Ragnaraz

@Adolf Hamster That was very informative, Thank you very much! So what would the best Key and hop combo be for the M9? I know it's a long shot if you don't use or have experience with the gun, but never hurts to ask. @RogerborgCould you translate that to Noob please? 😅🤣

I recently finished one part of my project on a TM M9/2F and have since been trying to learn a little more about other aspects and optimisations before taking the next leap. Stumbling across many different hop types, brands and degrees. Even the same brands and degrees, but a different name, like the Maple autobot and decepticon buckings. My google-fu may be sub par, or the info may be hard to come by. I forget the scales direction, but I know the changes in "degrees" is the softness of the rubber, changing hop efficiency and life span. What I don't get is the difference between two of the same like as previously mentioned, could anyone give me a bit of an explanation on that? Maybe a rough idea what would suit my particular pistol? I have seen you can get different hop arms, I'd hazard a guess this is a wearable part and they're different grades of metal for lifespan? Then, I saw "keys", I think I have seen "I", "F" and "T" keys for the M9. I read there were random types designed for older WE models and such, but it didn't actually explain what they're for/do and no shop has actually given an explanation to the parts purpose on their product listings. Reading it's for WE models While being sold for TM M9s also confused me more. Would anyone with the knowledge explain them to me and which is better and why? If the buckings have different nubs, does that effect the compatibility with the "keys"? I did read somewhere certain buckings were not suitable for S or R hops. They, by all account seem a lot of hassle and I am not thinking of doing that for the pistol. All and any info/ advice is greatly appreciated.

Update if any of you guys were curious. Probably did way more than was needed but hey ho, that's just what I do. Starting with ordering some Nuprol 2.0. Followed by 1000 grit paper, jewellers polishing compound and some felt buffers for the Dremel. The piston rails got disassembled, 400 to de burr the edges, 1000 to really smooth the surfaces and then the compound Dremel polish afterwards. I did the same to the seats on the lower frame too and gave the hammer reset pin a quick polish too. The arms on the DP nozzle copped for the same treatment as well, everything was cleaned lubricated and rebuilt. The result? The slide action is silky smooth, you can only feel the resistance of the spring, not the rough surfaces "grinding". Even with improved seal on the DYNA piston head the nozzle springs back easier because of all the shiny, lubed surfaces. The lack of resistance and the improved gas power gives it a lovely feel when firing, a bit more kick as expected of the gas and the smoother action. No locking the hammer and purging the mag anymore. It was a bit of a faff, oil and oxide paper everywhere, then flying felt and compound. Honestly, I loved it. Even more so because now it works as it should even with the upgrades. Noob 1, Gun 0

Holy cow, you have really gone out of your way to try to damage it there. I am guessing the key is in the maintenance and general care when using the pistol? I was tempted by the chap who said NP 2.0 should be ok. I want to make sure it's the pressure failing not the gun. With so many variables I want to test the pressure theory I thought it could be. If it still screws up, then I have other issues and likely need to change everything back and find the bit that is screwing me over. So within reason 2.0 shouldn't really be a problem for the kind of use it would be getting. I don't mind the maintenance side of things either, any excuse to get my hands greasy lol

I get a little tunnel vision when I'm obsessing with things, the comment doesn't just come from encounters here, I've looked about and asked else where too. hence my remarks. Agreed, upsetting people doesn't always get answers though... the thread took off after that. Have you used green gas on stock marui's? I want the Guarder aluminium kit, but I lose the SE aspect on the slide I laughed harder than I should have at that, I am grateful you didn't think I was being that way as I wasn't trying to be.

