legendoftizzy
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- May 10, 2017
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Hey all I am looking at buying an AUG or a G36 need some inspiration and recommendations!
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AUG or G36
- Thread starter legendoftizzy
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Adolf Hamster
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- Feb 1, 2018
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aug because bullpupmasterrace
legendoftizzy
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- May 10, 2017
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What brand of g36 would you suggest? and can you tell me some AUG issues? thanks
Depends on your budget. best performing would be the TM EBB g36. Nicest externals would be the We or the Ares. JG makes a cheap one for 100 but its super reliable. Cant remember what all of the Aug issues were. just remember seeing a thread about them not too long ago.
- Oct 7, 2017
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Aug are cool BUT moody trigger mechanism can be a pain, never took mine apart so can't say whether they're hard to work on.
I'd go for the g36, re brand, I've only owned tm & ca 36c's, not ebb models, simple technology that works every time.
I'd go for the g36, re brand, I've only owned tm & ca 36c's, not ebb models, simple technology that works every time.
emilianoksa
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- Jan 25, 2018
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I think the latest JG G36c is one of the true airsoft bargains.
I've used them as rentals, but rentals get rough treatment. I'd really like to have my own, and I can't see the point in paying twice as much or more of the price for a "better" one. There's a very nice G&G for about £250, but something tells me it will go wrong faster than a humble JG.
The latest ones have improved polymer and, like the old ones, are usually good for a couple of years without any attention from a tech.
You can also squeeze in a 9.6 nunchuk battery which will give good enough performance for all but the most discriminating airsofters.
I believe Wolf's brother runs a lipo in his.
Less than a ton if you buy from Gunfire or TGC. And how many things can you get for a hundred quid these days?
I've used them as rentals, but rentals get rough treatment. I'd really like to have my own, and I can't see the point in paying twice as much or more of the price for a "better" one. There's a very nice G&G for about £250, but something tells me it will go wrong faster than a humble JG.
The latest ones have improved polymer and, like the old ones, are usually good for a couple of years without any attention from a tech.
You can also squeeze in a 9.6 nunchuk battery which will give good enough performance for all but the most discriminating airsofters.
I believe Wolf's brother runs a lipo in his.
Less than a ton if you buy from Gunfire or TGC. And how many things can you get for a hundred quid these days?
Get the one you think is coolest.
G36's are solid, and have a great modern army look to them. Especially if you go with Flecktarn to have that German army theme.
Augs are also solid guns. They get a bad reputation because rebuilding one is nothing like any other gun. Out of the box they generally perform well. And provided you are willing to read and ask questions then there is no reason to be put off the platform.
JG for both guns. Both are made out of plastic for 90% of the gun, and there are no real steel variants as the real versions are also plastic.
JG V3 gearboxes are solid. Have decent cylinder and piston heads, Decent gears, Ect. They don't have a mosfet but that isn't an issue. Run 7.4v lipo's and add a mosfet on the first service. Or do it yourself as V3 gearboxes don't need to be opened to rewire. It's just a case of cutting wires and soldering the new parts in with a slightly different circuit.
I'd want the long G36 to get a better inner barrel length.
https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152199208-JG1538-V2-Assault-Rifle-Replica-Black.html
For the AUG I would want an A1 A2, Para or commando variant. The A3 whilst it looks good is probably the worst of all the variants for weight distribution. This is the Commando variant, whilst is says Snow wolf it's a re-brand of a JG. Don't be confused by the short length. It has the same inner barrel length as the long G36!
https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152215959-SW-020T-Carbine-Replica-Tan.html
G36's are solid, and have a great modern army look to them. Especially if you go with Flecktarn to have that German army theme.
Augs are also solid guns. They get a bad reputation because rebuilding one is nothing like any other gun. Out of the box they generally perform well. And provided you are willing to read and ask questions then there is no reason to be put off the platform.
JG for both guns. Both are made out of plastic for 90% of the gun, and there are no real steel variants as the real versions are also plastic.
JG V3 gearboxes are solid. Have decent cylinder and piston heads, Decent gears, Ect. They don't have a mosfet but that isn't an issue. Run 7.4v lipo's and add a mosfet on the first service. Or do it yourself as V3 gearboxes don't need to be opened to rewire. It's just a case of cutting wires and soldering the new parts in with a slightly different circuit.
