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TM MP5 NGRS Owners

Hi folks,

Working on a Tokyo Marui MP5SD6 NGRS for a friend. Unfortunately, after trying a new battery in his replica, the mini tamiya shorted / melted on the positive pole of the connector. After changing out the tamiya connector with a deans, the etu is giving me a double red flash. I am trying to diagnose what on earth he has done here but quite honestly my biggest struggle right now is removing the damned fire selector.

Looking at some videos, it seems to need to be in the fourth position pointed towards the rear of the gun, then whilst depressing the trigger it should be able to pull out.

I cannot for the life of me get this thing to budge, there is some separation from the lower but no amount of prying seems to want to get this thing to move.

Is there a knack that I am missing here?

 
with the white marker on the fire selector facing the pistol grip, pry up the selector while pulling the trigger.

The 2 red flashes means the ECU is dead. A diode sits across the + and - inputs from the battery and if reverse wired blows. Problem with the original A5 board was it took too long to blow and caused all sorts of IC's to blow. The SD has a newer ECU design and might be salvageable as I've not played with one yet. The diode is replaceable but it's really a question on what else has blown.

Spare ECU's aren't available from TM as they class it as a factory item, meaning the AEG needs to go back to the factory for repair (I got WGC to ask them about spare ECU's). Occasionally Impulse101 sell complete lowers and this is probably the only way to get it working again if the ECU is totally goosed.

I've got an original ECU here which I'm trying to reverse engineer to see how much it would cost to get made.  

 
mightyjebus said:
with the white marker on the fire selector facing the pistol grip, pry up the selector while pulling the trigger.

The 2 red flashes means the ECU is dead. A diode sits across the + and - inputs from the battery and if reverse wired blows. Problem with the original A5 board was it took too long to blow and caused all sorts of IC's to blow. The SD has a newer ECU design and might be salvageable as I've not played with one yet. The diode is replaceable but it's really a question on what else has blown.

Spare ECU's aren't available from TM as they class it as a factory item, meaning the AEG needs to go back to the factory for repair (I got WGC to ask them about spare ECU's). Occasionally Impulse101 sell complete lowers and this is probably the only way to get it working again if the ECU is totally goosed.

I've got an original ECU here which I'm trying to reverse engineer to see how much it would cost to get made.  
Click to expand...
Thanks very much for the quick response - I am not even sure how he managed to reverse polarity with the mini tamiya connector. Must have tried very hard to get those connected!

Do Marui offer any sort of factory repair service for these occasions?

I will need to see what he wants to do with it considering it has never been fielded and literally in his possession for only a few days before it went kaput!

 
Yeah. I’d find out what he wants to do before tearing into it specially if he’s doing some sort of warranty claim on it. 

 
Connorthescot said:
Thanks very much for the quick response - I am not even sure how he managed to reverse polarity with the mini tamiya connector. Must have tried very hard to get those connected!

Do Marui offer any sort of factory repair service for these occasions?
Click to expand...
Possibly used a "non airsoft" mini tamiya battery with the traditional positive/negative wiring (why the frick airsoft has reverse polarity mini tamiya is beyond me)

He would need to go to the shop he bought it off, they would need to go to the distributor who will need to go back to TM, once its been inspected, at his cost. Possibly the distributor will keep it as a spare part gun for anything else that goes funky on another gun out the box but its down to them. Based on your description, unless he bought the battery with the gun, it is unlikely to be a warranty claim. I say this as my mp5 cooked itself out the box, but i bought 2 batteries with the gun and used those one specifically with the gun to inspect it, so it could be a friday afternoon lemon. Had to fight with the retailer for about a week to get a replacement.

Could he buy a second hand one to use or salvage, and keep the broken one until an aftermarket fet is available or a work around is created.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Yeah, I fancy a solid stock version, but it doesn't seem sensible dropping £500 on an almost identical gun to the one I already have just for that. Probably better to await the inevitable solid stock MP5SD and pick one of those up so I can swap front ends over.

Mag prices have actually come down from last week. I know this because I bought mags at Eagle 6 on the basis they were cheaper at £37 than the out of stock FS ones (which were down as £42!). Gaaah. Oh well, so it goes.

 
It's always possible I'm missing something but I wouldn't say an SD with fixed stock is inevitable.  Certainly possible, but it's not like they remix every possible parts combo and sell it in a box, that'd be untold 1000s of gun SKUs.  If there is another factory rear wired option released I'd guess at maybe an AKX style monster with M-LOK up front (emphasis on the maybe).  I don't know if there's some weird MP5-a-like in a Resident Evil game but..

 
Before I utterly f*ck the ECU in my MP5, does this layout for the connectors look correct? Singled out pin on the MR30 for positive to the vertical pin on the deans? I'm like 99.9% sure but want to check ?

View attachment 119179

 
Duno about the MR30 side but the Deans is correct

 
It’s the MR30 side I’m not sure on either, can’t find any wiring diagrams online. 

 
Someone I trust to tech my NGRSs has confirmed the above, will post results or delete my forum account later ?

 
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