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Dawnrazor

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About Dawnrazor

  • Rank
    AF-UK Newbie
  • Birthday 09/06/1979

Profile Information

  • Guns
    ASG Steyr AUG A3, G&G FN F2000, ASG Hera Arms CQR, Nuprol Raven EU-18, ICS BLE XFG XAE Hairline.
  • Loadouts
    Full black BDU, Oakley Factory Pilot Gloves, FMA FAST Helmet, Bolle Tracker II Eye-Pro, XC301 Tracer
  • Sites
    FOB High Command (Rowley Regis) indoor CQB
  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    West Midlands
  • Interests
    Airsoft (obviously), PC and Console gaming, Performance PC builds, Mountain Biking, making YouTube content (Airsoft reviews, gameplay, gear, tips and tricks and video games), Military History, Air Combat (ex-RAF aerosystems and mechanical engineering).

Recent Profile Visitors

66 profile views
  1. The ASG one I got from JD Airsoft was only £7.99. I might have to give the prommy purple a go, maybe h-hop it or try a flat hop, that'll be something new to try for me! That's really useful to know, thanks, especially the pictures, I can work better when things have pictures! I'm simple like that. I may consider switching over to Deans plugs as well for the lower resistance, has anyone tried using XT-60's or XT-30's as an option instead because they have pretty low resistance? Especially the XT-60's I'm used to using. I mean a connector is a connector, just some are better than others resistance wise, my LiPo charger usualy gives me about 42 Ohms resistance on a Mini Tamiya and only 16 Ohms on an XT-60, both on 2S 7.4v LiPo's.
  2. I've heard good things about the Prometheus Purple buckings, but the tech at JD Airsoft said that the ASG 50 Degree one was better for my AUG. So I went with that, and it was cheaper.
  3. It was fiddly to get the old one off as the previous owner had stripped one of the outer barrel retaining screws beyond repair, it took me about an hour to get the thing out. Luckily I have some spare M2x5mm screws to replace it. Also it felt like he's locktighted the hop unit on so I had to use a slip-jaw wrench to pull the plastic unit off, (grab the hop unit with the wrench, not the barrel though as it's brass and you can permanatly damage it beyond repair as brass is pretty soft), you may damage your plastic hop unit beyond repair as well as the bucking if it's as tight as mine was, so with a bit of elbow grease and some de-greaser on the barrel to clean it up, the new bucking (a 50 Degree ASG Bucking) slid on fine, just be careful not to snag it on sharp edges and make sure the groove on the barrel is alligned with the line inside the bucking and it sits completely flush over the inner barrel and all the way down. The actual Ultimate Series metal hop unit slid on fine, I used a tiny bit of silicone lube, the thin stuff, and made sure the bucking didn't bunch up inside the hop unit. Once it was on and the guys here informed me that I didn't need the tiny locking washer, I just put a dab of silicone lube on the nub to keep it in the arm, dropped the arm in place, popped in the pin, aligned the hop up unit and attached alligning ring, then the retaining c-clip, then the hop up dial and then clicked the lock for the dial on. It worked just perfectly, I shot a few rounds through it and it was noticeably better, I think the old bucking was a bit worn and the hop unit looks really nice and shiny through the access port, more importantly, it seems to feed well and consistently, I have yet to dial in my hop up to get it perfect, but it really does the job and looks the part. (I did also mark in silver sharpie whick way was "up" on the locking ring, as I always forget and spend ages fiddling with it, then trying to zero my RDS, yeah, I'm that dumb, so if I can do it, pretty much anyone can!) Overall, yeah, it was worth the time and the money, plus the sweat and panic thinking I was doing something wrong until these kind folk here helped me out almost immidiately. So I say go do it, you'll notice the difference (especially if your bucking was as f'd up as mine, you could barely notice any hop at all), it's easy and works and looks great, I can post a photo of it if you like of it installed? It performs a lot better (well, in my case) and looks so much more premium than the stock black plastic one, so shiny! I hope that helps, I should do my gearbox today, but I think I'll wait until I get a new Main Spring and Element Silent Piston Head & Cylinder Set and maybe a new Spring Guide, saves me taking the gearbox apart twice.
