Caber77

So after messing about for a bit with this again I think I've gotten to the bottom of the missfeeding issue. Turns out the feedlips on the mapleleaf bucking were protruding into the hop chamber just a lite too much. The bottom of the lip had curved/squashed upward ever so slightly causing the bb's to stick. Dropped in another bucking that I had (think it's a Gaurder 70) and the lip is fractionally shorter allowing the bb's to feed much better. Now just to sort out the timing issues for the drop in fps when on auto. Kinda going back to scratch and have a new cylinder, cylinder head, piston head and 16:1 gear set on order. Better bloody work this time!!

Thanks, no harm in trying that. Ive seen posts/comments of people drilling out the ports a little and suggesting it helped so may give this a go too. Ive got spare piston heads that although have fewer ports in them, they are larger so i guess i could try swapping out aswell before changing gear sets

Probably many of us in the same boat. I guess I'll take this one on the chin and just go with a lower gear ratio to get it running.... and start again on another one. I'll never learn, doesn't matter what it is, that the whole point of having a work bench in my garage and a dam comfy stool... can't help but tinker with stuff👍

In all honesty the the purpose of the 12:1s were to increase rof and see what I could get from it running efficiently but as time as goes and trial and error proves this ain't working I'm leaning more towards 16:1 short srtoked and taking one of my other gear boxes and trying a dsg for a higher rof. It's all very much a learning curve for me and I see/read so much knowledge on the forums that I try to replicate. I've done a few home builds before for my son and never had issues but then they have only been low stress boxes so simple to do. This has been my first attempt at a high stress/speed box.

Thanks yeah I totally get that about someone calling hits.... So possibly what I'm looking at is dropping in a 16:1 or 18:1 short stroked in your opinion? I wouldn't be opposed to that as high rof isn't the ultimate goal with the build, + 25 - 30 is sufficient to satisfy me so long as I get reliability. I think if anything, I want to know the cause of the timing issues and how to resolve them but if I'm gonna have to admit defeat then so be it. Don't want to drop to 7.4's cos just forked out over £100 on a few batteries with higher amp output to cope with the draw. New gears again it is then and try again...

So is there a possible solution you have in mind other than saying that would be the problem. I appreciate that it's an SSG build with high ROF rather than a DSG but I'm by no means the first to use a short stroked 12:1 gear set with an HT motor. I can't actually categorically say it's on 40 rps as its miss feeding, could be mid to high 30s...

No but tempted to do that, along with trying a different hop there is also the possibility of trying a different (slightly shorter) air nozzle just in case that has a negative effect for feeding on auto. It's like I need to go back to the drawing board, return everything back to stock and then replace internals 1 piece at a time until I find the root cause. I kow that sounds sensible but I don't want to start again haha

I've tried 2 tappet plates and the spring is cut by 4 coils now. ROF should be around 40 give or take depending how accurate my chrono is. Batteries are 11.1v lipo, 2600 mah 25/50 c so kicking 65 amp semi and 130 amp continuous but need that to cope with the amp draw the titan was reporting and the batteries getting extremely hot. Yeah cylinder is 3/4 ported, I'm half wondering if the shs piston head or o ring is too tight in the cylinder (got signs of scraping/rubbing) and if even though the head is ported to expand the o ring on the release stroke if the pressure against the inside of the cylinder is too tight on the back stroke and pulling air back on itself vacuuming inside the barrel.

HI folks, Im looking for a bit of help/advice if possible with a build that ive been working on. I posted recently regards my batteries getting hot and draining quickly and i got some sound advice that helped sort that out.. so thanks to those who gave their input. Im still encountering a different problem where i cant get a consistent FPS between Semi and Auto and drop by about 70-80 fps in auto. And sometimes a bit of miss feeding too. So the gun is on an M4 platform and consists of the following: SHS 12:1 gear set - now short stroked by 3 teeth (pick up side) LONEX 8mm SS bushings SHS 14 tooth full metal rack piston - 3 teeth removed to match sector gear (release side) SHS ball bearing Piston and Cylinder head SHS Air Nozzle Gate Titan Advanced ETU/Mosfet Guarder SP120 spring was a 110 in it previously SHS HT Motor Madbull SS 300mm 6.03 inner barrel MAXX Tracer Hop Maple leaf bucking Mags used... I only have High Cap, 3 x Lonex Flash, 2 x ASG Flash and 1 x G&G standard high cap. So ive tried all sorts of things to try and overcome this Gradually short stroked 1 tooth at time to slow down the pick up, giving the tappet plate time to reset, and now at 3 teeth less. Made no difference at any stage and have now fitted a Gaurder SP120 to bring the FPS back up (320 on semi) Sector chip removed, allowed consistent FPS at 320 on both semi and auto but miss fed like a bitch Sector chip in without trimming gave 320 on semi and around 250 on auto and random miss feeding Sector chip trimmed off completely on the pick up side, exactly the same as the above Tappet plate fin trimmed to about 9mm to see if it would let the plate and air nozzle seat quicker, still exactly the same as above giving 320(ish) on semi and 250 on auto. Its now about the same as a DSG fin Took out the SHS HT motor and tried JBU HT and an 18K G&G motor, other than the drop in rps to be expected it had no impact on FPS. I had hoped a slower motor would decrease the gear speed allowing more time for air nozzle to seat. Things ive not tried.. Sector chip trimmed on release side Could try a full fin tapet plate with the above combos again but i think im right back where i started and almost at the point of dropping in a short stroked 18:1 gear set and saying sod it but i hate to give up. Theory would have told me that adding a sector chip would allow the tappet plate to hold back long enough to resolve the miss feeding, then i get a loss in FPS on semi so it suggests it being held back too long and the piston is cycling either before the tappet plate/air nozzle is closed or its cycling and opening it again before BB has left the barrel. Short stroking suggests that im delaying the opening of the piston so should help the seating of the air nozzle Trimming the pick up of the sector chip suggests that it wont pull back too soon after piston released, keeping it seated for air seal Trimming the fin suggests that the tappet plate should be released early enough to seat before the piston is released and should have decent enough air seal Am i completely wrong or am i missing something real silly here?? Anyone care to comment?

