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Need help with ARP9

Reece96

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Hi all, ive recently brought a second hand G&G ARP9, and for some reason the single fire is extremely temperamental, and after its been on full auto and back to single fire it doesn't shoot at all. I'm lost with what to do as im new to all of this. Any help would be massively appreciated.

 
Sometimes this can be sorted by flicking between full & single shot, there' a thread about this topic somewhere but I'm not sure where. 

If you end up chucking it in the canal, I have one for sale ?

 
Sometimes this can be sorted by flicking between full & single shot, there' a thread about this topic somewhere but I'm not sure where. 


that's a cure for the timing bug.

essentially, there's a point in the cycle where the trigger will go kinda dead as the cutoff lever is still engaged. flicking to auto overrides this and lets it fire with the odds being when you flick back to semi it's unlikely to have stopped in the dead zone.

this is why i reccommend against active braking mosfets if they aren't paired with precocking, as they can stop the box right in the danger zone. although that doesn't sound like what's going on here if the trigger is dead after a blast of auto.

 
Im just fully stuck on how to fix the issue, and I'm gutted as I've only just got the gun and wanna get myself started and go to some games. 

 
Sounds like it needs to be opened up and inspected. Maybe a faulty/damaged selector plate or fire selector cam?

 
Do you know if it's completely stock or if the previous owner tinkered with it?

Being an ARP9, I can see players swapping out the motor for a higher speed model to increase the rate of fire on full auto even further but coming at the expense of single-shot performance.

If you've got semi lock, one of the causes can be that your motor isn't producing enough torque on a single cycle to drive the gears and piston.

 
I have no idea of its stock or not tbh unfortunately, was thinking of getting a new battery and trying to adjust the motor height and see of that does anything ??‍♂️ if it doesn't, it looks like I'll have to sell it to fund something that actually works properly ??‍♂️

 
The best option would be to take it to a reputable tech near you or find someone trust worthy (and who knows what they're doing) and let them have a run at it. Some, if not most, techs will let you post your gun to them if you don't want to travel.

The ARP9 is a good gun, i'd suggest getting it fixed rather than selling it.

If you bought it online using paypal G&S, you could try pushing for a refund from the seller as it's not functional and I assume it was advertised as working.

 
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With that being said, does anyone know of anybody that would be willing to have a gander at it for me if I post it out? Its doing my head in now and I just want it sorted before I flog it and regret it 

 
G&G ETU moment.

Get rid of it, install a nice Perun Hybrid or Jefftron Scylla, profit. Throw in a Perun Speeder if that's your jam, or a Clicker if you want a less speedy boi trigger feel.

While you're at it, have the bushings, nozzle and piston replaced. Check air seal and replace piston head o-ring if necessary. Fuck off the stock G&G hop rubber and go for a maple leaf.

 
You could probably do this yourself. Like Skara said, it's highly likely to be the ETU/MOSFET which is very easy to change. If I remember rightly it's in the PDW stock tube thing, should be a little board (red I think?) and it's got some spade connectors at the end. The ETU++ is £44 from AK2M4.

I've had two of these ETUs fail on me - one in a ARP556 and another in L85. Both were fixed by using the Perun ETU++.

 
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Mine doesn't have the red board thing in the stock tube, I think the thing has been changed to a gate version or something ??‍♂️ 

 
Mine doesn't have the red board thing in the stock tube, I think the thing has been changed to a gate version or something ??‍♂️ 
That may be the problem.  Can you see any board in the stock tube?  If not, you probably have an ETU, which might have been set up badly.  If you are not confident working on it, you would probably be best advised get someone to look at it.

 
It's a long shot but can you find the original advert where you bought it from second hand? It would give people a bit of a better idea of what's actually inside the gun as it appears it's not stock - if they listed all the parts that is. The info would probably help any tech you end up sending it to.

Failing that, try getting in touch with the previous owner if at all possible and ask them what parts they changed.

 
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He said only thing he know if the MOSFET has been changed

I'm assuming there should be one of these in the stock tube? (But there isn't) do I need to buy this and hope that would sort the issue out?

View attachment 150185

 
He said only thing he know if the MOSFET has been changed

I'm assuming there should be one of these in the stock tube? (But there isn't) do I need to buy this and hope that would sort the issue out?

View attachment 150185
If there is nothing in the stock tube and it is still working, albeit with a fault, buying one of those is not going to solve the problem.  If you are not confident about opening the gearbox, you need to get someone to do it for you.

Can you take a photo down the stock tube and post it here?  When you connect a battery, does the gun bleep?

 
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I'll take some photos after work and post them, it does beep when a battery is connected, but also its just two wires connected to a deans connector in the stock tube 

 
I'll take some photos after work and post them, it does beep when a battery is connected, but also its just two wires connected to a deans connector in the stock tube 
Are the wires thick and bendy or are they thin and rigid?

 
It probably has an ETU in it; if so, the problems that you are having may be due to that not being set up properly.

 
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