  4. Thanks for the in-depth explanation, it makes sense scientifically. I think my shimming is ok, but I'll probably need a set of new shims anyway as mine are most likely nylon as well as decent bearings/bushings, I haven't tried adjusting the motor height yet, but as far as I know it's just a matter of tuning it from the bottom of the motor housing to allign it correctly with the first gear, (I can never remember the names, just where they go!). I was considering getting the Nuprol EU17 Raven with Green Gas mags, as it doesn't matter so much if you waste a bit of Green Gas and purging it after a game, rather than just having to bin a newly installed CO2 canister that you never ended up using, CO2 does give a better blow-back though. Just out of interest, why do you grease your mainspring and with what type of grease? A heavier weight 2HT Silicone grease or something thinner? Cheers for the advice, got some work ahead of me and some parts to buy and install, I'll definitely be looking at getting a new spring and a silent headset.
  5. The Ebay and Amazon price is pretty good, £15 is more than acceptable, especially with free postage it's still less than BCS by a few quid when you factor in postage. My AUG is stock gearbox (probably, seeing as the muppet who I got my AUG from stripped one of the screw heads completely that was holding in the inner barrel), it took me an hour to get it out with some careful Dremel work and a lot of torque on a flat head screwdriver, luckily I have around 100 M2x5mm screws for fixing laptops and Nerf flywheel cage motor mounts. I'll probably end up having to get a couple of sets of steel bushings for my other rifle with the almost identical gearbox, are the steel bushings expensive? It'll probably need shimming too, but that's not on my agenda right now, first I have to clean up the mess that is the gearbox in my AUG, I just managed to fit the new Ultimate Hop UP unit, finally! The pin stays where it's supposed to with the pressure from the hop up wheel and the nub, it's a noticeable difference just looking down the inner barrel and adjusting the hop, much better than the stock one and while I was there I cleared out all the grime that had accumulated from the previous owner's BB's (I think he was using under .20g's, shameful!) I tend to use ASG Blaster .20g or .25g BB's, like a real person should anything less is a waste of time in my opinion, I may be wrong. I'll have to browse AK2M4's stock as I may need some other stuff that'll cost me an arm and a leg, if not both legs from JD Airsoft, I'm not knocking JD, but the prices are really steep, and they don't even stock Krytac guns and their optics are expensive, I got a holosight from Amazon that cost me £20, they were selling them for nearly £60!. I may get my sidearm from them though, the Nuprol EU17 Raven looks good for £90 and it's full-auto capable, which may blow through a mag and gas fast, but worth it. Out of interest, would you go with Green Gas or CO2 mags for your pistol? I know Green Gas is within the FPS limits of my local indoor field, but not CO2, I heard you can tune down CO2 though, is that true? Many thanks for the links and helping me out with things I didn't even know existed, like the Silent Aluminium Head Set, does it make a real, noticeable difference to AEG's, especially bullpups where the gearbox is right next to your head when shooting? Cheers, Matt.
  6. Thanks, I'll probably find out tomorrow if theres any blackening on the contacts, the previous owner only used an 8.4v Ni-Mh and I use a 7.4v Nuprol PEQ LiPo, so I doubt there's any serious issues, just in need of a good clean and re-lube probably and make sure everything is working ok once I put it all back together. I might just try a dab of superglue on the very end of the pin in the new hop up unit, just to be sure. Awesome, that's great, some retailers charge ridiculous amounts, almost as much as the part itself which is really off-putting, I'll check out the trigger switch and I may not even need a new spring, it is a few years old, so it may have lost it's "springiness" a little? I'll try dialling it up with an allen key and look into getting one of those sound dampeners, although the postage is really high on those parts.
  7. I'll have a look tomorrow, today was fitting the upper reciever parts (still not finished) and tomorrow I was going to crack open and clean the gearbox and re-lube it properly, to wind up the spring tension is it CW or CCW? It's just an allen key you need isn't it?
