ASG Aug Ultimate hop up unit problems

[Iceni]

Bushings are cheap. £4-6 a set. But they do come in various sizes, and each gearbox can be unique. So measure yours.

Some would argue bearings are better, but that's only true in certain situations. For a gun you are using and want to run for as long as possible between service intervals go with bushings.

For a pistol CO2 - but make sure they don't shoot hot. Lots of CO2 pistols are very hot. KJ works generally have a few in the range that ain't going to break the bank and will be sub 350 on CO2.
https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/kj-kp-17-g17-co2-blowback-pistol-black


The headset changes the sound the gun makes. It doesn't make it silent. But it changes the sharp crack of the piston into a more manageable thud. There are other mods you can do to the AUG as well:

Shimming done well.
Motor height done well.
Silent headset (plastic type -- metal cylinder head).
Solid spring guide (solid brass deepfire ones are best but can be expensive £10-25 depending on retailer).
Well greased mainspring.
Packing the body with foam.

A decent suppressor.

With all that in place, you can make an AUG sound like a normal gun to the shooter. To the other players outside of about 10 meters, it'll be silent. I can shoot mine done like the above in the house and the wife doesn't know I'm playing with it when she's downstairs.

Edit:

I didn't explain the Spring Guide.

Mass is a critical factor in noise generation. The less mass an object has the more likely it is to transfer sound to the air, and the higher the pitch of that tone, like a cymbal. High pitch noises are easy to pinpoint by ear but do not travel so far in air.

Adding mass acts to absorb energy and releases the energy at a lower tone. The lower tone is much harder to pinpoint, and whilst the sound will travel further, it will be masked by other ambient background noise. This will reduce a lot of the spring twang, And a significant amount of the higher pitched tones made by the piston slapping.

Best way to understand is to think of a motorbike and a truck. Stood next to both the truck is louder. At distance, you can pinpoint the motorbike but will struggle to even hear the truck and have no chance at pinpointing it. Lowering the tone of the gun has the same effect, You can pinpoint the crackers, but not the thudders.

 

[Dawnrazor]

Thanks for the in-depth explanation, it makes sense scientifically.
I think my shimming is ok, but I'll probably need a set of new shims anyway as mine are most likely nylon as well as decent bearings/bushings, I haven't tried adjusting the motor height yet, but as far as I know it's just a matter of tuning it from the bottom of the motor housing to allign it correctly with the first gear, (I can never remember the names, just where they go!).

I was considering getting the Nuprol EU17 Raven with Green Gas mags, as it doesn't matter so much if you waste a bit of Green Gas and purging it after a game, rather than just having to bin a newly installed CO2 canister that you never ended up using, CO2 does give a better blow-back though.

Just out of interest, why do you grease your mainspring and with what type of grease? A heavier weight 2HT Silicone grease or something thinner?

Cheers for the advice, got some work ahead of me and some parts to buy and install, I'll definitely be looking at getting a new spring and a silent headset.

 

[Iceni]

I only grease the spring in the AUG for noise. None of my other guns have ever had the treatment.

It's used to stop spring twang. Only bullpups suffer this, and the grease just stops the spring ringing out like a bell.

The grease wants to be thick and sticky, ATM mine is coated in red rubber grease.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-CASTROL-RED-RUBBER-GREASE-100g-BRAKE-CALIPER-REBUILDS/390893301672?hash=item5b030e6fa8:g:AnsAAOSwVExasBWi

 

[CrackCommandoUnit1972]

Hi,
I'm installing a new bucking and upgrading to the metal ASG Ultimate series AUG hop up unit, the problem is the little locking ring, (not the centering ring) the one with the three prongs in the middle, how and where does it fit? I thought it was supposed to hold the pin in place, but when I insert the pin through the hop up arm with the nub in place, the pin sits completely flush with the hop up unit, what am I doing wrong? The bucking is on, no problem, then when I slide the hop up unit on and attach the centering ring, I slip the hop up arm and nub into place and put the pin in to hold the arm in place, where is the little washer-type locking ring (the 5mm-ish washer with the three prongs pointing inward) meant to go, I thought it went on the opposite side of the pin to stop it from dropping out during use?
Any help would be really aprreciated as I'm just scratching my head trying to work out where it's meant to fit.
I've never upgraded a hop up unit before and there's no instructions on where it's meant to go.

Thanks in advance, 

Matt.

