Useful things to know about the Umarex Sportline G36c

[L1ct0r]

Milanote project board here: https://app.milanote.com/1OVs541EGnnzd3?p=QN3hsbkf31B

if you want your own Milanote account the basic account is free and if you use my link to sign up, I get some extra space to make more boards you might be interested in.

Referal link: https://www.milanote.com/refer/rcE1UFqme45OgKzLSD

So, recently I picked up one of these guns second hand. Mainly to have fun tinkering and see what I could create. depending on what happens it may become a back-up gun, or I may see if anyone is interested buying it off me.

As I continue to work on it, I thought I'd stick up the occasional post if I discover anything interesting that other people might want to know.

One initial thought I had was putting a longer barrel on it, hidden by a longer external barrel or a mock suppressor. I had heard from various internet explorations that the stock plastic flash hider on the Sportline models was either molded onto the plastic outer barrel, or threaded but glued on.

After a bit more research and looking at stuff about the Sportline UMP, it turns out that the G36 flash hider is threaded, and glued on. whatever adhesive they used is pretty unshiftable, until you warm it up. Some careful use of a heat gun (get it so the flash hider feels hot, but not too hot to grip firmly) and it should just unscrew easily (mine did, I guess different production runs may have used different adhesive).

Underneath the thread seems like a pretty standard 14mm CW. I have a specna arms 14mm CW to 14mm CW adaptor and that fits perfectly, so thats what I'm going with. I would guess that any 14mm CW attachment or adaptor will do the same. The specna adaptor screws up nice and tight and looks perfectly straight, I'll probably put a bit of lock tight on it once I'm satisfied that its staying installed.

My guess is that whoever manufactures the guns for Umarex (I think it might be S&T) sells into various territories, some of which require toy guns to come with orange tips and others which don't. Making the outer barrel and the flash hider as a two part assembly means it's easy to add a black or orange hider, depending on the recieving territory, without having to make two different types of main outer barrel.

Whatever the reason. It's nice to know that you can quickly and easily modifiy the outer barrels on these without having to order expensive upgrade parts from Hong Kong (thats assuming you can find them these days).

Happy teching.

 

[RostokMcSpoons]

A cheapo G36 of some description is on my wish-list so thanks for starting this thread, I'll follow with interest as it may prove useful, whatever model I end up with!

 

[L1ct0r]

After having taken it apart completely (aside from the gearbox) I can find nothing to complain about on the Sportline model. If you paid more I'm sure you might get one that looked more real, but as toy guns go its fine. I chrono'd it before I started playing around and it was doing a solid 326 fps. From the outside it looks like its the same V3 gearbox as is inside the Sportline UMP45 (I see you have had a look on my thread on one of those). This G36 was also a two tone and the Vinyl Dye rattle can is doing an equally good job of covering all the blue. As far as construction goes, it seems solid but not necessarily made from the absolute premium materials. I'd say it's perfect if you want a solid skirmish day gun. If you want to stick it on the wall and pretend it's real then you might want to spend a bit more and get something a bit more high end. I'm pretty sure from the noise it makes when firing, and the fact it's got a barrel that is only a bit longer than the UMP, I'm going to find it's got a full cylinder but with a fairly poor air seal meaning it behaves like it has a ported cylinder. The gear box shell looks pretty solid, but it would probably benefit from a radius job on the front end. Unless you put a quite long barrel on it it's going to be over-cylindered if you  fix the poor air seal. Now I've worked out the barrel can take attachments I'm thinking mock suppressor and longer barrel (300-330mm), then I should be able to fix the air seal and tone the spring down a bit so it can do an all day 325-330 fps without straining it guts. It should be an ok looking gun with pretty bomb-proof internals that will just run and run.

 

[Tactical Pith Helmet]

Just what I need; another rif to consider and order after a few beers... 

Sort of thanks.  ?

 

[L1ct0r]

I'm using Milanote for project planning, collecting reference images and generally keeping track of stuff. Out of interest, can anyone see my G36c board? It should be viewable on the following link:

https://app.milanote.com/1OVs541EGnnzd3?p=QN3hsbkf31B

If anyone else thinks Milanote looks interesting, then the basic account is free and allows you to create up to 100 individual items, i.e. a picture, a list, a comment box, etc. 

If you do decide to try it and you set up via my refferal link, then I get 20 extra items added to my allowance. This would be greatly appreciated and means I could start doing a viewable project board for future builds. No worries if It doesn't look like something of interest, but I figure I'm not hurting anyone by asking ?. Link below:

https://www.milanote.com/refer/rcE1UFqme45OgKzLSD

cheers.

 

[Lozart]

I'm using Milanote for project planning, collecting reference images and generally keeping track of stuff. Out of interest, can anyone see my G36c board? It should be viewable on the following link:

https://app.milanote.com/1OVs541EGnnzd3?p=QN3hsbkf31B

If anyone else thinks Milanote looks interesting, then the basic account is free and allows you to create up to 100 individual items, i.e. a picture, a list, a comment box, etc. 

If you do decide to try it and you set up via my referral link, then I get 20 extra items added to my allowance. This would be greatly appreciated and means I could start doing a viewable project board for future builds. No worries if It doesn't look like something of interest, but I figure I'm not hurting anyone by asking ?. Link below:

https://www.milanote.com/refer/rcE1UFqme45OgKzLSD

cheers.

