THE TM MWS thread

[TadsJ2]

Hey again guys, sooo i am trying to punch out the nozzle return spring's pin, any suggestions? I did the side where there is plastic nozzle stopper (i dunno how that part is called) quite easily, but now having problems with the metal sided one.... any tips and tricks?

 

[ajumma]

Hey again guys, sooo i am trying to punch out the nozzle return spring's pin, any suggestions? I did the side where there is plastic nozzle stopper (i dunno how that part is called) quite easily, but now having problems with the metal sided one.... any tips and tricks?

Ive had huge issues in the past getting the damn pin out of the metal side of the nozzle spring, I destroyed my stock nozzle spring doing it. The time I did manage to get it out, I set the metal part onto polystyrene that was inside my MTW box, then hammered that shit with a screwdriver with an appropriately sized Allen key head on it (I don’t own a set of punches, fight me).

 

[TadsJ2]

yes, i didnt destroy mine, i have an additional angry gun V2 nozzle set, so i've just hammered the shit out of that one, replaced the nozzle spring, i've put the plastic nozzle stopper from TM on the other end and just put everything inside with a stronger nozzle return spring inside TM stock nozzle, will see how it works now

 

[TadsJ2]

now i cant take off the barrel nut of the MTR16 to change the inner barrel, i am really getting frustrated with this gun

 

[Whereismyhammer]

now i cant take off the barrel nut of the MTR16 to change the inner barrel, i am really getting frustrated with this gun

It’s a difficult job to remove as it is secured with lock-tight. I used a blowtorch and an armours wrench + a vice to remove it. 

 

[TadsJ2]

dont have a vice, have a blowtorch and i now have to order additional tool for it  

 This tool probably wont do the job ?

 

[Whereismyhammer]

dont have a vice, have a blowtorch and i now have to order additional tool for it   This tool probably wont do the job ?

I used this as it’s really beefy https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/gbase-nb-ar15m4-armorers-multi-function-wrench-black

 

[Wild Weasel]

What is the current hop rubber of choice for the MWS these days?  I really rate the blue Modify X, it’s very accurate, but they’re costing me £12 a go and they don’t last 5 minutes.  I put a brand new one in, and just 1000 bb’s later it is chewed up to buggery, and all over the place. Talk about the light that shines twice as brightly burns half as long. 

I think it’s just too soft, and is designed to be used in VSR type guns, which would never fire 1000 bb’s in 2 weeks.

I’m running a 303x 6.02mm inner barrel, with a wide, open window and Dave’s nub. 

I've just ordered a 65° one of these are they the same?

 

[SSPKali]

Dynamic Precision MWS rocket valve test.

Purchsed from the great people at Fire Support. 

https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/dynamic-precision-enhanced-nozzle-valve-for-marui-m4a1-mws

It looks a lot like the polymer TM one but is made from Aluminium.

It fits nicely in the nozzle and works with the TM spring.

Testing it in direct comparison to the TM set up with ASG gas and 0.30g BBs there was an average gain of 8fps, but a reduction in fluctuations between shots (+/-4fps, vs +/-7fps with the TM valve)

Switching to the stronger DP spring gave the expected jump in output, raising to an average of 293fps (285fps limit on most fields with 0.30g)

Bottom line is that it is probably easier to get one of these than the TM one, and in doing so it won't change the gun too much.

I plan to fix a thin disc to the back to try and drop the fps while using the stronger spring so I can have this in the DP lightweight bolt I have spare.

 

[Captain Darling]

I've just ordered a 65° one of these are they the same?

Yes, that’s the one.  It might be better in summer, as I’m currently putting all sorts of winter gas through mine which might be smashing it a bit. Nuprol 3.0 and 4.0, Guarder black, MAPP - I think these add extra wear.

I stripped it down today, and gave it a really good clean with IPA, it’s actually not in that bad condition. I think they’re probably good for 2000 to 3000 thousand shots. 
 

I’ve stuck a Laylax purple in for now, will do some range and accuracy tests tomorrow.  Weirdly I’ve gained about 70 FPS!  Must just be a better air seal with the nozzle and less friction on the bb due to less surface contact.  