I'd want the long G36 to get a better inner barrel length.
https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152199208-JG1538-V2-Assault-Rifle-Replica-Black.html
For the AUG I would want an A1 A2, Para or commando variant. The A3 whilst it looks good is probably the worst of all the variants for weight distribution. This is the Commando variant, whilst is says Snow wolf it's a re-brand of a JG. Don't be confused by the short length. It has the same inner barrel length as the long G36!
https://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152215959-SW-020T-Carbine-Replica-Tan.html
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Start a thread on that, Tag me in it. I'll talk you through the trigger and how to adjust it. It depends on what it's doing but there is a good chance it'll be correctable without opening the gearbox.
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Rogerborg
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- Aug 22, 2017
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Based on one example of each, my £75 CYMA M4 performs[*]better than my £95 JG G36.
The JG isn't bad, it's just not as surprisingly consistent as the CYMA. Also, my G36 is only shooting at 315fps, and that's with the adjustable spring dialled right up, rather than the claimed 330-360. Might be an air leak, might be a bad spring, but either way, out of the box without modifications the CYMA was the better gun. It even had the shimming bang on. Shorter trigger pull too, and better semi auto response.
My G36 might be a bad example, I'd have to try it against others to see. But based on my limited experience, you can do better for even less.
[*]until I over-optimised it until it broke, but that's my fault, not theirs.
- Oct 7, 2017
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Its cool, long since sold it (still miss it though?) , just found the two stage trigger a bit "notchy" at times, sometimes the single shot took quite a squeeze but it was too easy to pass that point go straight on to full auto...... if I had another on id probe fet it for single shot only.
That would of been an easy fix. The secondary contacts needed bending a little into the gearbox to give the clearance between single and full auto. Chances are they got caught at some point and pulled away from the backing plate. Seriously a 5 minute fix. The long single shot was probably the gearbox not been fully seated at the motor end. The wires were probably in the way of letting the gearbox fully seat.
I set all my triggers to be single shot just before the dendent hits on the trigger, then all the way back for the auto. It allows for some error when you overshoot the dendent. Easy to setup, all you are doing is tweaking those secondary contacts and adding plastic shimming to the front of trigger to get the sweet spot.
For single shotting an AUG all you have to do is cover the secondary contacts. A bit of thin plastic taped in place would be enough. If you wanted it to be permanent then desolder the secondary contacts. You can remove those contacts for desoldering without stripping the gearbox, Or upsetting the loom in any great fashion.
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- Oct 7, 2017
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Thanks mate, if I get another on you'll be my "go to guy" for info, you clearly know your way round them.
To be honest that was my only issue with it, & I'm a big believer in "if it ain't broke dont fix it", so while it fired etc, that was good enough for me, so left it.
To be honest that was my only issue with it, & I'm a big believer in "if it ain't broke dont fix it", so while it fired etc, that was good enough for me, so left it.
Never played with a CYMA g36 so I didn’t want to offer an opinion on it. My brothers does shoot 330-360 though and there’s only a 2-3 FPS deviation
emilianoksa
Members
- Jan 25, 2018
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I've heard that some CQB sites won't accept them because, for semi-auto, there's always a chance you'd press a little too hard on the trigger in the heat of action and go full auto.
It's funny but I have never really taken to the M4 style rifles. I don't quite know why. I've started with an AK and the two other guns I have an interest in are the G36 in its various lengths and the Aug. I also like the look of the Sigs, and the G3 variants, especially the shorter barrelled ones.
It's a pity because the M4s include some of the best guns in the airsoft market. Can't quite put my finger on why they don't appeal to me. Perhaps if I tried one I would change my mind. The only one that has raised some interest for me has been the G&G ARP 556 - I quite like its dinky looks, but not the stock.
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I got a G36, only thing I don't like about it is the thin hard stock. Not very comfortable to shoot, as opposed to an F2000 or an M4
Rogerborg
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- Aug 22, 2017
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For clarity: I'm comparing a CYMA M4 against a Jing Gong G36. Based on the single example of each that I own, the CYMA M4 is slightly better. Either I've got a poor example of the JG G36, or I got a great example of the CYMA. I don't have enough experience to tell, although I will say that my workmate's G&G CM16 Raider whups them both, so I'm not really singing the praises of the cheap CYMA, just saying that the Jing Gong G36 has been a disappointment given the good press in this thread.
legendoftizzy
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- May 10, 2017
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- #20
Well I placed my order today for a JG g36K thanks for all the help people!
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