  8. I'm going to need to open up the gearbox to clean the gunk out of there and re-lube it properly, the previous owner messed up so many things I have to fix, like stripped screws and just butchering his maintenence. I just run my ASG AUG A3 with a Nuprol PEQ 7.2v LiPo rather than the 8.4v Ni-Mh, it seems to work ok, apart from the problems i mentioned about it not always firing semi-auto, either firing a burst or not at all, but full-auto is fine. I'll check out the link you sent me though. Thanks for that. I'm not planning on doing any motor or gear upgrades, it does 21-ish RPS, although, like I said the chrono is a bit low, so a higher spring load might slow that down a bit, but it's controllable. I'll have to look into a Fet then, I can solder, so that shouldn't be an issue really, it's just fitting and placement. When I split the gearbox, I'll check the contacts, they probably have never been cleaned by the previous owner so probably need a bit of adjustment and cleaning. Do you know where I can get V3 contacts or dolly? Cheers for your help. I'm still undecided about my next rifle, a used G&G FN F2000 or CYMA P90 or wait and get a brand new ASG Hera Arms CQR with programmable 'Fet.
  9. Great stuff, thanks, I hoped the tension of the nub and hop up dial would keep the arm in place. It still suffers from the common problem of not firing semi-auto properly, it'll either burst or not fire at all sometimes, I'll crack open the gearbox tomorrow probably and have a look at the trigger contacts, that may be another fix! Anyone think it's worth getting a cheaper rifle like a used G&G FN F2000 or CYMA P90 (I just love bullpups and anything that doesn't look like an M4 or AK) or waiting a bit longer and getting a programmable MOSFET-ed ASG Hera Arms CQR for about twice the price and a Nuprol Raven EU17 GBB Pistol brand new from my local retailer?
  10. That's the one, the little bit causing me such headaches. If I push the pin through the hole (either way) it's really loose and just a tap and it falls out, will the pressure from the hop up ring on the arm against the nub provide enough friction to keep it in place? I'm just worried that under the vibration of the gearbox the pin will just slip out as it's pretty loose. It seems stupid to include it, I was convinced I was doing something wrong. Seeing as the pin sits completely flush with the hop up unit, would it be worth grinding a millimetre or so off the raised section where the pin goes through with a Dremel and trying to fit the pin/clip on that way, I tried using the pin from the original plastic hop up unit, but that just falls straight through. I'm not sure if I have any bolt or pin thin enough to replace it either, a tiny nut and bolt would've been ideal. Whoever attempted to change the bucking before me managed to completely strip out one of the screws holding the outer barrel on, it took me ages to get the thing out, luckily I have some M2x5mm screws that are a perfect fit for the outer barrel, which is lucky, I hate to see what kind of a state the gearbox (hopefully no more stripped screws) and piston is in, that's my next job, clean and de-grease, then properly lube all the bushings, shims and gears as well as the inside of the cylinder and check the motor is engaging correctly. I hate to imagine the state of the piston head, hopefully when I replace the nozzle for the Ultimate series one it'll be less of a headache, just slot it into the tappet plate, right? If there are any damaged or worn O-rings, hopefully I have some that'll probably fit. Working on this AUG is just killing me, it's chronoing low as well (235 FPS-ish), so I'll probably need a new spring, any suggestions for a spring to get it to 300 FPS and maybe one for 400FPS? Yep, that's the kit, that little ring won't fit on the pin, as the pin just sits flush with the hop up unit body on both sides.
  11. Dawnrazor

    G&G F2000

    What's the fps and rps on it? What mags does it take, standard M4 mags or proprietary ones? Will you be able to post it or send it via hermes? Cheers, Matt.
  12. Hi, I'm installing a new bucking and upgrading to the metal ASG Ultimate series AUG hop up unit, the problem is the little locking ring, (not the centering ring) the one with the three prongs in the middle, how and where does it fit? I thought it was supposed to hold the pin in place, but when I insert the pin through the hop up arm with the nub in place, the pin sits completely flush with the hop up unit, what am I doing wrong? The bucking is on, no problem, then when I slide the hop up unit on and attach the centering ring, I slip the hop up arm and nub into place and put the pin in to hold the arm in place, where is the little washer-type locking ring (the 5mm-ish washer with the three prongs pointing inward) meant to go, I thought it went on the opposite side of the pin to stop it from dropping out during use? Any help would be really aprreciated as I'm just scratching my head trying to work out where it's meant to fit. I've never upgraded a hop up unit before and there's no instructions on where it's meant to go. Thanks in advance, Matt.
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