 

[gunbod007]

I think we can all agree that Angry Gun QC is very hit and miss! 

My clone Surefire suppressor from them is fantastic and I haven't had any issues with it, and works perfectly with my Acetech Lighter-S tracer unit.

The Milspec Buffer Tube also fitted without issue and definitely took the slop out of my Car-15 Stock. 

However their Maritime Bolt Catch is utter garbage! I initially fitted it to my URGI-1 build as it's part of the Geissele package.

But with the bcg in the rearward position as soon as you press the mag release to put in a fresh one, it touches the bolt catch on the other side and throws the bcg forward... ? 

I had to use a dremmel and remove material from the underside so it no longer made contact...

Mate of mine just bought the l119a2 ambi mag release from them for his mws and it flat out doesn't work whatsoever, there's not enough material to hold the mag in place. 

I mean look at their latest release, the A2 Outer barrels...

Who releases a product, that is not fit for purpose and then announces that with a post on Facebook and tells everyone how much material they need to remove with a file!? 

To make their shitty product fit! ?

Oh those pictures about the A2 barrel were actually from my complaint regarding my barrel

 

[ElserDwyer]

This is an amazing thread and I've read almost every page (definitely need to reread some though).  Just wished I kept up with this after November because I foolishly though the MWS mk18 would just be a great way to not have to buy a new rail and the works because it would be all convenient there in one package!  So fast forward to now when I excitedly managed to get one and started catching up on things and now here I am realizing I made a boo boo.  On the one plus side Alphabear shared the info on a tool for the barrel nut so that's on order but now comes the questions.  Hopefully it wasn't already addressed and I foolishly glossed over it.

1. Is there something I can replace the barrel nut with after I manage to dislodge it or is it going to be the same process for inner barrel removal, minus the loctite?  Granted it should be not as bad once the loctite is removed.  Seems important because of basic maintenance.

2. And really more a cosmetic question, but am I crazy in thinking the DD rail is not nearly as tan/FDE/bronze as it should be?  Mine is practically black.  Any clue as to why that is?  

Looking forward to finally getting a chance to shoot it.  Thanks!

 

[Davegolf]

Welcome!

Dont 100% quote me on this, I’m sure other MK18 owners will be able to confirm/deny as I have not had one in my hands yet...

Theoretically you could replace the barrel nut and whole rail system with any other MWS compatible aftermarket rail.

But you have already got it so i would just buy the proper tool, and maybe get the rail Cerakote’d in Midnight Bronze ?

 

[TadsJ2]

I used this as it’s really beefy https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/gbase-nb-ar15m4-armorers-multi-function-wrench-black

Yeah, ordered this then, though it was cheaper for me to do it from Aliexpress than them...

It's a shame: I will be able to use this gun in the field this weekend once again, and I already received 410mm Crazy jet and nub + rubber and was prepared to upgrade but now I cant do it until i get this tool  kinda frustrating...  

One more question, do you really need a vice for this job? Or I maybe can get away with heating barrel nut and trying to unscrew it ?

This is an amazing thread and I've read almost every page (definitely need to reread some though).  Just wished I kept up with this after November because I foolishly though the MWS mk18 would just be a great way to not have to buy a new rail and the works because it would be all convenient there in one package!  So fast forward to now when I excitedly managed to get one and started catching up on things and now here I am realizing I made a boo boo.  On the one plus side Alphabear shared the info on a tool for the barrel nut so that's on order but now comes the questions.  Hopefully it wasn't already addressed and I foolishly glossed over it.

1. Is there something I can replace the barrel nut with after I manage to dislodge it or is it going to be the same process for inner barrel removal, minus the loctite?  Granted it should be not as bad once the loctite is removed.  Seems important because of basic maintenance.

2. And really more a cosmetic question, but am I crazy in thinking the DD rail is not nearly as tan/FDE/bronze as it should be?  Mine is practically black.  Any clue as to why that is?  

Looking forward to finally getting a chance to shoot it.  Thanks!

