to the question why are they not more popular.....
First I bought LiFe's for the FireHawk, didn't fit in stock buffer tube but managed to fit a thinner buffer tube
then fit the short square 9.9v stick on the FH - think it was an old SRC buffer tube but deffo thinner walls
and yes offered more juice than the 7.4v stick LiPo's.....
I said they offer more zest in STOCK GUNS but on tweaked guns the difference seems to lower/vanish
THIS is important to point out as if the potential owner finds this out for themselves IF they tweak their guns
Then they might be a bit miffed as to where's my missing zest gone ????
The charge settings I pointed out as if new owner chargers them on LiPo settings the can damage them
or affect the cell capacity/balancing across the 3 x 3.3v cells
of course it is easy to change or use B3 with LiFe switch/setting if you can't alter the B6
but as people have come from nimah's where you just plug in 7.2/8.4/9.6/10.8v and switch on smart charger
or a B3 where you just plug in balance lead and it trickle charges it without any settings.....
Well they might not be fully aware about settings - which is important on the different LiPo-LiFe battery charging
As for UPGRADE bit - yes I agree it is the player not the gun that wins the game - very often I have said that
Plus after all the go faster stripes and breaking stuff loads I often will say & apply - Twenties is plenty
(no more ultra crazy rof crap)
However by using a higher 9.9v over a 7.4v - isn't that also an UPGRADE in voltage terms rps/response ???
If people change motors/gears/juice then that is their choice I guess
Most UPGRADES are often not really needed - often if not careful you can make matters worse
(I know only too well and try to advise people where they might have gone wrong as I MYSELF have done that)
Personally if you get a gun at say 18rps to about mid twenties 24rps say then leave it there
at 18+ imho the gun cycles that bit better that the chances of you releasing trigger too early on semi spamming
so less likely the get COL half raised or stuck in "dead zone" - just my feelings on speed response of a gun
HOW this achieved is up to OP and what is inside the gun already
eg: slow 12rps stock but maybe a mosfet inside - use 11.1v will get say 19rps
7.4v to 11.1v will give you aprox 55% boost over 7.4v - don't ask but it is often a smidge more than 50%
the extra cell is a boost to an already cycling gun or first 3.7v gets gun moving, 2nd cell boosts it and 3rd boosts further
Gun examples might be G&G ETU's or Krytac's with a 20k motor producing meeehhhhh results on 7.4v
some guns have better near balanced motors in there and might shoot say 15rps out of box
example ICS motors seem quite snappy for stock guns/motors
so in this case a 9.9v LiFe might fit the bill just right
Some guns like the G&G ETU or even Evo might need to run on 11.1v for best results
I have my own reasons for altering stuff also - mainly some guns are so badly assembled or use crap parts
usually cheapo budget guns - I still haven't taken apart some guns like Hef's old Krytac or the TopTech FH
(I might be daft but I ain't that stupid - if it ain't broke etc.....)
Cheapo guns often have $hit gears that run rough and shimmed badly - yes Cyma your gears are crap ffs
(JG are much smoother & mesh better)
Cyma your f*cking motor is pants 28tpa with weak ferrite magnets - just stop using this motor it's useless
Other qwirky crap I can live with but could do without scrapping waspy gears & pi$$ poor motors often
(yes I can use more juice, but 7.4v are cheaper & smaller space - plus got loads of 7.4v's than 11.1v's/9.9v's)
Yes they can chuck in say a 18tpa motor, but not all stock bevels mesh nicely with most pinions
YES Cyma - your #1 bevel is f*cking $hit AGAIN, so it will sound a bit rough plopping a better motor on some guns
(Cyma pinion is OK - it is their bevel that is the real problem - it's cut at a w@nky angle to mesh badly with pinions)
Plus I can rip stuff apart and screw up if I choose and advise people of findings or warn them of risks of messing up
Use what battery or juice you like 7.4v 9.9v or 11.1v - heck stay with 9.6v or 10.8v if they want
just pointing out the differences, range/costs, charge settings etc....
and technically increasing the voltage is in effect UPGRADING or boosting the voltage/juice or speed of gun(s)
So I will need a LiFE capable charger. I assume the IMAX B6 AC v2 would be a good choice.
You alter the actual LiPo settings on B6 or setup a custom one
but think I have to alter the LiPo settings on my B6 (clone) to alter voltage etc...
tried once or twice to set up a custom setting but just seemed to set up a custom 2200mah 2 cell LiPo setting
didn't allow me to save the voltage from 3.7v (4.2v actual limit) to 3.3v (3.8v actual limit) until I edited the LiPo volts
Well when I messed about trying to charge a Life - that is what I did, then changed the volts back for LiPo's when done
admit I never RTFM properly, maybe there is a way to properly set up a custom setting fully on a gen B6
(mine is a clone - yes we should use genuine B6's as they are known to be much greater tolerance no overcharging risk)
Or buy a B3 with LiFe balance port/switch - nah get a B6 (ergh genuine one I should say)