I apologise if it seems I'm being offensive or confrontational. I will say, the complexities between nerf and airsoft are entirely different, the margin for error in nerf seems wider and in a way most upgrades for nerf (generally speaking), wiring and power upgrades aside are pretty straight forward and if you have done it right... it works. Seems with airsoft even if you have the right part and have done it right... doesn't mean it will work without a bit of fine tuning. So upon more consideration, the chap who said Airsoft guns are a bit more complex... yeah they kinda are on the whole and can certainly be more of a pain to make run right with mods in comparison. I can admit I am a bit of a cock, I tend to dive into these things at stages not really designed for newbies. I lean on the community for advice and pointers. A lot of airsoft stuff, like my current predicament is personal to my gun and choice of parts. Knowledge on this particular route is limited. I have watched many Hi capa builds, where nothing ends up stock at all. There is much info to be gleaned should I have gone that route, I could learn by others on youtube, alas.... for the SE I cannot. Yeah, I have read the 144a, but so many people even right here say you can use a little stronger as long as you look after the gun properly. Edit: I am aware of TM and where they're from and the designs being based of what they're allowed legally to do. Like the law forbids metal replicas and such in Japan. I may be a newbie, but I have dome some homework 😛

Not sure if it's binding, I have a few metal polishing bits about, I intent on polishing up the rail arms and the nozzle seats. that way it has minimal resistance. the piston seal is really good, could that actually be a problem too? Not being a Skirm piece, this hasn't ever been knocked about. it's a show piece and target pistol really. Really grateful for the responses.

Indeed, I am UK based. I don't skirmish or anything, I just take on new hobbies from time to time to learn new things. Did nerf, felt like Airsoft would be a good one to progress to, and you can get show pieces and game replicas, so the Samurai Edge was appealing cause I'm an RE nerd lol Just wanted it to be more "the part" you know? What gas would be advised for a TM pistol? there are so many variants of "green gas" some only a little stronger than 144a from what I've read. I may do that all considering, I would like to test it out with proper gas before making any choices though, just in case it is because I'm using weak gas. The upgrades may have to wait till I get a Guarder Ally body for it.

@Shamal At this moment yes, people are helping and I'm grateful, but I've had to go all over the place and ask questions and occasionally get answers. The point I was making is on the whole Nerf community was helpful, new, old, custom or just advice. Airsoft is much more closed off. Your particular response kinda proves it. Loads of people do custom builds or "fix it" as you put it. Pretty sure I could find much more info on messing with Hi capas and Glocks. Likely people more interested in helping too. That doesn't just go for here but a few places I've looked and asked around. I'm doing this build because it is awkward and not a mainstream custom people do often. I'm new to it in general and I'm learning by doing as much of it by myself as possible. Probably not the best choice for a new guy, but you don't learn without a challenge. I don't expect everyone to hold my hand, I'm just glad Rocketdogbert pointed out the recoil for the hammer reset. @EDcase Sort of, depends on what gun you mess with and how far you take it. Different scope though. I've seen custom nerf builds with twin flywheel set ups on brushless motors (which need an andrino board programmed to control them) and flywheel braking, voltage meters, NFC mode selects, fire selects and probably more. That starts costing a fair bit too, much like airsoft. They even do custom brass breech HPA snipers, which is mental hitting 300fps with a bit of foam. I appreciate the advice, I'll get some more proper shooting gas in, test things out under proper pressure and then start reverting and see what happens if the problem persists. I'm still not sure what gas to get if I'm honest, seen a few threads on here saying 144a is all you can do with TM, then heard newer guns can take green gas because the piston rail and supports are metal... just be ready for the slide to eventually crack. Or you can't use GG cause the nozzle with break in no time (hence getting the CNC nozzle). Read people using 144a, Green gas in general, Abbey Predator Ultra, Nuprol black, some with modified guns, some with normal. I know some use different gasses at different times of year, some use the stronger gas all year. For a new guy trying to learn before he does things, the learning curve may as well be the Nurburg ring for how many twists there are depending on what you read and where. @ImTriggerHappyThat's understandable on the groan part, I don't want it doing for me, I just wanna mess about, make mistakes and learn. I can't really fully comment on that side of the community as I've not really seen that side. More avoidance cause as you say, I'm messing with stuff and it's not working out. Considering things are upgraded, what gas can be used in this one? Thank you btw I thought that, but I have the DYNA piston head, the seal is great. I'm guessing the weak gas and recoil spring buffer is thwarting me, I may be wrong, but until I get a can of good gas again to see, I won't be able to properly test.

