LzChase

One of my friends found a used Marui PSG-1 which had a broken lower receiver. He's put a replica PMII scope on it instead as he's working on rebuilding it to resemble an MSG90A1. I traded him some pistols for the original scope, which now sits on my VFC PSG-1. But can I play with it or should I use it as a display scope? For those who don't know, even though I think most people do know, the Marui PSG-1 is an EBB with almost no recoil while the VFC version is a GBBR with a full size reciprocating bolt assembly made from a pretty heavy alloy. The Marui PSG-1 Scope is pretty hard to come by on it's own so I don't want to break it. The scope itself is a Tasco 4x40 dressed up like a Hensoldt Wetzlar scope, so it's a very simple model. It is not illuminated and has fixed magnification.

Short question, I need to shim my barrel, does anyone happen to know a barrel nut wrench that fits the VFC HK416 series? The barrel nut is real spec diamater, however an HK wrench is impossible to find around here. I would also like to know what the torque spec for said barrel nut is if someone happens to know. From experience, I have removed a damaged one using a pipe wrench once since it was already broken, and it was really on there. There was no glue on that particular one, it was just torqued down a lot.

Is there supposed to be tension on the sling when you hold a weapon using the typical C-clamp method? It makes reloading slightly more difficult, but if I make the sling longer, my weapon hangs too low for me to be able to do efficient pistol transistions. Am I missing something?

Well RCR123A rechargeable lithium battery. I know nothing about electonics so I'm not sure what this graph is saying but I assume rechargeable batteries, at least of the type I'm using, are not the best

I have issues with getting the NGAL to run. The laser is really nice and bright at first, but it only takes it like 1 minute to drop until it's barely daylight visible. It stays that way until I put in a new battery. I'm using rechargeable batteries, am I supposed to use regular ones? Or am I missing something? The NGAL is made by WADSN and is the aluminium version.

Yes like the reply above states, it is treated as blind firing. It's really on the borderline but in the end the staff decided to not allow it.

Interesting, can we get a picture?

Not quite. All parts are traced. I trace it like this since an outline like this looks much cleaner than photoshopping parts together. A slightly tricky part however is the scale. I add a properly scaled ruler to the workpiece as a reference.

Anyone else like drawing concept art to get a general idea of what a build might look like? I recently made this one for my current build. This one is a full concept art but sometimes I just photoshop parts together. It's a good way to see if things fit. Edit: The quality dropped in the attached file, here is a higher resolution version and a closeup of the Torch and NGAL, which I now see says "DFA" instead of "FDA" https://i.imgur.com/1an3EeZ.png https://i.imgur.com/PS2tzVW.png

Probably not, but according to this video, somewhere someday, it was allowed.

A few years ago, I and the other players that day found out that overhopping on purpose to get around a corner can yield hilarious results. Of course, we were told off once the staff found about about our new "technique"

Offset BUIS and airsoft guns is known to be a problematic combination. But just how far can you stretch it's usage? I've used them many times and they proved sufficient for my needs. I previously posted a thread about NGAL and BUIS. I found an offset BUIS can sit behind the NGAL without blocking the battery compartment so I considered dedicating them to the build. Of course they also look pretty cool, which surprised me, I expected it to look a bit odd with the slim SMR rail. Either way I conducted an experiment on offset BUIS and airsoft guns. Test Platform: VFC HK416A5 GBBR with Magpul MBUS Pro Offset BUIS. 345 FPS. Stock Barrel. NH - No Hop H - Hop Point Blank - Just use a rubber knife 5M NH - No issues. 5M H - No issues. 10M NH - No issues. 10M H - No issues. 15M NH - BBs start falling short, slight compensation needed. 15M H - Very Slight curve. Still hits a man sized target 90% of the time. 20M NH - Compensation is more significant, it can be done but it's rather unefficient. 20M H - Doable but sideways compensation is now needed. 20 Meters seem to be the limit for both, attempting longer ranges causes major problems with either trajectory or sideways deviation. Conclusion? For CQB airsoft canted sights can be a good choice, but as an actual backup sight for longer ranges they won't really help. So the statement that this type of BUIS is useless in airsoft is both true and false.

True, the NGAL light is surprisingly bright, however I'm also going for looks, it's a "fun thing project" like you know, sticking a 27 liter aircraft engine in a car because it's a fun thing to do but not in any way needed. It's inspired by special forces rifles like CAG and DEVGRU use. They always have a torch since a real NGAL is an IR illuminator and lacks a visible torch

I tried but with the NGAL on the left side I can't hold the rifle comfortably. I can't put it on the right side because there's a torch and a switch there

Anyone know if there are flip up sights narrow enough to where the laser on an NGAL clears them? Most of them I've tried block the laser and I can't put the sight behind the NGAL as it would block the battery compartment. Should I try canted sights? While I haven't played in a while, I used to run 45 degree canted sights quite often. Infamously useless at longer ranges when attached to an airsoft gun, I only used them in CQB where looking through an LPVO would restrict FOV too much, 5-15 meters or so.

