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airsoftot

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Posts posted by airsoftot

  1. Hi

     

    I've currently got a Aeres Ameoba 007. It's shooting 240fps. I only have Nimh battery. I have a few used mid-caps but mainly use hi-caps. At this point, I just want to sell what I have and buy a new rifle which is built/made to deal with 350fps... ideally great out the box or a solid platform I can build on for a few cheap performance upgrades (hop up, barrel e.g.). Or a used rifle with all the mods. I don't mind new or used. I don't really have a budget, I just don't want to spend money unneccesarily. I enjoy DIY and have loads of general tools.... so modifications aren't scary but I don't want to waste money.

     

    So essentially the shortlist of what I -think- I'm looking for:

     

    - M4 Platform

    - Will use EPM1 Mags (seem the best to me?.. advice on this?)

    - Metal gearbox

    - 350FPS for UK sites

    - shoot .28 / .30 for woods and wind/range

    - Mainly semi-auto... possibly some full auto but not bothered about giga RPS. Tend not to be a sprayer.

    - Reliable

    - Lightweight / polymer body.

    - Mixed woods/CQB... do it all

    - Short/shorter style rifle maybe best for use? (do it all)

    - not too sure on batteries but 11.1v lipo sounds nice

    - anything else I've missed??

     

    I wear a DYE i4 mask and would like to continue to. I understand I may need an adaptor for the stock

     

    There's lot of options I'm honestly a bit lost with exactly what I should get... when I look at some things people recommend they are out of stock. I don't mind buying used but sometimes it's difficult to find the right deal. Also, I tend not to simply get bored of things, I just appreciate something very functional and I think this list is pretty good if there's something that meets everything.

     

    Apologies if I've missed some sticky but would really like to hear your thoughts on some examples. Would apprecaite it if you could keep it pragmatic... im not a pro and have tried to research this myself

     

    Thanks!

  2. On 24/10/2021 at 14:46, concretesnail said:

    The other thing you could look at is the pts epgc. I think the c is foe compact and it's a steeper angle than most m4 grips. I run one and it does feel more like my mp9 than other m4 grips, much more vertical.

     

    thanks

     

    how do your m4 and mp9s compare?

  3. 14 hours ago, TheFull9 said:

    I don't think there is an electric M4 with a straight up vertical pistol grip, closest you'll get is either fitting a BCM grip replica or getting one of the VFC licensed BCM AEGs.  Some of the new ARES X-class are pretty vertical but.. ARES.

     

    The other way is to move the pistol grip further from you in the form of absolutely any bullpup or extending your AR stock.  Can always put the stock over your shoulder for those close encounters, perfectly legitimate technique even with real guns with real recoil.  Between the most vertical grip angle you can get away with in a V2 GB and a longer stock you'd probably feel more comfortable, can always go with a real short barrel too since those make very little difference with bbs.

     

    VFC MP7 is a good mention and ticks the boxes but they're not super well designed inside from what I've seen.  It's a super tricky set of boxes to actually tick in a full blooded AEG, hopefully someone else can think up something.

     

    i'm actually using an ares amoeba am-007, so thanks 😆

     

    the weight and barrel length is great.. i was thinking about fitting a half-size "drop stock" similar to the LCT AK12

     

    VFC MP7 is a good shout if only it used M4 mags :<

     

    looks like i may have to suck it up until more small speedsoft-style aegs come on the market because ultimately that's the market where a gun like this would be developed

  4. Hi

     

    M4/MP5/ARP9 etc all have an angled hand grip which puts my wrist at an awkward angle when in a tight, upright, elbow in position.. the MP7 handgrip looks perfect (0 degree)..

     

    Ideally I am looking for a M4 (because of bigger mags, common parts etc) with 0 degree grip but that does not seem possible due to motor size/angle..

     

    Looking at AEGs only, no gas please

     

    Thoughts?

