Aac T10/Mk23 Build - Ex Srs or Vsr?

[leadly]

I'll be keeping an eye on this! Payday has struck and I need a silent sidearm! Torn between genuine TM or a copy!

 

[MiK]

Ok been to collect the bits n bobs and going very very slowly drilling/filing and putting back together - mods are done (admittedly I have to open it all back up to put that pin back in).

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[MiK]

@leadly Gun Cost £55 from PB and £103.83 (including all postage) in parts & .40 BB’s from LongbowBB & Skirmshop NL - excluding green gas/bits needed to mod the gun like a drill bit etc

I've just chrono’ed it - And it was 325-345 ave 335 with it untouched but went to 337.8-344.3 ave 341.4 with about half a turn of the TDC nubs - admittedly they really shot out well but by hell they flew up cloud bound

I slapped some 0.40’s in and got 229.2-264.8 ave about 240.8 - I was around the 0.98-1.30 ave about 1.08 joules I forgot to reset the chrono for the heavier BB’s /nubcake but the 0.40’s flew like a laser  - dead straight at about 40 metres  \o/

first shot is from the unit then I remembered I had the Acetech chrono app for my Tracer unit ?

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[Steveocee]

I'll be keeping an eye on this! Payday has struck and I need a silent sidearm! Torn between genuine TM or a copy!

TM is supposedly "nicer" quality but if you rip most of the internals out then copy all the way. You can use a TM in it's standard form with just a TDC and get superb results.

 

[MiK]

Oki doki - I’m back!! (‘sorry for disappearing mid build)

All the parts have been sat idling for the last two months on my bench but due to serious real life stuff (not the C-19 thang) having to support my Wife and family after Emma’s brother collapsed one Monday morning and ended up in a coma - he is awake now and in a hospital closer to home but we can’t visit (FU C-19) and things have settled down family wise to a point I can turn some of my attention to the T10 that was/is collecting dust.

So I actually did buy the following from SkirmshopNL

Maple Leaf Omega Nub Tensioner
Maple Leaf Autobot Bucking 75°
Maple Leaf Autobot Bucking 70°
Maple Leaf 430mm Crazy Jet Innenlauf für VSR MARUI VSR-10 FN-SPR
Action Army VSR10 / T10 Hopup Chamber
Laylax PSS10 High Pressure Piston (Zero Trigger Version) For VSR-10 Bolt Action Rifle Series
Action Army Twisted Cylinder For VSR10/T10 - Silver Grey
STALKER Panthera Concave Nub Set (3pcs)

I'm gonna get on to it this weekend, so I’m gonna hit up the YouTube for some how-to’s and finding out what lubricants is needed where/which parts.

 

[MiK]

Dumb question (spose it isn’t if you know) as most YT vids seem to “gloss” over what they/you should use .....

What lubricant should I use on the Spring guide ? Spring ? Piston ?  Cylinder ?

oh and with the PSS10 piston do I leave the white “pokey nozzle” on it ?

 

[leadly]

I used a small squirt of Wd-40's white lithium grease. A little seemed to go a long way.

 

[MiK]

@leadly Was that on everything or just the spring or piston ?

 

[Samurai]

Lithium grease on springs and trigger stuff, silicone oil on O ring.

 

[MiK]

Do I keep this screwed in or take it off ?

lots of pistons don’t seem to have that solid peg (it’s not a nozzle)

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[Hudson]

Leave it on if possible. 

It's an air brake, it's for making shots quieter. 

 

[Skara]

white “pokey nozzle” on it ?

It's called an airbrake and you should leave it on as it helps a lot in reducing the sound signature.

 

[MiK]

Ok done the install - wasn’t as scary as I thought it would be - just really took my time.

I did some Chrono on .2’s and .4’s I haven’t adjusted the hop yet - just wanted to see what was what - there’s some variation in FPS tho ( I had changed to .4’s on the chrono just forgot to change it on the app but the numbers match the chrono) with the variations is that a air leak or just a bedding in thing ?

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Also the mags a little stiff getting it in - any reasons for that ?

 

[Hudson]

No, it shouldn't vary by more than a few FPS really, so there must be a leak somewhere. 

I'd check the piston & cylinder section first.

Unscrew the outer barrel and take the trigger, receiver & cylinder. Cock it it, then cover up the cylinder head with your thumb or something. 

The piston should stop partway if your seal is good, but if not it'll release all the way. 

If it's bad, fix that then try again until sorted, reassemble & re-chrono to test the consistency. 

If the air seal is good but you're still getting a wide range then look at the hop unit and barrel to fix any leaks there. 

 

[MiK]

@Hudson cheers bud I’ll take a peak for the leak - should I lube the outer cylinder to make the pull a little smoother ?

 

[Hudson]

You can do. I put a small bit of lithium grease on the outside of mine. 

 

[MiK]

@Hudson Ok I striped that down to trigger/upper/cylinder when I fire I can hear a kind of “faint bubbling” inside of the cylinder - sounds like air is coming out of the middle/back of the cylinder nothing seems to be coming from the nozzle

 

[MiK]

@Hudson All sorted !!

After stripping it all down and remember that white peg I was asking about yesterday ??
Well it wasn’t tight enough  got that sorted had a nice seal and was firing around the 460-465 mark then I tweaked the hop-up a little and it went 472-475  - don’t have any screenies as I did a firmware update when it popped up and I lost everything and now it’s tipping it down so can’t get back out.

But if  it’s nice tomorrow evening I’ll try again and get some numbers for both .2 and .4

/cheers for the pointers 

 

[Steveocee]

FWIW don't lube the outside of the cylinder with grease or oil. It will attract grime and dust and just erode away at your cylinder and receiver. The best thing I've found is Muc-Off do a PTFE dry lube product for about £5 which leaves things buttery smooth but is totally dry.

 

[MiK]

@Steveocee Yea I had a nice can of WD40 Specialist Anti Friction Dry PTFE in my stockpile of “things bought for one job ages ago” stuff