LzChase

Hey guys, I didn't have a specific SF in mind, I was more wondering if any such group used the specific rail, the 14.5 SMR M-Lok or if it would be realistic. The inspirations were mainly Delta, Joint Task and DEVGRU. I was suggested by a friend of mine who used to be in the armed forces that I stick with 10.5 since I run a long suppressor. We don't use 416 in my country, neither do I believe we use suppressors, but I might go with this suggestion.

Attempts are currently being made to create a realistic replica of what a special forces member would realistically use, however information is limited. Various sources claim that a special operator is allowed to set up their weapon to their liking. Is this true? As seen in a previous thread, a 14.5 inch Geissele 416 SMR M-Lok rail was the plan, However I can't find any evidence of this lenght or type being used. 416 platforms seem in the wild usually have a regular lenght Midwest M-Lok or an SMR non M-Lok. Has a 14.5 ever been used? Or is it not allowed since it would be impractical in CQB?

I'm currently building around a VFC HK416A5 GBBR and I'd like to know if it accepts real handguards without modification or replacing any other parts. Will it fit the VFC barrel nut? I know there are purpose-made airsoft replicas, but I wish to use a real handguard for this particular project. The rail I'm hoping to use is a 14.5 Geissele M-Lok Rail.

Hey guys, your replies were promising so I bought one, I was genuinely surprised, This is by far the best sub 200 AEG I've ever handled, thanks for the tips!

I'd like to know more about this platform as it is the only MK12 Mod0 you can get where I live. What I'd like to know is build quality, durability, externals, finish and such. Internals don't matter as they would be replaced if I use one for a build. For those who don't know, Double Bell was previously known as Dboys.

Please note that I've never dealt with HPA before so this is a new horizon for me. The question is pretty much how small can an HPA setup be while maintaining ability to output at least 450 fps consistently. I put this here because I wasn't sure what category to post it to as it has to do with both AEG and HPA platforms. I'm trying to create a small HPA setup where the air engine installs to a regular v2 gearbox shell but has it's tube exiting at the back of the gearbox rather than through the grip.Please note that I've never dealt with HPA before so this is a new horizon for me. I do not own any HPA parts as of the time this was posted as I felt it was wiser to ask first. My wish is to build a setup using a smaller air tank that fits inside the stock of a Snow Wolf M82A1 so that it does not require a hose and is hidden out of sight. Another option would be covnersion to co2 if this is possible.

Short question, I'm looking for a weapon that is suited for simulation of a real firearm, My best guess would be VFC but lots of airsoft companies make Glocks. Does anyone know if there are aftermarket steel slides for VFC/WE/KJW and so on Glocks? Anyone think GHK will make a G19?

Some of you have possibly seen the linked thread. However I ran into a few issues and had to put the project on hold... again. Either way, I'm now intending to start working on a side project involving an SRC 1911. I've heard they aren't the best but this one will mostly be used as a prop. However when looking at one in the store, I've noticed that with exception from the Colt trademarks aquired via Cybergun, it looks, feels and sounds pretty much identical to a KLI 1911. Is it an exact clone, are they the same gun, or am I missing something? It's a "platinum" finish Cybergun/SRC 1911A1.

NOTE: Issues with phone. Pictures will be added as soon as possible! I've finally got the scope, I settled on a Hawke Airmax to make sure the recoil of the GBBR system doesn't cause issues. The problem is that the scope sits a bit too high even with low scope rings. I happen to have a pair of low Vortex Hunter rings with one having a damaged thread as a result of me trying to get the screw off to attempt adding a longer one. What I've done so far is the part that holds the screw has been filed off. The next step is to file the lug shape into the base. They will eventually be drilled and tapped to work with the STANAG System.

Both are good tips, although some of them have letters that were just printed on, no embossing or engraving. I can't use a letter punch on them as they have polymer frames that would likely just crack if I attempted it.

The safety symbols on some of my guns have worn off, where it should be labeled with a white S and a red F there is now nothing. Is there some kind of pen that could handle this task? I've tried a few markers but they don't stick.