@rocketdogbert makes sense, I just thought I'd play it safe. No disrespect to you personally, but trying to get info on forums can be like getting blood from a stone, or so much varying opinion that it's hard to move forward. I messed about with Nerf stuff first and all the forums were really helpful and anyone who knew something chipped in and such. With airsoft? hardly anyone helps. Considering I'm trying to learn to do these things myself, it's not like I can ask a tech cause me doing it is money they're not earning. I am massively grateful for the imparted knowledge here. if you had not mentioned the recoil thing I wouldn't have checked and figured that hammer rest wasn't getting clipped.

@rocketdogbert haha just the way I like it 😛 Ok, that happens when you don't push the little silver piece that allows the hammer to reset. I held that down by hand and squeezed the trigger in double action and it spurts and closes. When I slide the piston rail over the lower frame I see what you mean with the recoil, if it doesn't push it back far enough it doesn't clip the little silver hammer reset which would make it stick and purge all the gas in the mag. I'm using Abbey maintenance gas while I mess about, could it be with the mods that, that particular gas doesn't have enough grunt to fully knock the slide back? I was thinking maybe it was the piston head slowing the nozzle movement, but with a better seal it should knock it back with more force rather than less. I also have a 15mm ish buffer on the recoil spring too. My semi educated guess would be that all my mods allow for a greater shot of gas down the barrel and the DP nozzle spring would take more to close than normal too so maybe on the maintenance gas it doesn't have enough oomph to counter the increased airflow and greater spring resistance to close off the internal valve to maximise the recoil pattern with the slightly stiffer recoil spring. Does that sound about right? My thinking would be to get a more open valve like the Neo R to spurt more through per shot, more gas = more pressure, it would close the internal value and push the piston back too. Or use a stronger gas as it is to test that theory? Any and all feedback by to my thinking is greatly appreciated. Edit: the barrel end cap. I heard if you're gunna dry fire test it's best to have the barrel plug/ end cap on to simulate the back pressure of a BB. No idea if that's true or not. so much info out there that supports and debunks that. Some say dry firing is fine, others say don't... some say you can with certain guns.. or using certain gasses.... it's a minefield tbh, hence wanting to just get hands on and learn.

@rocketdogbert Thank you for the reply. I don't know if it would do it anyway but I took the slide off and squeezed the trigger, it stuck and dropped all it's gas still. That said I don't know if it would need some back pressure to actually close. It's confusing because it was all fine and dandy, then just decided to start doing that. I forgot to put in the end cap while dry fire testing it... could I have damaged something? The gun hasn't been used tbh, it's just a fun little project I started.

No one got any pointers what so ever?

OK, so I have been tinkering with my TM Samurai edge. Swapped out a few parts in the slide, haven't touched the lower frame, trigger or hammer assembly. The Mag has a Nineball extension which seals nicely, a Nineball inlet valve and top rubber for a better seal with a standard valve for the jet. After building up the gun and test firing it, everything works fine, then a few days later like today, if shot it seems to stick open and purge the mag of gas, anyone know what is going on? I don't mind stripping the gun and check, cleaning and relubing, just having a good idea where to start is handy. Edit: The other question is the nozzle seems to not slide back properly by the spring return, yet when the mag wasn't purging the recoil made it all move as it should. The nozzle is the DP alloy one, with the power up valve and enhanced valve spring. not sure if I used too heavy a lube or not, would that cause the purging? If I need to remove some grease then I don't mind, it's all a learning curve. Edit 2: Used a lighter lube to free things off from heavier ones, worked fine for a few shots, then decided to purge again. The nozzle makes a really good seal on the piston head, hence being a bit sluggish to move on it's own when moved out of place to test the return. can you get stronger return springs? Is that even the problem? I have the slide in bits, the standard nozzle would have the same seal strength with the DYNA head from a quick test. it still baffles me to why it worked fine for a while and now the mag wont close off properly. I can refil it and it holds the gas, its after a few shots it just releases all it's got.

Looking like it might end up being the mechano route. Most metal kits are M92F style lower frame, shooters design kits (if you can find one) are silly money compared to the Guarder ally kits. Its not worth the 300+ compared to the 100ish of the guarder kits.