Yes, you and me both, I was amazed by the information that is given here! One of the reasons I went with TM M4 platform instead of GHK

 

[Whereismyhammer]

One more question, do you really need a vice for this job? Or I maybe can get away with heating barrel nut and trying to unscrew it ?

I don’t know if you need one you might be strong enough to do it just with the wrench like a normal AR that hasn’t got lock tight in it. I don’t know if they all use the same amount of lock tight on each gun. 
 

but on mine I couldn’t do it without fixing the gun in position. But when you have done it once and broken the lock tight you don’t ever need the vice or blowtorch again. You can just use the wrench on its own after that. 

 

[PewPewLoki]

Hey folks, not sure if this has already come up in this thread (I searched and couldn't find anything, and apologies, but I couldn't bring myself to read through all 190 pages of posts) but a quick random one for anyone looking to buy (or having bought and regretted buying) the SAA/Ace 1 Arms PMags:

Have you noticed yours are leaky AF? Mine were. Could barely rattle off 4 shots. So I bought the G&P 'stendos, which seem decent, but still not amazing. However, if you open up the SAA mags and take the release valves out, you'll not only notice that they're standard TM-spec 1911/MWS valves (easily replaced/repaired), but you'll probably also find a seal rattling around the inside of your mag. As you can see from the attached picture, not only have they completely come off the valves, but they're also flat and hard and torn. Replace these with TM or LPE or even WE/Army, and you'll have a way better time with them.

Not sure where SAA/Ace 1 get their seals from, but this is pretty shocking.

View attachment 72247

 

[camden]

They are absolute shit lol.

I have had loads of AG parts, all but one of them have problems..they clearly test nothing! There is no other explanation for it. 

Ag nozzle, weird full auto so removed.

Ag bolt (sf version) piston wouldn't fit, also spring retainer wouldn't go in without modding.

Ag outer barrel, hop issues when installed

Ag maritime bolt catch, sticks out about 3mm more than a real one, so you cannot wind the mag release enough to seat it properly. They even admitted to me they screwed it up!

Ag mag release, fell in half first use lol..pin just fell out! 

Ag charging handle, roll pins just fall out

Ag lightweight bolt catch, needed heavy filing to move freely.

Ag urgi v2 rail, will not fit an mws without their adapter ring which only comes with their outer barrel set which causes hop problems! The v1 rail was fine and had a more durable finish.

Saying that, my flash hider is perfectly fine, even they would struggle to fuck that up. 

They clearly make things based on pictures on the Internet, this is why everything is out of spec..then they clearly do not test finished products on a base mws but on modified ones made from their parts. 

I hope they go out of business. 

Could not agree with you more. I have an AG suppressor thast just about 'works' as in: it doesn't fall off.

 

[Hypokondrikern]

@PewPewLoki

Interesting find. I believed that the leak was from the middle of the mag where the two halves meet. That was at least how I got one leak free - simply by merging them with steel epoxy. Anyway, good to know that the valve is 1911 spec for Easy replacement. 
 

The question is however, did they become leak free after you changed out the valve? 
 

Also, could you clarify what o-ring it is that have created the maracas, and where it sits on the valve? I didn’t quite get that ( p.s haven’t seen this o-ring floating around in mind ) 

 

[camden]

I’d stick to the Marui rubber truth be told. I used the tan modify one and it lasted a few hundred rounds. It may well have been the rubber was a dodgy one, who knows. The Marui is spot on. Always keep a few in the tool box from now. 

I have gone back to original TM rubber after using the Tan Modify. Got chewed up after a few thousands rounds. so not a one-off the way this is looking. TM internals are generally very good. I stopped using my sexy Hao BCG for the same reason: just not good enough.

 

[SSPKali]

Could not agree with you more. I have an AG suppressor thast just about 'works' as in: it doesn't fall off.

Just tried to set up my spare Dynamic Precision bolt with an AG nozzle set up - absolute tosh. FPS was +/- 18 and all over the place! 

Replaced it with DP nozzle (very tough, dense feeling plastic, all DP springs) and RATech Black NPAS and it is much more efficient and FPS is pretty consistent.

I will be taking the springs and screws out of the AG valve as back-up last-ditch spares and binning the rest!