I've seen many run flip up backup irons with LPVO scopes, be it real or airsoft. But is there any point to it? It only makes sense with a QD scope mount to me, but I see lots of them without QD mounts, including some of my own older builds as I tried to replicate real builds. Without a QD mount I can't even use them because the rear sight is stuck under the LPVO? And I can't really see anyone getting out an allen key and uninstalling the mount in the middle of a firefight, again be it lead or plastic flying downrange?

I was actually considering this, but I'm imagining this will look better (to me) when I start adding more parts, many of which will be tan. It's still a work in progress, my next goal is aquiring a scope mount for my LPVO, which is black, but the mount itself will likely be tan.

This is mainly a piece of info I hope people will find if they have the same problem as me, as I was unable to find any info online explicitly stating that this gun (GBBR Version) will accept a real SMR rail. I decided there was only one way to find out. Turns out it fits perfectly, like a custom tailored glove. No wobble, snug fit, bolt fits perfectly too. No modifications required. On the A5 model, It clears the gas block without any issues. VFC seems to have built this platform to almost full Milspec. The only parts that have needed modification to fit are a Magpul CTR stock which wobbled a bit, so I shimmed the buffer tube, and Magpul rail cover panels, where I filed away a very very small bit of plastic as they were not locking properly, but it was very little. Magpul ladder rail covers fit, real steel ejection port covers fit, Magpul MBUS fit, so do trigger guards, grips and magazine assists, all simply drop in and go. Midwest rails fit, as proven by YouTube channel Airsoft Headquarters. I assume any real milspec rail will be a drop in fit.

Hey guys, I wanted to see if there was a general opinion on what is the best material to protect at attachment, such as an optic or a laser box. While I'm currently not playing, I'd like to find out what I should consider for the future. I've previously had cheap off the shelf plastic screens on, but around 450 FPS, BBs start going right through them in my testing. All my main builds are GBBRs so I run real steel rated optics to make sure they survive the recoil, which is why they're quite expensive and I'd like to come up with a better way of protecting them. I'm also wondering if a piece of protective material could somehow be attached directly to an optic or a flashlight as an extra lens of sorts, like somehow building it into a lens flip cap. My main optic is a Trijicon 1-8x28 and I'm somewhat positive a high end scope like this would survive a BB, but I'm not willing to take any chances.

I need help. Both many airsofters and non-airsofters say white lithium grease is the best for metal on metal parts, However I don't really understand how to apply it since the bolt carrier has a rubber seal and a plastic nozzle. Even if the grease is not applied directly to said point, I can imagine residue ending up there with use. I want to keep my weapon as healthy as possible, and if WLG is the best, I I should switch to using it. Or am I good to go as it is? I currently use Tamiya Cera Grease for heavy wearing parts. Other people also mention Superlube and PTFE grease. I've previously experimented with grease types on G3 platforms, however this is an AR platform and I lack experience in what is the best grease for it.

A few days ago I noticed multiple HK416 setups on display at a store, VFC AEGs with replica Geissele style SMR handguards on them. This was one of the things that inspired me to start my SF style build. However one thing I noticed was that many of them had a Magpul AFG attached, the model without a hole in it, which is only available for M-Lok, as well as Night Evolution replicas of M600 Scouts sitting in Arisaka Defense M-Lok mounts instead of SMR mounts. The store clerk didn't have the keys to the display case and the manager was not there, so I never found out how it was done. They were mounted perfectly flush against the handguard, no adapters or anything visible. The handguards were original SMRs with threaded holes, not M-Lok versions. My best guess is that they somehow modified the M-Lok attachments to fit the slots of the SMR. Anyone else got a good guess or theory?

Guys, I just realized something regarding the original question - 10.5 is actually as long as I can go. With a longer handguard and the suppressor mounted, I can't access the hop unit, which is controlled via a dial on the gas block on this rifle.

Guys c'mon now, no need to overanalyze. Isn't it up to each one of us? As of for me, I want an SF style build because they look cool. And because I think special forces are cool too, although that sounds wrong in the context of armed conflict. I'm not a milsim player or such, I just like replica guns. That's literally it. While I want my build to be practical for the field, I don't even play right now.

This is some very interesting info. After further testing with my cardboard pieces, I decided to stick with a 10.5 for this particular build since I want to be able to manouver it to fire from any position quickly, such as from a window, over/around a cover or around a corner at speed while moving in a group, while also having full free movement with it in ready position without having it bump into anything. Finally, I discovered that the Surefire UE07 remote switch is too short for me to be able to control the light when it's mounted at the front and I hold the weapon in my prefered way. Moving the light back causes the suppressor and front of the handguard to cast a big shadow blocking out much of the beam. I do not want to modify the remote switch as they cost almost 150$ here. However, I will also eventually be doing a G3 build where I'll base it on a full lenght version. Perhaps I'll try it out in CQB.

Alright, I decided to do some testing. I made cardboard handguards and suppressors to simulate the lenght, then I made a makeshift CQB scenario out of boxes and furniture. I think I have to go with a 10.5 after all. Handling the 14.5 went pretty well, but with the suppressor attached, the total lenght from the receiver to the suppressor muzzle is almost 22 inches and manouvering tight corners starts borderlining on problematic. I'm not willing to ditch the suppressor since I spent money on having it cerakoted to match the Magpul furniture, So 10.5 it is.