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Quick Questions & Simple Answers.

As I have my 3rd game coming up on sunday:

How long does applying for a UKARA number take? (How long untill I can finally start buying my own RIF)

How do you know what battery size/type to use for your replica? (I've seen "nunchuck" type, but also a battery that is basically a long and a short stick, or only just the one stick. I found a replica I'm thinking of buying, but nothing on the website does it say what battery to use)

 
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As I have my 3rd game coming up on sunday:

How long does applying for a UKARA number take? (How long untill I can finally start buying my own RIF)

How do you know what battery size/type to use for your replica? (I've seen "nunchuck" type, but also a battery that is basically a long and a short stick, or only just the one stick. I found a replica I'm thinking of buying, but nothing on the website does it say what battery to use)
Tell us what gun it is and we'll tell you which style of battery :)

It tends to be "form factor" which dictates battery type. I.e. an AK will normally store a battery under the dust cover, so you normally need a stick battery. Some M4s will have a "crane stock" which means you need the nunchuck style etc.

With regards to UKARA - it honestly depends on the site. What happens once you've played your third game is you fill out the UKARA form, pay membership dues to your site and they process the application for you. At my local I had mine processed within a few days.

 
Tell us what gun it is and we'll tell you which style of battery :)

It tends to be "form factor" which dictates battery type. I.e. an AK will normally store a battery under the dust cover, so you normally need a stick battery. Some M4s will have a "crane stock" which means you need the nunchuck style etc.

With regards to UKARA - it honestly depends on the site. What happens once you've played your third game is you fill out the UKARA form, pay membership dues to your site and they process the application for you. At my local I had mine processed within a few days.
Thinking of getting this one: https://www.defconairsoft.co.uk/product/gg-tr16-mbr-556wh-full-metal-with-g2-etu/ so that would be nun-chuck style battery then?

My mates tell me to go for titan batteries, does that make a big difference than any other ones?

 
LMG or HMG with highest rate of fire that isn't a minigun of some kind?

EDIT: And not a G&P Rapid II - Im looking specifically for an LMG or HMG form factor

 
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LMG or HMG with highest rate of fire that isn't a minigun of some kind?

EDIT: And not a G&P Rapid II - Im looking specifically for an LMG or HMG form factor
Whatever you fancy, just slap a high speed gear set or an HPA engine in

 
Gear set or motor set? just looking out of curiosity theres the ASG Infinity CNC motor U-18000 all the way up to the U-45000 but it doesn't explain what the difference is; I'm assuming the highter the number the better the RoF but i've never upgraded a gun so no idea

 
Gear set or motor set? just looking out of curiosity theres the ASG Infinity CNC motor U-18000 all the way up to the U-45000 but it doesn't explain what the difference is; I'm assuming the highter the number the better the RoF but i've never upgraded a gun so no idea
Always go for high speed gears and high torque motor if it's possible. Plus you're going to short stroke everything, this involves a stiffer spring to make up for the reduced piston travel, a HS motor may not be able to pull it. now @Sitting Duck is the man when it comes to motors and all that witchcraft, he may give you a more detailed answer.

Those numbers are most likely the motor's RPM (which doesn't equal gearbox RPM as 18000 rpm would translate to 300 bb/s lol)

 
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quick q

What type of  ' retention holster' fits a TM G17 with torch nicely as i need to upgrade. 

I had an original IMI paddle retention type one as i got it on a deal so was cheaper than the 'clones' but they are tight and i had to file it away to get the G17 to fit.... someone mentioned before getting one to fit a G22 as its slightly bigger and fits the TM 17 better?

what are the We/Nuprol/other brands like fit wise?

 
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Gear set or motor set? just looking out of curiosity theres the ASG Infinity CNC motor U-18000 all the way up to the U-45000 but it doesn't explain what the difference is; I'm assuming the highter the number the better the RoF but i've never upgraded a gun so no idea


Those numbers are most likely the motor's RPM (which doesn't equal gearbox RPM as 18000 rpm would translate to 300 bb/s lol)


This. The lower the number the lower the RPM the motor is designed for, the lower RPM ones produce more torque for pulling bigger springs. In terms of actual RoF though, fit faster gears (lower ratios) and a high torque motor to get a snappier response and/or fit a mosfet to eliminate the high resistance in the trigger contacts.

