KirbyHCI

I think they used to be ok being all black and it was sort of standard, but now I'm pretty sure they're legally mandated to be two tone blue. As for OP; Legally you probably shouldn't have been spraying any part of it, lol. Not that I'm the police or anything. You could try re-painting the blue bits blue, or perhaps sanding the outer layer of added paint off. Or, just leaving it and hoping it'll all be ok. If it's brought up, you could always tell a little white lie that someone else did it/you got it second hand already like that/etc.

Sorry to double post, but I need help still. I could have just bought a new one of these damn guns in the cost it's taking to get this gun of my friends' running again. I'm spending as if I can get it working I have permission to use it as a loan gun to my friends. I despise electric guns/batteries/etc. - Always been into airguns so coming into airsoft I just stick to gas all around. The charger gets burningly hot to the point of a strange smell and the sticker blistering, and the battery isn't far behind. I don't trust this, it doesn't seem right. Do y'all think the charger is just busted? I don't want to buy the TM charger (and an adaptor since they don't do UK plugs) only to find it doesn't work too, or that this is somehow "normal" which I highly doubt. A suggestion for a charger that just works with minimum faff would be great.

Hey, thanks. After a little more research, measuring, eyeballing, and at least 1 purchase that's already being returned. I also now believe that adaptor should fit too and I'm thinking go for the TM battery, at least as the Ni-MH simple-for-now/back-up for later option, if no one pipes up here saying it wont fit (with the adaptor). lol. I do want to get a LiPo battery for it as an upgrade eventually so maybe I should just do that, but I'd have to buy a few extra things for that switch and I'd want to get one of those fireproof charger bags/boxes as I live in a rather small flat with lots of neighbours in close proximity so I'd rather be safe than sorry. Might be best for simplicity to just get the Ni-MH for now and switch later- Plus it might be good to have the Ni-MH as a backup even if I do go Li-Po after. A. Anyone have any advice/info on what can cause a Ni-MH battery to stop taking on charge/running out of charge quickly even after a seemingly full charge, so I can avoid doing those things. B. Any recommendations for if I did switch to Li-Po with I guess what would be basically the same set up as you, such as what charger to get, how you go about charging/best practices/things to avoid, what Li-Po battery itself to get. (EDIT: Well, you kin of already have, I'm just sleep deprived, will investigate more when my brain works better lol) C. If anyone notices any problems such as incompatible things, etc., please let me know! Thanks y'all.

I'm not too sharp after a few concussions and working stuff out isn't exactly my forte anymore. I need a hand working out what exactly I need. My friend has a Well R7 (MP7) and the battery has given up the ghost, what would be the best replacement battery, possibly one that counts as an upgrade? Would this work, or does it need the adaptor: Battery: https://airsoftdirect.uk.com/tokyo-marui-500mah-battery-for-aep-airsoft/ "Adaptor": https://airsoftdirect.uk.com/tokyo-marui-7-2v-battery-adapter/ And can that battery be charged by the Ni-MH charger that came with the Well R7, or would I need to buy the TM charger specified for this battery? It looks like the old charger should work with it, but I don't want to screw the new battery up. Failing this, what would folks suggest to get this gun operational as quickly and cheaply as possible, as my local airsoft site is closing and we want to go as much as possible before January 1st 2022. Excuse my dumb, it's not contagious.

Got myself an MWS not too long ago - First upgrade was going to be the nozzle return spring as I hear it often breaks running green gas, so I got the Dynamic Precision Reinforced Valve Blocker set as I'd seen it recommended a few times and comes with everything since folks said getting the pins out to replace just the spring was nigh on impossible... But getting them IN is proving just as impossible! How in the seven hells are you supposed to get the pins that hold the spring to the pieces either end in? They just will NOT go in no matter what I try. Pliers, hammers, you name it. Any suggestions? I also managed to bend the spring getting the plastic tube bit into the middle of it (my cockup, I was doing it while drunk and realised the method I should have used that would be less likely to damage the spring AFTER already damaging the spring). If there's a visible gap in the spring, have I stuffed it to the point of not wanting to use that spring? Also, in the current stock configuration, there's a strange ploing/boing springy noise when the plastic nozzle springs back into the bolt and/or when the bolt returns home. It suddenly developed after a night of plinking. Is this normal? I've totally taken the bolt/etc. apart and put it back together, everything seems to be in place and nothing seems wrong, it just sounds odd and I can't find a cause and the only other MWS owner I know says it sounds weird too.

I assume ones with individual padding bits that tend to cost a tiny bit more rather than a cheapo with a skate style foam all-inside lining would be better for that use-case.