How did you get on with the hop unit? I have an ASG AUG and was thinking about installing one of these. Is it any better than the standard hop unit that comes with the gun?

 

[Dawnrazor]

How did you get on with the hop unit? I have an ASG AUG and was thinking about installing one of these. Is it any better than the standard hop unit that comes with the gun?

It was fiddly to get the old one off as the previous owner had stripped one of the outer barrel retaining screws beyond repair, it took me about an hour to get the thing out. Luckily I have some spare M2x5mm screws to replace it. Also it felt like he's locktighted the hop unit on so I had to use a slip-jaw wrench to pull the plastic unit off, (grab the hop unit with the wrench, not the barrel though as it's brass and you can permanatly damage it beyond repair as brass is pretty soft), you may damage your plastic hop unit beyond repair as well as the bucking if it's as tight as mine was, so with a bit of elbow grease and some de-greaser on the barrel to clean it up, the new bucking (a 50 Degree ASG Bucking) slid on fine, just be careful not to snag it on sharp edges and make sure the groove on the barrel is alligned with the line inside the bucking and it sits completely flush over the inner barrel and all the way down.
The actual Ultimate Series metal hop unit slid on fine, I used a tiny bit of silicone lube, the thin stuff, and made sure the bucking didn't bunch up inside the hop unit.
Once it was on and the guys here informed me that I didn't need the tiny locking washer, I just put a dab of silicone lube on the nub to keep it in the arm, dropped the arm in place, popped in the pin, aligned the hop up unit and attached alligning ring, then the retaining c-clip, then the hop up dial and then clicked the lock for the dial on. It worked just perfectly, I shot a few rounds through it and it was noticeably better, I think the old bucking was a bit worn and the hop unit looks really nice and shiny through the access port, more importantly, it seems to feed well and consistently, I have yet to dial in my hop up to get it perfect, but it really does the job and looks the part. (I did also mark in silver sharpie whick way was "up" on the locking ring, as I always forget and spend ages fiddling with it, then trying to zero my RDS, yeah, I'm that dumb, so if I can do it, pretty much anyone can!)

Overall, yeah, it was worth the time and the money, plus the sweat and panic thinking I was doing something wrong until these kind folk here helped me out almost immidiately.
So I say go do it, you'll notice the difference (especially if your bucking was as f'd up as mine, you could barely notice any hop at all), it's easy and works and looks great, I can post a photo of it if you like of it installed?
It performs a lot better (well, in my case) and looks so much more premium than the stock black plastic one, so shiny!

I hope that helps, I should do my gearbox today, but I think I'll wait until I get a new Main Spring and Element Silent Piston Head & Cylinder Set and maybe a new Spring Guide, saves me taking the gearbox apart twice.

 

[CrackCommandoUnit1972]

It was fiddly to get the old one off as the previous owner had stripped one of the outer barrel retaining screws beyond repair, it took me about an hour to get the thing out. Luckily I have some spare M2x5mm screws to replace it. Also it felt like he's locktighted the hop unit on so I had to use a slip-jaw wrench to pull the plastic unit off, (grab the hop unit with the wrench, not the barrel though as it's brass and you can permanatly damage it beyond repair as brass is pretty soft), you may damage your plastic hop unit beyond repair as well as the bucking if it's as tight as mine was, so with a bit of elbow grease and some de-greaser on the barrel to clean it up, the new bucking (a 50 Degree ASG Bucking) slid on fine, just be careful not to snag it on sharp edges and make sure the groove on the barrel is alligned with the line inside the bucking and it sits completely flush over the inner barrel and all the way down.
The actual Ultimate Series metal hop unit slid on fine, I used a tiny bit of silicone lube, the thin stuff, and made sure the bucking didn't bunch up inside the hop unit.
Once it was on and the guys here informed me that I didn't need the tiny locking washer, I just put a dab of silicone lube on the nub to keep it in the arm, dropped the arm in place, popped in the pin, aligned the hop up unit and attached alligning ring, then the retaining c-clip, then the hop up dial and then clicked the lock for the dial on. It worked just perfectly, I shot a few rounds through it and it was noticeably better, I think the old bucking was a bit worn and the hop unit looks really nice and shiny through the access port, more importantly, it seems to feed well and consistently, I have yet to dial in my hop up to get it perfect, but it really does the job and looks the part. (I did also mark in silver sharpie whick way was "up" on the locking ring, as I always forget and spend ages fiddling with it, then trying to zero my RDS, yeah, I'm that dumb, so if I can do it, pretty much anyone can!)