I have a TM Samurai edge, has M92f aethetics but the everything is the newer M9 engine. So I'm guessing it's a TM M9 gen2, can the metal lower frame of the WE M9A1 gen2 be used? Basically I want to get a metal lower with the picatinny as part of the design instead of the addon parts to give the M92F that rail spot. Im after clean lines if you know what I mean.

I'm not all that fussed about full auto, just wanted a solid metal lower frame with the rail. Not after the full gun. There's TMs plastic version, or the M92F style metal, you can get a rail attachment for those. Id just sooner have the clean lines.

I was looking at stuff on Rainbow8, any other good sites to ganders at? It's an updated M9 engine, so im guessing its gen 2, does that work with WE gen 2?

I havent seen that for sale anywhere in the UK, just the Guarder kits. I heard somewhere the WE metal parts work on the TM as it's a clone, do you or anyone here know how well they work together, like fitment and quality?

Is it possible get the a metal lower for the M9A1, with the picatinny rail? All aluminium kits tend to be the M92F variant with the round underpiece. I would prefer a metal frame with that as the design if possible, i know there are clip on pica rails or the mechano types that give you a lower mount and sight mount too.

I recently bought the Dynamic Precision CNC nozzle and the power up valve for inside it for my TM Samurai Edge. Got a Dyna piston head on the way too, but I have seen a few of those come with a new valve spring for in the nozzle. DP actually do an enhanced spring for it as well. My question is, do I need to replace that spring too? I have tried looking around and I cannot find an answer for that question anywhere, and could anyone tell me what that spring would even do? I ask because I don't think my version came with the spring. If possible I'd like all my parts together cause I do not want to have to take the slide to pieces again if I can help it. I can thankfully change the barrel/hop and that stuff without having to remove the piston rail and all that jazz. Cheers in advance!

Ok... so depending on where I have looked at the time when browsing for parts the SE is meant to be an M92F, some parts for it are listed as such. Yet, it runs the newer M9A1 engine. I got a white PDI piston lid as well as a guarder enhanced nozzle. The nozzle says M9A1 on the front... M92F on the back. The lid just says M92F, but I've seen 3 types of lid for these too. The standard is a cup type, Guarder do an enhanced version of that. There's the one I got which is flat with an O-ring seal and a recess in the back of it, neither this or the original have screws. Then the final type which is like the PDI version, just with a hole through it completely and a screw. Honestly, it gets so confusing trying to figure out what parts to buy for it. Is it an M9 or M92F? Or an M9 parading as an M92F? All I know is it's a Tokyo Marui Samurai Edge hi-grade. Any and all help would be appreciated. A while ago I foung a site that actually told you which parts where compatible with which versions or the M9/2F normal or samurai edge version but I can't for the life of me remember what site it was 😅😅 Edit: It is also a pain for some cosmetic stuff too. Another reason its so confusing.

I want the Samurai edge because im a Resident Evil nerd lol But im guessing the TM version will be better, I've seen a few bits a pieces for them too. It's part for the aesthetic and part to wantnto get a target for the end of the garden as a hobby.

Hey guys, i am a complete novice at this. I decided i might get a decent target at home and have some fun with a Tokyo Marui Samurai Edge Hi-grade (what a mouthful...) I've done a fair bit of reading and watching, i was torn between the TM or the WE version (full metal temptations!) But everyone is saying WE ends up having a fair amount of issues that takes time to sort and generally the finish isn't as good as the TM. The WE is considerably cheaper though... Anyway, I digress. I like to make things mine, so upgrades and refinement is what im looking for. That said, i don't have the field experience to say what i can do to either gun. Another sway to the WE is the metal slide and such allows for green gas and generally won't break under use. I have also seen people say a few mods and you can use green gas in the TM. Im looking for a parts list of sort for either or both guns. Maybe a real world opinion on which might be better. Im familiar with most of the parts, just have no idea what set ups would work. I would like the outside to stay untouched as much as possible, say unless i opt for a longer barrel and hide it with a silencer. (Accuracy in mind) Also, this isn't something i plan on doing over night, with a rough parts list i can pick off random bits as i go along. EDIT: im not looking for a hand cannon perse, more a refined set of mods and lightweight components that would make the gun more efficient and little more powerful, reliable and accurate.