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About King03sh

  • Rank
    AF-UK Newbie

Profile Information

  • Guns
    King arms full metal m4a1
  • Loadouts
    Very basic British dpm

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  1. Thats exactly the advice I was after thank you :-). So by my calculation the ideal ratio for 0.28g is 2.14:1 (based on 7.5(0.28^2)+1.55) Cylinder volume = 24023.57mm3 There for barrel volume should = 11236.47mm3 Working backward: 11236.47/pi =3576.68 3576.68/(3.015^2)=393.46 I calculate that to be 393.46mm inner barrel length with a 6.03 bore. Can you confirm if my workings are correct?
  2. Cool cool, so I could stick with a 370 and still add a suppressor with no negative effects? Im not wary of 6.03s per se, just read a lot of reviews that the 6.05 is more accurate at range than 6.03, most of my engagements are at range as I play woodland and have dodgy knees lol
  3. Thanks pal, at 6.05 im coming up at 1.88:1 with a 472mm and 1.97:1 with a 450... if my maths is correct. Think 450 is the shortest I can get with a suppressor on (80mm suppressor) for the look I want, recon that should perform ok? I could get that up to 1.89:1 with a 472 at 6.03 or 1.98:1 at 450 with a 6.03 but I didnt wanna go that tight
  4. @Hangtight do you happen to know or have available the dimensions for a v2 cylinder for doing calculations? My gun is still with my tech friend atm
  5. That was a fantastic read thanks very much... I expect your right about the wonky silencer lol. I have more confidence now in the parts iv chosen :-) Out of curiosity you say a 370 barrel is about right for .28 to .32s? I plan on using .28s and my gun is right on 345fps with a little variation, will I likely see a drop in performance with a longer tight bore? I was under the impression 450mm was optimum for accuracy and range provided correct volume ratio?
  6. Thanks for the quick response guys. As far as I understand it a bb traveling down a barrel rides along the top of the barrel, I had assumed that if the inner was to short and the bb had any hop on it it would contact the outer? Obviously my thinking may be flawed but a friend had this issue and it was rectified with a shorter silencer, im hoping to avoid the same as I cant afford to buy parts then have issues with them... see im a little confused with the cylinder voluming, I have a 370mm inner currently on a type 0 cylinder so my understanding is I can run up to around a 500mm barrel? Dont quite know why it has this combination, I guess for joule creep?
  7. Hey guys and girls, quite a simple question this time, how close to the end of the outer barrel/suppressor does the inner barrel need to terminate? Im looking to upgrade my inner barrel at the same time as updating the front end of my gun with a handrail and suppressor. I will be fitting a 16.2 in lvoa-c rail and a suppressor of currently undetermined length to my 14.5 m4a1 barrel to get that oh so sexy integrated suppressor look. my standard inner is 370mm, im thinking of using a pdi 6.05 472mm inner and a 107mm suppressor, this should theoretical leave the inner recessed 5mm in to the suppressor, should that be sufficient that bbs exiting the barrel won't catch the inside of the suppressor? Id rather not have to cut and crown a barrel if I can help it. Cheers guys.
  8. Thanks for everyone's replies. Iv had my gun looked at by someone more knowledgeable then me, the issue was the motor. Have swapped to a jbu high torque and solved the problem. My friend also swapped out the gear set for a 12:1 combination of shs and g&g gears, and changed the piston and head for prometheus blue items, shes running beautifully and I look forward to playing with it soon. Also the air leak was coming from the hop chamber, iv whipped the bucking with dental floss and its significantly improved. Now to move on to barrel and hop upgrades :-)
  9. I understand you scepticism, however im no foolhardy over enthusiastic teenager with a screwdriver, I have spent a long time learning each process before I attempt it with a logical and methodical approach, I shimmed the height of my bevel gear to the pinion, then each gear from there on, each has approx 0.7mm lateral movement and good clearance between each gear. My shim job has been checked by a much more experienced tech than me and given the thumbs up so im quite confident I did a good job, motor hight is a possibility but again it fired well with the downgraded spring hence my current confusion... im open to the suggestion I made a mistake somewhere but trust my friends assessment that it was satisfactory. Il be sorting the air seal tonight hopefully with an shs double ring nozzle n checking the hop unit, will of course double check my other work again n see if I can find any other issues
  10. Thanks for the link, I shall get one asap, I hadnt come across this way of testing the hop for leaks, il give it a go when I get home n update you. Piston seems to move freely on the rails and the guide is definitely seated correctly, I will double check everything again when I split the box just to be sure, probably something really basic im not doing right lol, its the first gun iv tech'd on so a bit of a learning curve
  11. Im using .20s at the moment n getting 250fps, o ring seals nicely, gives good compression but moves freely in the bore. Iv not measured the current tbf, just listened to the noise of the gun whilst adjusting the motor, where do you measure across and what procedure do you use? Iv not heard of current meter being used to adjust motor height before
  12. Iv spent a few hours shimming the gearbox and the motor is right in the middle of the sweet spot so Im quite confident thats not the issue, I do have an air leak from the air nozzle but have a double o ring ready to fit, cylinder head and piston seal really well. I am aware tho that my cylinder is a type 0 on a 363mm barrel so think over voluming is part to blame for the low fps
  13. Shimming and motor hight is spot on, I've tried the original spring and guide n it runs flawlessly, the m100 n bb spring guide works fine, just issues with the m110 and bb guide, im guessing the extra compression from the bb guide is to much for the motor to overcome or the battery is naff but thats just an educated guess at this point, dont have funds available to change both motor and battery atm so hope someone may have a better idea than me. Quality of the gun is really good apart from the faulty cut off lever out the box, just gutted its out of action again atm
  14. Hey guys, im having an issue with my king arms m4a1 I hope someone can help with. I brought my aeg new with an advertised fps of 350-370, I installed an m100 spring so I knew it would be field legal for my first game (dont have access to a chrono) whilst doing a few mods/upgrades inc radius gb, aoe and metal bb spring guide, this ran fine on 8.4v battery for the whole day but was a little disappointing at only 250fps on .20s. Subsequently I have reinstalled the oem spring but now it will not run on 8.4 nimh and drains a fully charged 9.6v nimh in 40 rounds. The battery is brand new so should not be faulty as is the motor (no identifying marks on motor), is it possible the standard motor is unable to cope with the increased pressure from the bb spring guide? Or is the battery likely the issue? Ps if an 8.4 nimh is installed it will not rotate the gears at all and the battery gets rather hot, there are no issues in the gear train, all move freely and are correctly shimmed. Any help much appreciated. Thanks
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