I can see the board, liked it so signed up from your link!

 

[L1ct0r]

I can see the board, liked it so signed up from your link!

Cheers Loz, much appreciated.

 

[Jamsandwich]

That's really cool.  I don't intend to get one, but the G36 is a monster and definitely what I would choose if I were looking.

With that said, I may well take your work as inspiration for planning my AUG update, good work.

 

[L1ct0r]

With that said, I may well take your work as inspiration for planning my AUG update, good work.

Cheers for the comment Jam. I do like a nice AUG. Do us a build thread if you start tinkering.

I'm keeping my eyes open for a suitable M14 Socom. It would suit my play style and my regular site (quite woody, no really long sight lines) perfectly.

 

[RostokMcSpoons]

Cool start... Milanote looks useful for this sort of thing

View attachment 98676

9 RPS sounds rather low, I suggest a little visit to @AK2M4 to source a better motor..?   Even if you were going for a semi-auto build that would suggest it'd be a bit sluggish to cycle.  But a re-shim, different battery etc might bring that up to the 15+ that you should be looking for (as a minimum).
(20 is, of course, plenty)
 

 

[L1ct0r]

I think the 9 rps is more a function of the non specific Nimh pack it came with. I was using that just to check it worked and see what sort of FPS I was dealing with. On the Skirmish day it lasted about a game and a half (50 minutes?) so I reckon its a duffer. I've got a GATE nanoASR to go in it, plus i'll rewire it with 16 guage wire and put some deans connectors on it. with a gearbox re-shim and a Lipo pack I'm pretty sure the RPS will improve without me having to do much else about it. If I'm going to keep it I might go further, but if I end up looking to sell I want to make It a solid base that someone else can build off if they want, but don't need to. Hopefully it'll have a bit of unique style and make someone a great first gun, or a reliable back-up work horse.

 

[L1ct0r]

Not fully finished by any means, but the stock adaptor turned up on tuesday, so I borrowed my sons suppressor and tried out a couple of M4 stocks I had laying around. Its currently front wired, the hand guard is pretty easy to remove, and has space for a two or three cell Lipo brick. Do I leave it like that, or do I rewire to the rear and set it up to take more common AEG Lipos in a crane stock? 

advantage of wiring it to the rear are it would move the center of gravity backwards, making the gun nicer to shoulder on an all day game, and it would take commonly available batteries. Advantages of leaving as is are that you can use a lower profile M4 Stock which will fold up nicer, you won't see any wires when the stock is folded, and you can quickly and easily put the original skeleton Stock on if you prefer that look.

Thoughts?

I know the barrel looks bent in the photos. As far as I can tell it isn't.  the whole suppressor and barrel assembly is straight and correctly aligned with the inner barrel, but the whole thing might be angled downwards a fraction when fitted in the gun. more investigation may be necessary, possibly some shims.

View attachment 98756

View attachment 98757

 

[Rogerborg]

FWIW, I can't run a suppressor silencer[*]on my G36 because it does skew too much and mashes up the BBs.  I don't think you're imagining that.

[*]

 

[L1ct0r]

 suppressor silencer

https://www.silencershop.com/blog/post/silencer-suppressor  ? 

Hmmm. That sounds like a bit of a bollock. 

That said, the long barrel versions look fine, so It must be possible. I wonder if that's why all the Sportline models seem to be G36C's. Maybe its expensive to make a long straight G36 barrel?

 

[Rogerborg]

https://www.silencershop.com/blog/post/silencer-suppressor  ? 

I raise you one Ashley Hlebinsky "If I can tell that someone is going to get really mad that I used the word 'silencer', I always use it."  Saucy minx.

It is a weird one, it seems that the outer barrel and and silencer thread just isn't supported well enough.  To be fair, the real-plastic G36 has been withdrawn because their barrels also start wandering all over the place as soon as the plastic heats up.

 

[Cannonfodder]

I raise you one Ashley Hlebinsky "If I can tell that someone is going to get really mad that I used the word 'silencer', I always use it."  Saucy minx.

A good looking redhead who likes guns and winding up purists. ❤❤❤

To be fair, the real-plastic G36 has been withdrawn because their barrels also start wandering all over the place as soon as the plastic heats up.

Gun Jesus did a video on this. Also at the time these claims were made I asked someone from the firearms and protective equipment department at HOSDB (as it was called then). They also said it's bollocks as they couldn't replicate the results even using more ammunition than claimed is enough. 

 

[L1ct0r]

Ha! To be honest, I don't mind if you call them silencers or suppressors. I'm not *that* much of a pedant. I seem to have fixed my particular issue. I applied gentle corrective pressure in an upward direction, just to see if anything happened.  there was a *pop* and the barrel was aligned with the same horizontal as the top rail. I think the outer barrel just wasn't quite aligned with the guides it slides on to. My plan is to fit a longer barrel and then cover it up with a mock supprilancer. I am hoping that a brass barrel going all the way down the middle of the outer barrel and the silessor will give it enough rigidity to keep things in place. 

Hence Forth, I shall refer to the barrel attachment in question as tubeymakebanggopop.

I'm airing on the side of leaving it front wired because I prefer the look of the lower profile M4 stock.