I've done some experimenting with different types of lubrication on my VFC PSG1 (Which, like it's real steel counterpart, is basically a heavily modifed G3) to find out what would work best, and this is the results. Same might be true for other platforms aswell. -Charging Handle- Test: 25 Cycles •PTFE Grease works great but I've found that you need to use more than you should have to. •Ceramic Grease works great too, but it makes the whole thing look strange as this is a visible part and the grease is completely white. •Silicone Grease doesn't last quite as long as the other two but very little goes very far, it is also the cheapest. Winner: Silicone Grease -Bolt Carrier- Test: 50 shots Note: All tests were performed without a magazine as the magazine itself gives resistance from the nozzle passing over the gas seal. •PTFE Grease works very well and gives a smooth cycle. very very slight metal on metal noise. No gritty feel. •Ceramic Grease works exceptionally well in my case. No metal on metal noise or gritty feel. •Silicone Grease works great to begin with, however I found it is not as smooth as the other two when used on the bolt carrier. It has a slight noise similar to the PTFE Grease and has no gritty feel, however it feels slightly "sticky". Winner: Ceramic Grease -Trigger Assembly- Test: 50 Pulls •All types of grease perform about the same. Ceramic Grease lasts the longest but performs about the same as the others. Conclusion: Instead of a conclusion, here is an important part. Not Too Much! I did this mistake many times thinking it would last longer. Remember what grease is meant to be when the application is metal sliding against metal. A thin, protective film, and not a pile smeared on like you would find in a gear assembly. Just like with a real firearm, overlubrication will make your gun feel gritty and/or sticky and possibly even cause failure if taken to the extreme.

I own many GBBRs but I would consider my knowledge questionable.... So first things first, I bought some used VFC G3 magazines, but a question popped up in my head. It happens that the mags are modified by the previous owner for faster cycling and easier cocking by trimming about a millimeter away from the rubber seal that connects to the hop chamber. At the cost of like 5 fps and 2 bbs less per gas charge, it cycles better, smoother and even inserts easier. but me being me, always paranoid about breaking something, I soon questioned how good this really was. The thing is with less resistance due to the lower rubber, the bolt slams forward with what is probably significantly more force as the characteristic "BANG-click" a GBBR produces is no longer heard due to the increase in cyclic rate, and it all sounds like a single, loud snap. Will this break my gun? and if not, how much is wear increased? I run Nimrod blue gas which has about 116 PSI. All in all, I don't want to break a 1200€ rifle. Second, Am I using correct lubricant? I use a small amount of silicone grease on the trigger box as it is safe for plastic as any grease on the hammer will deposit residue very close to the plastic nozzle. I use spray silicone to lubricate seals and rubbers and a thin layer of PTFE grease on the bolt carrier and charging handle as I've found using too much make the cycle feel "gritty".

Yeah That would've been better but at the time I thought "I should post a warning so people don't go cutting up their hands" I had already filed it down.

Got a steel G3 or MP5? that's great! but please check your welds before you start fiddling around with the charging handle! My PSG1 had a small, very sharp spike created in the seam near the charging handle, luckily nothing happened, but I can see such spike cutting someone up pretty badly the way your hand slides along the receiver when locking the handle back. Be safe people! A small file and some bluing was all it took to fix the problem.

I'm currently doing a build that you can fin in my other posts, but I was thinking, a GBBR has a slight double recoil just like an air rifle as the bolt/piston respectively slams forwards, and air rifles are notorious for breaking optics. Some may find this question rather stupid since a real gun also has a bolt that slams forwards, Although the initial recoil/momentum is much greater so I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask.... We're talking about optics rated for real guns, not airsoft replica scopes. I am planning on putting a Hawke Vantage scope on a GBBR. It is not fully automatic and I usually run medium-low pressure gas. I was also thinking I could go all in and stick my best scope on it for whatever reason. ....so I'm asking for advice before I go ahead and possibly break a brand new scope (or a 1400€ hunting scope for that matter....) The Scopes: Hawke Vantage 3-9x40 Schmidt & Bender Klassik 3-12x42

2022-08-25 The Shim Update I have shimmed the butt plate so that it has tension on it when it is all the way in. This prevents it from moving around as there is no real lock to keep it in place, just a friction clamp. This simple change made the stock feel a lot more solid. I also shimmed the rubber cover for the butt plate itself so that it becomes ever so slightly wider on one side, as it was not pefectly aligned with the stock. It is still not perfect but it is better, I might redo this to better standard sooner or later. The factory grease was wiped out of the gun after a few cycles and replaced with fresh silicone grease, and the spring guide rod was polished. this in turn lead to an even smoother bolt with pretty much all feel of "grit" gone. I'm still not sure why pretty much all manufacturers decide to use a matte paint on the guide rods, it just makes performace worse.