I have a tac-on question that's somewhat relevant but tell me to bugger off if it's a hijack - I have some active earpro so I can still hear things but the pyro doesn't set off my tinnitus. I don't really want to have to fork out on another set to wear with a helmet. My head is about 58cm I think (my tape measure isn't very handy for heads) - Would a regular headset fit under most of the helmets suggested, or would I HAVE to splurge on one that can be mounted to, or converted to mount to, side rails?

Nice. Yeah it is one of the official vinyl ones. I might do similar some time, or just see if I can squeeze it over my primary goggles reasonably after adding some vent holes. I'd have thought they'd chip real bad and you would have had to put a layer over it or something, but I guess not! I might spray the front with some clear matte lacquer I have to protect it anyway, reckon that's a good idea? Although that might be just as bad for it... I'd love gas just for the easier pump action but springer is fine, less maintenance, and gets my off arm working out a bit haha - Also should get a rifle next not more shotguns. If I had bought it new I'd have gone for the one with a stock, may just get an aftermarket one if I can confirm it'll fit. Only downside is reloading often but that's a fact for any tri-shotty, last game I got caught as the last person on the team, mid-reload, trying to defend. The guy shot 3 times, missed besides a skim across my bare arm I didn't notice until later, but I surrendered as there was no way I could get a new shell in and cock it before he pulled the trigger again. Should be able to counter that now I have a sidearm, folks say never buy a used airsoft P226 but I couldn't help myself when I saw a good deal at a bootsale and now I feel confident in fixing the damn things up lol.

I used one of those masks for Halloween haha. Posed with some of my guns and gear but didn't use it in a game. How did you modify them? I'd be worried about it getting obliterated! Could be a themed game idea in there somewhere though. Unfortunately I didn't have the appropriate signature weapon for the character, but oh well. (Second finger isn't on the trigger, just weirdly wrapped around the grip/guard and looks odd lol) My actual airsoft getup is more along these lines... I keep using cheapo primaries and spending all my money on other stuff, so excuse the springer shotgun. Although I play entirely CQB right now so if it ain't broke... Also I really need to find the actual decent resolution photo of that, all I could find was this lowres one. Will edit if I find it. -Currently using a second hand Secutor Velites SII with a cheapo light and low power red laser combo as a primary, more than enough shells to not have to constantly refill them on the vest. -TM P226 E2 bought second hand pre-upgraded with a tighter inner barrel and maple leaf bucking (although I hear TM is top there anyway so may not do much for it), didn't lock back but otherwise worked fine. Changed the slide to a stainless coloured one but kept it plastic, replaced the BBU housing with a guarder lighter one as both stock TM BBU housings I have were slightly worn, still not locking back and I was hoping the guarder one would be stronger despite being lighter. Got 5 mags, belt and IMI holster and mag holders with the P226. 2 of the mags leaked bad but a quick disassembly and lubing up of the seals fixed that. One has a busted feed lip which will be easy enough to replace. -Goggles are legit Revision desert locusts, the fan version, with prescription inserts. I got so sick and tired of OTT fogging I always seem to suffer from I figured my main recent budget would go on minimising the issue as much as possible. -Headset is awesafe. No mic but I have tinnitus so I use them so I can still hear people but it mutes pyro a little. Not pictured is the radio setup that I can attach to them with a 3.5 jack and I use cheapo retevis speakermic as my mic, plugged into a cheapo Retevis.. R24s? I think. -Trousers from verusteleka.com (I love 'em) -Shirt some cheapo UBACS style shirt from amazon. -Vest and pouches all just cheapy MOLLE things mostly from amazon. I just had the rifle/SMG mag pouches on there for the lols, normally I'd have either those if using my partners MP7 or just the shotgun shell pouch and shell loops. -First aid kit is just a booboo kit with home first aid stuff for post-game nicks, cuts, BBs stuck in places. No need for a real IFAK with no medical training, but a realistic combat loadout should always have something that looks like one IMO lol. -Kneepads are alta, boots are from 'vegetarian shoes' as I'm a dirty vegetarian and won't buy new leather. They have foldable/removable ice studs and are pretty damn comfy. Finish wears on the outside quite fast though but then I always do suck at looking after boots. Positioning isn't final, haven't actually run a game to test everything with the latest setup yet as I've been busy or ill for ages. I was using cheaper goggles, a less practical shirt, a different shotgun, no sidearm for the last couple games. And yes I know it's an absolute mess of cheap and expensive crap. Edit: Not the same pics in high quality, but other closeup angles of various things (I like my loadout to be plausibly realistic over truly practical. Also bit more of a workout haha..), minus a radio setup me and some friends split the cost of.