Opforia

Yes I believe the Balystik is defo the way to go for my needs. I've spoken to 'High Pressure Airsoft' about that and a line and tank also. Just waiting to hear back on a stock-check. I also had Tappairsoft confirm that the mag adapter has a US/Foster fitting 👍

Thanks a lot. That's been a big help to get me started. I'll clarify the fitting with Tappairsoft before I commit.

Thanks for this info! Ok so to clarify... My GBB will be quite happy (with extra lubrication regularly required obvs) running a Balystik Reg attached to a 3000PSI standard tank with a standard line. On a side note - if the Balystik isn't SLP is it LPR?

Cheers, I figured I was on the right track with the balystik. What I'm just not sure about is putting together a complete rig for the setup I require (low pressure for GBB). I.e. will the balystik work with any standard hpa tank or does it require some SLP specific type tank? And then do I require a special SLP line or can that be standard too?

Hi guys, I have a ASG/KWA GBB MP9 SMG with a Tappairsoft HPA "tapazine" adapter (see image) so just getting into the HPA side of things and need purchase advise about what rig I need. I'm aware that I require the final regulator output to be quite low (SLP?) (80PSI to 130PSI perhaps) and believe the Balystik HPR800C V2 Regulator might do the job. Can you recommend a complete rig (line, reg, tank) that preferably is instock (in the UK) and also may be compatible with HPA (fusion engine etc) should I go in that direction in the future? This last bit isn't the most important factor, just nice to have 👍

Maybe... the next thing to try is securing the internal casing from rotating so badly when I put the cap on. I then need to experiment with just the 12 gauge loading cap not using the primer adapter (should have done this the other night at the field but fOrGoT). Presumably that gets the round closer to the striking pin (without an adapter getting in the way). I could also get a file to the exposed end of the primer adapter and take off a millimetre or two, this might allow for it to be screwed down more and get more strike pin contact on the primer round.

Yeah in a similar vain of not being too gentle I used a speed-clamp to hold it with force while I eventually successfully unscrewed it. Though your method sounds like it might work in the field 👍 Thanks, this information is absolute gold. Definitely makes me think it might be worth opening up. And therefore perhaps locktite/or similar/or pins can be applied on re-assembly. Yeah the mechanism seems low maintenance enough. But that fact that if I really tighten it down to get the primer as close to the striking pin as possible (to reduce the current light strikes) means I then can't open it up again with ease... kinda sucks.

Hi all, Was wondering if any of you have any experience with issues around the Swat VTG. The history: Ordered in July 2017 from the now notorious S.W.A.T. Training Devices Limited. Arriving quite sometime later with little to no communication. Has had light use since then as a secondary grenade to my TRMR, and especially because I played mostly woodland in 2018 and used EG disposables. I'm now back playing mostly indoors but about 6 or more months ago I noticed that the inner metal casing (inside the outer plastic casing) turns when you try to screw and tighten the loading cap back on. With life getting in the way it's taken me until now to un-jam the tightly screwed-in top loading cap (via a clamp/vice to hold both bodies with force). But obviously now I have to be weary of tightening the loading cap back on too much. Conclusion: After last nights game, the current status of the grenade is that It 'light-strikes' the primer (with loading cap screwed as tightly as I can, while the inner metal body annoying turns also). With the same previously light-stuck primer still in the grenade for a second go, it seems to work, but is not consistent about always striking that second time. Therefore it's unusable. It seems to be that the fact that the inner metal body rotates at all, is a massive design flaw - surely they could have put in some securing pins... Anyway before I try to communicate for service/repairs with the non-communicative company, I thought I'd throw it out here to see if this is a common problem with a common fix? Cheers