[What HPA Tank & Reg suited for MP9 GBB use?]

1 hour ago, sjhirst said:

Hi,

I used to run that Balistyk set up on A WE GBB Scar and KWA AK47 so I think your mp9 will do grand.

The psi was around the 110 mark and was perfect for them.

 

Yes I believe the Balystik is defo the way to go for my needs. I've spoken to 'High Pressure Airsoft' about that and a line and tank also. Just waiting to hear back on a stock-check. I also had Tappairsoft confirm that the mag adapter has a US/Foster fitting 👍

[What HPA Tank & Reg suited for MP9 GBB use?]

8 hours ago, Adolf Hamster said:

 

the balystik takes up to 1000psi input (which is the output for most standard paintball type tanks, like the tippman) and can output anywhere between about 20-200 psi.

 

http://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/store/p73/Tank%2C_Line_and_Regulator_Package.html

 

that kit should do, although i can't say if the fittings they're using are the same as your tapp mag, although they look pretty similar.

 

Thanks a lot. That's been a big help to get me started. I'll clarify the fitting with Tappairsoft before I commit.

[What HPA Tank & Reg suited for MP9 GBB use?]

22 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

 

the balystik goes on a standard tank, and takes a standard airline.

 

the slp regs require a special tank but can take a standard airline, and the specific airlines are for the likes of tippmans that take the output direct from the bottle.

Thanks for this info! Ok so to clarify...

 

My GBB will be quite happy (with extra lubrication regularly required obvs) running a Balystik Reg attached to a 3000PSI standard tank with a standard line.

 

On a side note -  if the Balystik isn't SLP is it LPR?

 

[What HPA Tank & Reg suited for MP9 GBB use?]

Cheers, I figured I was on the right track with the balystik. What I'm just not sure about is putting together a complete rig for the setup I require (low pressure for GBB).

I.e. will the balystik work with any standard hpa tank or does it require some SLP specific type tank? And then do I require a special SLP line or can that be standard too?

[What HPA Tank & Reg suited for MP9 GBB use?]

Hi guys, I have a ASG/KWA GBB MP9 SMG with a Tappairsoft HPA "tapazine" adapter (see image) so just getting into the HPA side of things and need purchase advise about what rig I need. 

I'm aware that I require the final regulator output to be quite low (SLP?) (80PSI to 130PSI perhaps) and believe the Balystik HPR800C V2 Regulator might do the job.

 

Can you recommend a complete rig (line, reg, tank) that preferably is instock (in the UK) and also may be compatible with HPA (fusion engine etc) should I go in that direction in the future?

 

This last bit isn't the most important factor, just nice to have 👍

 

 

[Swat VTG longevity]

On 04/04/2019 at 11:47, proffrink said:

Never had light striking on the Dynatex ones but I've had creeping timers on them. I believe they say not to put silicone in them because they can mess up the fuse time, but if the choice is between light strikes and the fuse time shortening then I'd be putting some silicone spray in it too.

Maybe... the next thing to try is securing the internal casing from rotating so badly when I put the cap on.

I then need to experiment with just the 12 gauge loading cap not using the primer adapter (should have done this the other night at the field but fOrGoT). Presumably that gets the round closer to the striking pin (without an adapter getting in the way). I could also get a file to the exposed end of the primer adapter and take off a millimetre or two, this might allow for it to be screwed down more and get more strike pin contact on the primer round.

[Swat VTG longevity]

On 03/04/2019 at 16:42, DrAlexanderTobacco said:

Hi there,

 

I have this problem as well - the quickest solution I've found is to honestly give the loading cap / inner casing a massive whack against the wall, the floor, a hammer, anything hard enough to dislodge the threads.

 

It's not ideal, but you're unlikely to damage it other than cosmetically with this method. I haven't found any other fixes other than this, or not over-tightening things.

Yeah in a similar vain of not being too gentle I used a speed-clamp to hold it with force while I eventually successfully unscrewed it. Though your method sounds like it might work in the field 👍

On 04/04/2019 at 08:16, clumpyedge said:

Might not help overly with your issues but I found this while searching for someone other than SWAT that had serviced their own BFG's

 

First, how to get in to them. The metal top of the grenade is press fitted into the plastic body. To remove the top, warm the upper half of the grenade with a very hot hair dryer for a few minutes or place the grenade in a warm oven (100c). Once the plastic is warm it is a lot more flexible.

Remove the cap where you stick the blank and instead of a blank inset a long bolt so that the shaft of the bolt passes through the hole in the cap. Screw the blank housing back into the top of the grenade and use the protruding long bolt shaft to lever out the entire top of the grenade from the warmed up plastic shell. You will only be able to get the top off if the plastic shell is hot, if it’s cold it won’t come out and you risk damaging the grenade.

Once the top is off the internal mechanism is very simple. The issue with mine was dirt under the upper (smaller) O-ring. This O-Ring acts as a one way valve to help you prime the grenade, any dirt under it will let air back through in effect keeping the valve open and the grenade will fire prematurely.

I recommend removing and cleaning both O-rings and then apply a very small amount of silicone grease to them. You only want a very, very small amount of grease as any excess grease will attract dirt and dust and could lead to more problems in the future.

You will also find a small allen head grub screw in the nylon shuttle. You can use this screw to adjust the timing of your grenade. Screw it in (clockwise) to increase the delay and turn it anti-clockwise to decrease the delay.

Reassemble the grenade by again warming up the plastic body and gently tap the top back into the body. If the body is warm enough it doesn’t require much effort to get the top back in.

 

 

Source link - how to service them

 

 

Tagging people I know have them just so its in one place rather thank over numerous threads..

@proffrink @Druid799 @Rogerborg @FreeFrag.UK

Thanks, this information is absolute gold. Definitely makes me think it might be worth opening up. And therefore perhaps locktite/or similar/or pins can be applied on re-assembly.

On 04/04/2019 at 08:44, heroshark said:

bought mine about 6 years ago 2nd hand. It turns ,never had any issue. I've never really needed to do any maintenance on it. Spray a little silicone in see if it helps.

 

Yeah the mechanism seems low maintenance enough. But that fact that if I really tighten it down to get the primer as close to the striking pin as possible (to reduce the current light strikes) means I then can't open it up again with ease... kinda sucks.

[Swat VTG longevity]

Hi all,

Was wondering if any of you have any experience with issues around the Swat VTG.

 

The history:

Ordered in July 2017 from the now notorious S.W.A.T. Training Devices Limited.

Arriving quite sometime later with little to no communication.

Has had light use since then as a secondary grenade to my TRMR, and especially because I played mostly woodland in 2018 and used EG disposables.

 

I'm now back playing mostly indoors but about 6 or more months ago I noticed that the inner metal casing (inside the outer plastic casing) turns when you try to screw and tighten the loading cap back on.

With life getting in the way it's taken me until now to un-jam the tightly screwed-in top loading cap (via a clamp/vice to hold both bodies with force).

But obviously now I have to be weary of tightening the loading cap back on too much.

 

Conclusion:

After last nights game, the current status of the grenade is that It 'light-strikes' the primer (with loading cap screwed as tightly as I can, while the inner metal body annoying turns also).

With the same previously light-stuck primer still in the grenade for a second go, it seems to work, but is not consistent about always striking that second time.

Therefore it's unusable. It seems to be that the fact that the inner metal body rotates at all, is a massive design flaw - surely they could have put in some securing pins...

Anyway before I try to communicate for service/repairs with the non-communicative company, I thought I'd throw it out here to see if this is a common problem with a common fix?

 

Cheers