WE Glock Slide Stuck?
- Thread starter AshOnSnow
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- Thread starter
- #3
What kind of lubricant? Someone suggested WD40 Specialist Silicone Spray, I've also got some Pellgunoil by Crosman but I think that's petroleum based and more for CO2 seals.
It's only been out of the box half an hour
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- #5
Ah ok. I thought maybe the WD40 silicone spray was different to the standard WD40 bottles you get around. Will have to order some of the Abbey spray.
PopRocket123
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- Dec 12, 2016
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Wouldn't risk it I'm pretty sure it's still thicker than dedicated gun oil so may as well get a decent gun oil, either the silicone spray or a dropper. There are plenty of guides on how to strip and clean a Glock and everyone will have their preferred oil. I know when I got my WE Sig it was filthy internally. They always use way too much oil when putting it together at the factory and then depending on how long it's sat in a warehouse and the quality of the oil it starts to congeal. Always a good idea to clean a pistol as soon as you get it.
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- #8
Bought 3 little pots today: Abbey Silicone Oil (seals, nozzles, valves), Abbey Gun Grease (plastic-plastic & plastic-metal contact), Abbey LT2 Grease (metal-metal contact). Hasn't fixed the issue of the slide getting stuck, but feeling really carefully as I slowly rack it, the issue is actually coming from the nozzle being pulled back into the rear of the gun as it's disconnected from the "breech".
I will clean my Sig tomorrow - never opened it up properly before (could never get the barrel to come out!).
sp00n
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- Mar 27, 2013
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I wouldn't bother with the grease on the slide, my personal view is to use oil for 2 reasons
1 grease + dust/dirt = grinding paste (if not regularly cleaned)
2 oil only lasts a game day or so (if it's dusty lit less etc), this would mean you having to clean and reapply more frequently
i only use grease on items that are not easily accessible or difficult to access
1 grease + dust/dirt = grinding paste (if not regularly cleaned)
2 oil only lasts a game day or so (if it's dusty lit less etc), this would mean you having to clean and reapply more frequently
i only use grease on items that are not easily accessible or difficult to access
PopRocket123
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Yeah it's a right PITA and took me a while to work it out. The way I found to do it is push the spring guide in then disengage the barrel. from here you can then take out the inner barrel and hop up, leaving the spring guide clear to pull out and then the outer barrel. Definitely worth cleaning the inner barrel and getting in the nooks and crannies of the slide and rails with a decent cloth and little tip I found out recently is Q tips for the really fiddly bits. Then liberal use of silicone spray, again using Q tips for the slide rails and bits, everywhere there is contact. That includes the outer barrel, the plastic components of the gas system, not too much on there though you don't want it going inside, and the flat surface between the magwell and hammer. The first time you clean it it's worth reassembling it, cycling it a few times then taking it apart and doing a couple more times because there's always going to be bits you missed. After that before and after each game especially if it's raining should be fine but I still like to do it every month or so, just for the sake of it.
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- #11
Will give it a go tomorrow (come back tomorrow, come back tomorrow!). Don't have any silicone spray though. Got oil, grease and LT2 grease (I would think that LT2 would be most useful one for this since it's full metal apart from the grips)
emilianoksa
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- Jan 25, 2018
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Sorry to retropost but Abbe does not recommend silicone oil or silicone grease for metal to metal contact.
It prescribes its LT2 moly grease. Although some use white lithium grease instead.
It prescribes its LT2 moly grease. Although some use white lithium grease instead.
M
mtran
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Not sure if this was ever answered as it was an old post, but I had the same issue awhile back. Found the answer here in whiteash6's reply. Ordered 2 of the 3 items he linked, the 8mm bearing wheel and the increased recoil spring.
Not sure if this was ever answered as it was an old post, but I had the same issue awhile back. I found the answer here in whiteash6's reply. Ordered 2 of the 3 items he linked, the 8mm bearing wheel and the increased recoil spring.
The issue, as whiteash6 explains is the bearing having too much friction/resistance along the BBU and causing it to get stuck halfway upon return after shooting/racking the slide. That new bearing spins more freely while still allowing the hammer to reset. Not sure if only one of the above parts would fix the issue, but the higher recoil spring and ball bearing wheel fixed it for me.
The issue, as whiteash6 explains is the bearing having too much friction/resistance along the BBU and causing it to get stuck halfway upon return after shooting/racking the slide. That new bearing spins more freely while still allowing the hammer to reset. Not sure if only one of the above parts would fix the issue, but the higher recoil spring and ball bearing wheel fixed it for me.
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