Also - this page explains the differences in motors pretty well (including the "Boost" series that are cheaper) https://actionsportgames.com/en-gb/productcatalog/products/gun-accessories/aeg-internal-upgrade-parts/motors-parts

 
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I have a slightly squeaky trigger on an FN2000, Am I ok to lube it up with plain on petroleum jelly?

 
I have a slightly squeaky trigger on an FN2000, Am I ok to lube it up with plain on petroleum jelly?
I would tend to stay away from plain jelly.

Strawberry may be better.lol

Sorry couldn't resist.?

Regards

 
I’ve got a King Arms 556 shorty that’s firing at 380fps, which is obviously too hot, which spring would I need to buy to bring it to the bottom side of 350fps? If I bought the spring would it be a job I could do myself? (Sorry I don’t know how to get red writing on iPhone)

 
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I’ve got a King Arms 556 shorty that’s firing at 380fps, which is obviously too hot, which spring would I need to buy to bring it to the bottom side of 350fps? If I bought the spring would it be a job I could do myself? 
- I think an m110 should do it.  Its not an exact science because there are variations between different manufacturers of springs.

- You could also cut a few coils from the one you have but you also have to heat the end red hot to flatten the last coil and then file it smooth.

- If you get a gun that is only slightly over 350 like 360 or so, you can fire on full auto and stop before it completes the firing cycle.  This will keep the spring compressed and leaving it like that for a week or so will reduce the fps.  Just test after a week and repeat if necessary. 

While not as easy as with a quick change spring system, it should be something you can do yourself.  Look for disassembly video on YT

Take your time and maybe take pictures as you disassemble for reference to put it all back.  (The videos should be enough tho)

 
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quick q

What type of  ' retention holster' fits a TM G17 with torch nicely as i need to upgrade. 

I had an original IMI paddle retention type one as i got it on a deal so was cheaper than the 'clones' but they are tight and i had to file it away to get the G17 to fit.... someone mentioned before getting one to fit a G22 as its slightly bigger and fits the TM 17 better?

what are the We/Nuprol/other brands like fit wise?
It will depemd what torch. 

I picked up an FMA G17L holster and will be trying it out this weekend.  I use a we glock 17 and have fitted a surefire x300 replica. View attachment 60990

View attachment 60991

 
- I think an m110 should do it.  Its not an exact science because there are variations between different manufacturers of springs.

- You could also cut a few coils from the one you have but you also have to heat the end red hot to flatten the last coil and then file it smooth.

- If you get a gun that is only slightly over 350 like 360 or so, you can fire on full auto and stop before it completes the firing cycle.  This will keep the spring compressed and leaving it like that for a week or so will reduce the fps.  Just test after a week and repeat if necessary. 

While not as easy as with a quick change spring system, it should be something you can do yourself.  Look for disassembly video on YT

Take your time and maybe take pictures as you disassemble for reference to put it all back.  (The videos should be enough tho)
So what spring manufacturer shall I go for? Been looking at Prometheus as they seem to be good quality from the reviews but they are called SP100 etc... will they fit my gun?

 
So what spring manufacturer shall I go for? Been looking at Prometheus as they seem to be good quality from the reviews but they are called SP100 etc... will they fit my gun?
The SP and M are a different measurement.

The M is based on a 0.2g BB, so an M100 would give you 100m/s at 1j which = 328fps

The SP is based on a 0.25g BB, so an SP100 would give you 100m/s at 1.25j = 328fps or 367fps on a 0.2g BB

So if going for 350fps on a 0.2g BB you would need an M105 or an SP95 I think, roughly.

 
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I would think this can be answered without a full thread.

I've got a two tone AEG I used to use, no longer have a need for it. It was a very cheap thing about £100 and after charging the battery it wouldn't fire (so whether that's a dead battery or not I don't know).

So would there be any point in selling this even at a rockbottom price? Or would it just be more sensible to take it to the scrap.

View attachment 61708

 
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