     

    Thanks

     

    image.jpeg.11fca2962196daa3cd25d4c7624b201e.jpeg

  5. 11 minutes ago, Ebeneezer Goode said:

    To be brutally honest... the amount you'd splurge on "upgrades" that a) give little increase in performance (already a very subjective concept) and b) end up fcuking up an otherwise perfectly functioning gun are just not worth it.

    Get out to plenty skirms and focus on improving your play, technique or tactics - that will result in much better performance in your game. Its all about the player, not the weapon.

     

    agree and disagree :) "if it's not broke don't fix it" springs to mind, but adapting something to suit your use/style is never a bad thing if well implemented

     

     

  6. 42 minutes ago, Rogerborg said:

     

    Wow, that's some talent you've got there, being able to judge the muzzle energy of an airsoft gun by sound, or feel, or using the Force.  And no, you can't tell from comparing ranges either, given the difference that BB weights and having the hop spot on make.

     

    You're not special, and if you aren't interested in playing by the same rules as everybody else, please find a different hobby.

     

    we shot our balls high up into the air whichever lands on the floor first is less powerful

  7. 2 hours ago, emilianoksa said:

    I would just use it as it is, and on a 9.6 nimh. 

     

    The G&G Raider has been around for yonks and is still perfectly playable. They are good guns, but not really worth the cost of much upgrading. 

     

    Late you may get something a bit better, but the CM16 will always be worth keeping as a back up gun or something to lend to a friend.

     

    And the "better" gun will not necessarily perform any better. But it will be nicer to look at and a lot more expensive.

     

    It's airsoft after all. There is no equivalent of a BMW in this sport. All the brands have their weaknesses. None are 100% reliable. They are made of cheap components.

     

    Cheers, I was just saying to my friend how I thought I may be better off leaving the CM16 alone and keeping it as a backup/spare

     

    The only thing is I actually really like the gun; it's cheap, light, durable.. paint doesn't scratch etc and being the most sold gun everywhere has spares and of course there is aftermarket support for the gun itself and m4 being developed continually (such as the 250 mid cap mag). I'm not afraid to upgrade and tune all the internals, as that's something I will be doing with my main gun regardless 

     

    Still just new so not familiar with all the manufacturers/models... I'll maybe see if there is a better polymer m4 base to start with

  8. Cheers

     

    So just to update I've been at the weekend (twice). Gun seemed to perform well enough however shots were dropping off earlier than I'd have liked with the 0.25 BBs I was using even with some hop up fliddling. Did not chrono gun so may get some more range/power if fps is 10-20% below limit. Upgrading the hop unit or rubber will potentially help here too I guess. Groupings seemed fine.

     

    My mask (paintball mask) did get in the way a bit so had to spend most of the games with the rifle held up above my shoulder 😆  I took off the red dot and rear iron sights as couldn't get behind them and just used the inside rail and feel which seemed to work well. Stock position seems to be a problem, I know using goggles and a separate face guard would help but I preferred the close aggressive fights so think I'll stick with a paintball mask but might try some other brands (dye etc) to see if this will give me more room around the cheek specifically.

     

    Someone was selling a foregrip cheap which felt great and helped a lot.

     

    Updated list of what I want from a (any) gun:

     

    - Drop stock because of mask and CQB.

    - Electric trigger.

    - Mid cap size between 170-250+ with remaining-capacity indicator (e.g. PTS EPM)

    - Lightness

    - Neutral/rear weight balance

    - Straighter grip? (my wrist is bent at an awkward angle when holding the gun at head height)

     

    The ARP 556 and SSG1 are more similar to what I want (stock for stock), of course they are fundamentally the same M4 just with different stocks/rail. Suppose I'll have to see if I like the SSG1 stock and what options there are in terms of adding a foregrip, just not at the very end. I don't want to rely on using the mag/magwell or c-clamp

     

    Any other options I'm missing?

     

    Thanks!

  9. 10 hours ago, Tactical Pith Helmet said:

    I have a daft amount of guns.   For skirmishes and non-themed games, I grab the G&G CM16 that I bought years ago when I first started out.  In fact, I have a couple of them in slightly different specs.  