Here I will post updates on the PSG1 build. If you follow this thread, be patient as delivery times on the parts are pretty long, up to a month for some. The Original Thread, Includes build plan: Note: In the pictures, the rifle is equipped with placeholder parts borrowed from my VSR. They're going to be swapped for much higher end parts made for real rifles to ensure that they're able to handle GBBR recoil. The first thing I did after confirming the rifle was functional and all parts were sent was to polish the hammer and bolt carrier to ensure smooth cycling. The cocking handle support was also partly polished, it is not visible when the bolt is closed. As mentioned in the previous thread, the hammer will be replaced with a steel version if one is made for this gun. They were polished using a small file, 800 grit sandpaper and polishing compound. In the pictures they appear matte because as they have a thick coat of silicone grease. Airsoft YouTuber BadaBingPictures ( https://www.youtube.com/c/BadaBingPictures ) discovered that the grip is fragile. While I really like this gun, I agree that the grip could have been better, the solution to pin the two pieces together instead of gluing them or making a "snap in place" construction is a bit strange. To remedy this, I reinforced the grip with superglue, this will hopefully do until I've tracked down a real wood grip.

Absolutely will, I'm just finishing up some fine tuning on the internals, I'll likely post the timeline thread itself in Guns, Gear & Loadouts very soon. Edit:

The Heckler & Koch PSG1, Präzisionsschützengewehr 1, is one of the most unique, iconic and interesting looking sniper rifles in the world. I have wanted a GBBR variant since long before one existed. The VFC PSG1 sells for about 1250€ in Sweden, And with it being listed as a limited production item I honestly did not think I would be able to ever buy one. I'm posting this partly as motivation for others who feel the same way. Today marks the start point of a dream of many years. I'll be posting threads from time to time about updates. -The Plan- The bolt carrier and hammer will be polished for smoothest possible cycling, This has already been done. The inner barrel will be swapped for a precision barrel, if there is one that fits that is A Harris bipod will be mounted instead of a Marui PSG bipod since it is both easier to find and more versatile. I cannot find any PSG1 slings for sale. The rifle will instead be equipped with a modified G3 leather sling. A Hawke scope will be mounted instead of an original Hensoldt or a Marui/Tasco replica, again because it is easier to find, more versatile and significantly cheaper. A fellow airsoft fan and skilled lathe machinist will be helping to modify the scope sunshade so that it can be used without partially blocking the cocking lever. A wooden handle will be either purchased or carved. The plastic handle is decent but on such an expensive platform i'd like a real wood grip. Shims will be installed to make forestock feel more solid. A mock suppressor, likely an ASG Hush XL or a M-ETAL Smooth, will be modified to fit the gun. It will simply slide onto the barrel and be held with friction using foam sheets. It is just for looks when the rifle is on display. Finally, if a steel trigger set is made for this gun, it will be installed when I can get one.

Here's an unfunnily funny story After acquiring a VFC G3A3 GBBR I was very impressed with it, there was only one problem. The bolt/cocking lever assembly made a horrible scraping noise and pulling it felt like dragging a sandbag along the beach. I decided to try solve it myself, there would be no warranty as I previously modifed some parts before the scraping made itself this apparent, although some was there from the start, but I didn't think it was anything wrong. This got worse and worse and eventually it felt more like dragging an anchor through gravel. Polishing the bolt and the hammer didn't do much, so I wasn't sure what to do. I took the gun apart again to polish the follower, when I put it back together the scraping noise was gone, and once the nozzle releases the bolt runs smooth and clean. And this is where I don't get exactly what happened, because I determined earlier that the scraping noise came from the bolt assembly and not the follower. Or did I miss something? I did notice that the follower had some sort of paint residue on it. I also filed out a small nick on the hammer that I don't know how it happened to begin with and repolished it, but I think it would have created a click or simply locking the bolt up rather than making a scraping noise So in the end I never found out what the issue was, but at least it is gone. Such is life.

Good point, I didn't think about that one

This laser box is used by youtuber Python in their reload videos, what surprises me is how incredibly low profile it is. I've been trying to find this model but so far I've had no luck.

You sir, are a lifesaver

I've started a VFC HK416A5 Gen 2 build, and so far everything has been going pretty well. The only issue seemed to be that disassembly is a bit difficult since the fit is so snug that I had to tap the stock multiple times for the upper receiver to release from the lower. This in turn is a possible reason for a real problem that has made itself clear. The castle nut is completely stuck. It won't budge at all, it's like trying to undo a bolt welded into place. Is it staked somewhere (and then how do I get it off?), am I doing something wrong? is the thread CW or CCW? or is there a pin somewhere? I'm half expecting the armorer wrench to break before the nut loosens. GBBR-type version.