Really appreciate all the info from Iceni on the batteries and will as a temp resolution get a bigger battery that will provide enough juice. I'm also in total agreement with Pinman that I need to find the cause of such a high amp draw. Considering everything is new I can only suspect it to be a combination of factors on resistance from gear ratio x spring tension putting stress on the motor. But, I could be completely wrong..

HI Asomodai, i honestly couldnt say regards the TPA. The motor is certainly maked up as being HT rather than HS. As mentioned in my earlier post though ive tried a few different motors and the results are pretty much the same regardless of which one i have in.. in terms of the battery. RPS varies obviously between the different motors ive tried. I can certainly try it with the AB turned off but i dont think that will make any odds as the TITAN was only recently fitted and i had the same issue prior to installing it. Before i put the TITAN in there was only a basic trigger switch and no mosfet. It could just be down to battery discharge i guess. Iceni, thanks for this on the batteries. gotta be honest and say the calculations have baffled me and i'd love to know how you work this out. Im not for moment questioning you on this, simply stating that i dont understand it and would like to know more. Im curious as to how you work out the ratings. Certainly seems logical that i need to carry a car battery on my back to supply the juice!!

Thanks for the reply, Ive tried using a mates battery which has a higher draw than mine, his are 30C/50C where mine are 20C/40C and it had the same effect of the battery being killed within a matter of moments. Are you suggesting I try something bigger than 50C continuous?

HI All, Firstly i'll introduce myself as i usually sit lurking in the background, scanning other peoples threads/posts and researching/ collating all the info i can to help me with my own project builds. So.. My name is Lee and go by the name of CABER - yes the Scottish pole and thats because im Scottish with a Polish family decent. Been playing Airsoft for a little over 2 years but not new to pew pew by any means. Have been seen on the Scottish fields for many a year but previously slinging paint - yes ive converted..... Also captain of our team - The Nomads (probably a few Nomads teams out there) but we genuinely dont have a home site and tour round as many Scottish sites as we can so the name is quite appropriate. Intro over.... My question is as follows and i'll try to give as much info as i can. I've been building a project gun for quite some time (not the first ive done) and im running into problems with 11.1v 1450 20C / 40C Lipo batteries overheating and discharging within around 2-3 high-cap mags on semi or 1 mag on full auto. The build I have in the GB; SHS 12:1 gear set (with sector chip fitted) LONEX 8mm SS bushings SHS 14 tooth full metal rack piston SHS ball bearing Piston and Cylinder head SHS Air Nozzle Gate Titan Advanced ETU/Mosfet Guarder SP110 spring SHS HT Motor Madbull SS 300mm 6.03 inner barrel MAXX Tracer Hop G&G Green cold resistant bucking The AEG runs at a steady (ish) 345fps and is averaging 47 (ish) rps, I have a chrono at home so able to test this. Checking the Titan on my phone im drawing around 94amps peak current, 44.5 on semi and 35.7 on auto so pulling way too much juice obviously causing the early death of the batteries. Done the same thing when using a team mates 30C / 50C battery - killed his just as quick. When building the GB i shimmed the gears starting with the motor height pinion gear against the bevel gear and went from there. Ive done this practice on every GB that ive build and never had any issues with motor height or shimming. and I'm very confident that had it shimmed very well. As a result of the overheating i decided to shim it again just in case i was a bit tight on the gears and this time ive shimmed just a little slacker and get a comfortable 2.5 - 3 full rotations of the sector gear before it stops. Actually used a different GB shell (JG reinforced) just in case there was any issues with alignments of the bushing too. Ive tried both SHS HT and JB HT motors in it along with a stock G&G 18k motor that came out my sons AEG when i modified that for him. I know (as well as i can do) the current SHS HT motor is good as it was only bought in February. Piston is full stroke and pre holed so no swiss cheese going on here and no short stroking either. Being extremely confident that my motor height and shimming are spot bollock on (please don't suggest this to be the issue as I've shimmed it a couple of time to triple check) and that the Titan and SHS HT motor were both purchased in Feb so I no there are no issues with wiring (previous basic trigger was on 16awg and still had the same issues) and I use only Deans connectors does anyone have any legitimate suggestions as to what can be causing the overheating of batteries and sending them to their graves? As a possible solution ive ordered a Guarded SP90 spring to see if the reduction in resistance transferred through gears - motor - battery has a positive effect on the battery life without causing a negative effect of PE. Obviously the titan has AB so should by rights assist with this anyway. If that doesn't help then I'm thinking of short stroking and dropping the 110 back in but don't really want to lose volume. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks