SeniorSpaz87
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- May 24, 2014
- 1,786
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- #21
With dean connectors.
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Nothing to do with the electrical side, but is that metal shavings under your bevel gear in the first picture?Ok, here the area I think y'all asked to see. If it's not, I'll go take more pics.
Nope, just shiny greaseNothing to do with the electrical side, but is that metal shavings under your bevel gear in the first picture?
And should I be getting anything else at the same time (multimeter?)?By-passed the trigger yet?
Thats fine, definitely change the battery connectors!Aright, I am now in a position to test the motors; and about to get a bill for my jump into electrical (airsoft) engineering. Got a soldering kit already (done quite a bit of that already), as well as solder, a few meters of wires, wire cutters, wire strippers, and more. About to buy a bunch or deans and mini-t connectors, shrink wrap, and more... Anyway, is this an ok (and safe (ish)) setup to bypass the trigger and attempt to activate the motor? I've got my pilot flame-proof gloves at the ready just in case I set my bed sheets on fire...
Also, you can see the battery I melted the mini-t connectors on...
yea, got a bunch of deans and mini-t male and female ends on the way. ill test the motor when I get home.Q
Thats fine, definitely change the battery connectors!
If you wanted to check the motor you could just connect the motor straight to the battery. Would be easier with two people as the motor spins pretty fast.
To check the trigger, set up like the picture but split the gearbox. Use another wire and connect it to the two wires on the trigger. If the motor spins (maybe do it test after the motor test) it means the trigger needs replacing.
Stick with deans if you can.yea, got a bunch of deans and mini-t male and female ends on the way. ill test the motor when I get home.