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Ares Amoeba Striker AS-01/AS-02 Owners Thread

Does anyone know where I can purchase a stainless steel cylinder for the as02? Every one seems to be sold out.

 
Can someone help me with my Striker.
Its an AS01, I've gotten it off a friend of mine as he didn't get on with it.

The thing feels like I'm dragging a small piano back as I have to use some serious elbow grease to pull the bolt back. I've tried silicon oil and greasing the gun which made no noticeable difference.
I've tried the stock spring and an M130 and found that the bolt pull is extremely tough.

Between him and Me we've both put less than 100 bbs through it.
I'm just not sure what needs to be replaced or done to correct this, I've also noticed the plastic "sleeve" that the bolt moves fore and back in also seems to slip back a little bit before moving forward. The Plastic sleeve surrounding the bolt looks a little bit gnarled up on the bottom near the pin from the sear.
After looking at the photos I'd love an opinion, can I get this working smoothly with some sanding, do I need to get a new bolt/upgraded bolt, replace the piston with an upgraded one or do I just throw my hands up and throw money at a different gun ?

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You have to get a new cylinder set. The original one is completely useless. ?

 
Perfect example of people's stupidity.

Fancy useless aftermarket hop chamber but kept the shit stock cylinder.

The rough bolt pull happens because of the AS01 45° sear and the utter shit brass cylinder. One small free thing you can do is to get rid of the cocking indicator. More useless than that fancy AA hop chamber your mate spend way too much on, it grinds against the cylinder side and, to be fair, nobody cares about a visual indicator that your cock is gunned.

 
Guys, smol qwestion.

There is some resistance when pushing the bolt in battery, in particular it happens in the last few millimetres of travel, when the nozzle enters the hop chamber and pushes the bb retention thingy upwards.

Did I fuck up something?

 
Guys, smol qwestion.

There is some resistance when pushing the bolt in battery, in particular it happens in the last few millimetres of travel, when the nozzle enters the hop chamber and pushes the bb retention thingy upwards.

Did I fuck up something?
Mine does this sometimes, usually when I’ve had it apart. After a few shots it stops so never really bothered me. 
 

What’s your setup? 

 
Mine does this sometimes, usually when I’ve had it apart. After a few shots it stops so never really bothered me. 
 

What’s your setup? 
Ares steel cylinder (welded pins)

Stock cylinder head

Stock chamber 

3d printed arm

Omega nub

ML 50° decepticon 

Stock barrel (debridged)

Fired just a handful of shots after installing the hop parts.

 
Mine does this sometimes, usually when I’ve had it apart. After a few shots it stops so never really bothered me.
Same here, from my end I have found its not to do with the hop unit but it is more to do with the bolt and cylinder. I would make sure that when you put the bolt back in you make sure that it is 100% in line with the trigger sears which is what worked for me 

 
Ares steel cylinder (welded pins)

Stock cylinder head

Stock chamber 

3d printed arm

Omega nub

ML 50° decepticon 

Stock barrel (debridged)

Fired just a handful of shots after installing the hop parts.
Still using the stock plastic sleeve around the cylinder? 

 
Perfect example of people's stupidity.

Fancy useless aftermarket hop chamber but kept the shit stock cylinder.

The rough bolt pull happens because of the AS01 45° sear and the utter shit brass cylinder. One small free thing you can do is to get rid of the cocking indicator. More useless than that fancy AA hop chamber your mate spend way too much on, it grinds against the cylinder side and, to be fair, nobody cares about a visual indicator that your cock is gunned.
So just wondering.

Is it just the Steel upgraded cylinder I should go pick up, and should I also replace the stock piston at the same time?
Are the Lycan 90 degree sears the ones to go for?



If I replace the bolt and sear should that allow it to pull the bolt with alot less force or is it still a hard bolt pull even with the upgraded bolt?
Does the upgraded steel bolt run around ~£80 ?

 
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Personally I would get yourself one of these 

http://www.redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_Conversion_Kits_Other_ARES_Compact_Power_Spring_Bolt_for_ARES_Amoeba_STRIKER_S1_Sniper_Rifle_Upgraded_Version.htm

These are the cheapest and if you pretend to be a minor on the packaging it will count as a gift and you won't get hit with import charges.

I would also pick yourself up one of these 

https://www.bespokeairsoft.co.uk/lycan-romeo-sear-for-ares-striker-as01-1pc-steel

Both of which I have in mine and it gives a silky smooth bolt pull. But if you are struggling for cash I would simply get an upgraded piston and wet sand the exterior of your current bolt to remove the black covering which smooths the bolt pull and gives the bolt a nice copper colour 

 
Yes, you need a piston too.

Mine became useless in two games.

Yes, less force will be needed when cocking. 45 degree trigger with strong spring is pressing the piston against the cylinder.

 
Thanks man 

That's interesting does the ring actually stay there with continual use or do you still have to adust it 
There is a video on YouTube explaining installation. It can be a bit of a bitch to get right, but once it’s done it works really well and stays in place. 

 
Just a little follow up from the cylinder ring. If you are thinking of getting this be warned about the sheer level of sanding you will need to do to get it to bloody work. I think I spent around 3 hours with sandpaper and my own tears to get it working perfectly. But dear god is it worth it. It is quite possibly the best quality life change I have done to the Striker, the bolt literally falls back down into the breach, I love how it is now but dear lord did it take a long time to get it working properly ??

 
Just a little follow up from the cylinder ring. If you are thinking of getting this be warned about the sheer level of sanding you will need to do to get it to bloody work. I think I spent around 3 hours with sandpaper and my own tears to get it working perfectly. But dear god is it worth it. It is quite possibly the best quality life change I have done to the Striker, the bolt literally falls back down into the breach, I love how it is now but dear lord did it take a long time to get it working properly ??
what were you sanding? 

 
Could you please measure it next time you take it apart? For... khm... education. :)

 
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