     

    ZCI plastic hop is more set and forget than the standard one, which can creep over time.  The standard green hop rubber is pretty good, but a Maple Leaf and Omega nub is obviously a bit better.  A decent barrel is a good investment, again ZCI are fine.  An SHS high torque motor works well, but you still have the sloppy trigger, so don't worry if you can't afford one off the bat.  

     

    Checking the two tiny grub screws that keep the outer barrel tight is essential.   The lack of barrel support limits what you can do re: accuracy, so don't go mad.   

     

    When stripping down to fit a new hop/barrel watch that the battery wire doesn't get trapped in front of the gearbox shell as it causes feeding issues.  It can also cause mags to refuse to fit if it too loose/pushed against the base of the gearbox shell. 

     

    Magwel grips can cause waffle/honeycomb mags not to fit.  

     

    An inline mosfet does no harm.  

     

    Personally I'd fit barrel, rubber, and hop unit in that order of importance, and only upgrade other items as they break (eventually).   Use ZCI bits as I was recommended here a few years back.  

     

    A better motor won't hurt, and an inline 'fet you can use in your next rif anyway.  The upgrades won't add to the minimal re-sale value, so put the stock bits back in if you sell and keep the upgrades for the next rif too.  

     

    what type/firmness rubber would you recommend?

  10. 4 hours ago, Fatboy40 said:

    For me the weak spot I've found on these is the mechanical trigger, not that it's prone to failing or anything, just that it's clunky and unless you always pull it 100% back you can cause the gun to jam on semi (you clear the jam by flipping to auto and pulling the trigger again, I think due to the "anti reversal latch" engaging due to a full cycle of the gearbox not having been completed).

     

    Also be conscious of what batteries you use, to high a voltage and you can fry the mechanical trigger.

     

    thanks for the tip i was not aware of the "jam" as you describe.

     

    I have a 8.4v 1600mah and 9.6v 1600mah NiMH

     

    1 hour ago, Sneaky said:

    I would advise that you play a couple of days with your new toy before making any changes to it.  Speak to other airsofters to when you play.

     

    I assume you have or working on your UKARA?

     

    thanks

     

    of course 😇

  11. 41 minutes ago, RonLancs said:

     

    Firstly welcome, 

     

    I’ll suggest what others will suggest, take it for a game first, see how you get on. 
     

    (If you’re anything like I was when I started you’ll nah I wanna spend money on upgrades) haha 

     

    but seriously go get a game or two under your belt, heavy(er) bb’s and you should be fine.

     

    cheers

     

    i've got some 0.25 bbs 

     

      

    40 minutes ago, EDcase said:

    Is it new?

    How does it shoot?

     

    Probably not worth 'upgrading' internally until something breaks or you get another gun so its not a big deal if tinkering messes it up.

     

     

    I bought it second hand  looks to only have been used a couple times, no marks on it at all.

    Shoots alright from what I can tell.. sometimes bbs are curling a little as they leave the barrel.. haven't tried cleaning anything yet

     

     

     

    also something to add is I'm mostly going to be shooting semi so don't need any speed mods etc gun already seems to be fast enough on auto

  12. Hi,

     

    Just new to airsoft (never been yet) and bought a CM16 Raider (believe it's the original 1.0?). I'm wondering what the best bang-for-buck upgrades are currently? I've searched some topics but a lot seem to be outdated?

     

    So far I've added a cheap red dot sight. I also wanted to remove the front sight but appears to be moulded to the outer barrel? Apparently it's a multi-piece design.

     

    Moving forward I'm looking at sticking with a fairly robust/reliable rifle, preferably sticking with polymer so I can chuck it around a bit and not worry

     

    Is it worth upgrading? I'm looking at a foregrip, inner barrel, hop up and outerbarrel (or just the section I need to remove front sight).. anything else?

     

    I'm going to go for 1/2 games before buying anything but this is just what I had in mind.

     

    Thoughts?

     

    Cheers

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