Overall, yeah, it was worth the time and the money, plus the sweat and panic thinking I was doing something wrong until these kind folk here helped me out almost immidiately.
So I say go do it, you'll notice the difference (especially if your bucking was as f'd up as mine, you could barely notice any hop at all), it's easy and works and looks great, I can post a photo of it if you like of it installed?
It performs a lot better (well, in my case) and looks so much more premium than the stock black plastic one, so shiny!

I hope that helps, I should do my gearbox today, but I think I'll wait until I get a new Main Spring and Element Silent Piston Head & Cylinder Set and maybe a new Spring Guide, saves me taking the gearbox apart twice.

I will get round to this at some point. I was just going to stick a promy purple in it, but I might get the hop unit as well.

 

[Dawnrazor]

I will get round to this at some point. I was just going to stick a promy purple in it, but I might get the hop unit as well.

I've heard good things about the Prometheus Purple buckings, but the tech at JD Airsoft said that the ASG 50 Degree  one was better for my AUG. So I went with that, and it was cheaper.

 

[Iceni]

They Just wanted to sell you what they had in stock.

Prommy purples are premium. Very soft and very few people have issues with them. Just be careful as there are 2 purples. Mounded regular style and flathop with no internal mound.

That is something you can now start to play with BTW. You have a spare hop unit, Grab a cheap ZCI barrel and you have everything you need to learn to flathop.

Other premium buckings are the Maple leafs and G&G greens. All suit the UK climate very well and will still work in winter.

 

[CrackCommandoUnit1972]

Yeh, the promys are good. I always feel slighty ripped off when paying £15 for a 20p bit of rubber.

 

[L3wisD]

Yeh, the promys are good. I always feel slighty ripped off when paying £15 for a 20p bit of rubber.

I get mine from @ak2m4. Only £9.50

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/laylax-prometheus-bucking-purple

Bloody love the purple. I've tried others and always go back to the purple.

 

[Iceni]

I'll have to look into a Fet then, I can solder, so that shouldn't be an issue really, it's just fitting and placement.

This might help you when you want to add a fet.

This is the Xcoretech XET 304u unit. The big block of yellow heatshrink is a secondary set of deans to the motor (it's helpful for swapping motors and splitting the gearbox). I've taken to soldering the wires to the motor on the AUG so I can angle them better, and not have to worry about the contact pins getting damaged as the wires can pull on the tangs a fair bit if you get the wires in wrong.

The AUG is very simple to fet. It's mostly wire management, and you should be able to get a small contacts protection only fet to fit in the gap between the dividing plate and the motor.

 

[Dawnrazor]

Yeh, the promys are good. I always feel slighty ripped off when paying £15 for a 20p bit of rubber.

The ASG one I got from JD Airsoft was only £7.99.

I get mine from @ak2m4. Only £9.50

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/hop-up-buckings-nubs/laylax-prometheus-bucking-purple

Bloody love the purple. I've tried others and always go back to the purple.

I might have to give the prommy purple a go, maybe h-hop it or try a flat hop, that'll be something new to try for me!

This might help you when you want to add a fet.

This is the Xcoretech XET 304u unit. The big block of yellow heatshrink is a secondary set of deans to the motor (it's helpful for swapping motors and splitting the gearbox). I've taken to soldering the wires to the motor on the AUG so I can angle them better, and not have to worry about the contact pins getting damaged as the wires can pull on the tangs a fair bit if you get the wires in wrong.

The AUG is very simple to fet. It's mostly wire management, and you should be able to get a small contacts protection only fet to fit in the gap between the dividing plate and the motor.

That's really useful to know, thanks, especially the pictures, I can work better when things have pictures! I'm simple like that.
I may consider switching over to Deans plugs as well for the lower resistance, has anyone tried using XT-60's or XT-30's as an option instead because they have pretty low resistance? Especially the XT-60's I'm used to using.
I mean a connector is a connector, just some are better than others resistance wise, my LiPo charger usualy gives me about 42 Ohms resistance on a Mini Tamiya and only 16 Ohms on an XT-60, both on 2S 7.4v LiPo's.

 

[Nick G]

Deans is popular in airsoft is all, so if you get stuck at a game with a dead battery  there will almost certainly be someone willing to lend you one. XT60 on the other hand ? not so much. Great connectors, my RC Heli lipos are all XT60 , but I've never seen one at an airsoft game.