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The 'What have you just bought' Thread

Great, taking my mate's apart later today, keeps mis-feeding, on all mags. I think it may be the tappet plate or the nozzle, anyone know?

 
Liam, if you want to make the trigger spring less... Springy... Then instead of poking the spring through the hole cut in the trigger, just hook it around the back of the trigger. Works just the same but gives it less springiness.

 
joshcowin said:
could be tappet plate spring or nozzle not seated correctly
Click to expand...
Yeah that's what I was thinking, will find out later :P . Could it be related to the hop? I've read that causing double feeds but not misfeeds.

Airsoft-Ed said:
Liam, if you want to make the trigger spring less... Springy... Then instead of poking the spring through the hole cut in the trigger, just hook it around the back of the trigger. Works just the same but gives it less springiness.
Click to expand...
That's an idea.. Although it is good fun forcing things together :P .

Also, how easy/hard is the ASCU to install? I plan on buying one this week or next, along with all my M4 parts as I'm getting money back from my laptop.

 
it may be mags not in correctly,it could be the whole hop because when i had my g&g for the first time the ir was a dimple in the feed tube from the mag of the inside of the hop and it was letting the odd bb through

 
A full set of A-TACS FG BDUs may have turned up on my doorstep today :/

 
craig said:
its Sunday i shouldn't have to read that much :huh:
Click to expand...
Yeah, you have my sympathy :lol:

It turned out that the MK 6 helmet visor I bought is "Anti-Mine" - it says so printed right on the top left hand corner of the thing.

So far I haven't taken a V2 gearbox apart. Do you lot reckon it's more difficult to get back together than a V3?

 
Very nice Gerber for my Birthday (comes in dead handy for all sorts of stuff in work).

IMG_0436.jpg


And some airsoft stuff for myself. Nothing to do with it being my birthday, actually ordered all of this when I was down in the Falklands.

Ops-Core stuff first to go on my TMC AirFrame, kept the packaging in so it's all labelled up without writing a list:

IMG_0438.jpg


Followed by G-Code.

IMG_0462.jpg


SOC Rig for P226

Extra SOC lower cowling for P226 + TLR-1

2 x H-MAR MOLLE RTI adapters

RTI MOLLE belt mount

One plain RTI wheel without any mounting solution

2 x Aluminium RTI Hangers for SERPAs

Most importantly, lots of sweet free merch'

 
Liam Porter said:
Also, how easy/hard is the ASCU to install? I plan on buying one this week or next, along with all my M4 parts as I'm getting money back from my laptop.
Click to expand...
It's quite easy to actually mount the unit, it's the wires that make it a massive pain in the arse, they have a tendency to move away from the spot where you placed them whilst trying to get the gearbox shell back together.

The wires also break VERY easily, I had to rewire the motor connectors about 7 times trying to get them the right length so I didn't have to bend them to snapping point. So the first time you try, leave yourself enough wire spare for a second try.

Before closing the gearbox up make sure the sensor that monitors the sector gear, and the gear itself are in EXACTLY the place it tells you in the manual, if it's even slightly wrong you'll end up with the gun locking on semi every few shots because the unit will cut the motor power slightly before a full cycle, so eventually you'll get the tappet plate stuck at it's middle point and the gun will jam.

Also, you'll need your selector plate to have a metal strip on it, if it's entirely plastic you'll need to swap it out.

 
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A LCT PK-33 style AK Fire Selector and an AK Steel Ejection Port Cover with Stell Charging Handle. The former should make switching down to semi-auto slightly easier, but it will make flicking back up to full-auto much easier and thus quicker; the latter just looks nasty :D

 
Airsoft-Ed said:
It's quite easy to actually mount the unit, it's the wires that make it a massive pain in the arse, they have a tendency to move away from the spot where you placed them whilst trying to get the gearbox shell back together.
The wires also break VERY easily, I had to rewire the motor connectors about 7 times trying to get them the right length so I didn't have to bend them to snapping point. So the first time you try, leave yourself enough wire spare for a second try.

Before closing the gearbox up make sure the sensor that monitors the sector gear, and the gear itself are in EXACTLY the place it tells you in the manual, if it's even slightly wrong you'll end up with the gun locking on semi every few shots because the unit will cut the motor power slightly before a full cycle, so eventually you'll get the tappet plate stuck at it's middle point and the gun will jam.

Also, you'll need your selector plate to have a metal strip on it, if it's entirely plastic you'll need to swap it out.
Click to expand...

Okay, I hate the wires in V2 gearboxes as they are. I always end up trapping them or something stupid. I can see this going badly..

I'll bear that in mind, not really a fan of having guns lock up on me.

I've got that bit as the stock one snapped, so had to replace it :P .

 
Getting the gearbox in my old M4, brute force and ignorance didn't work for a change, it just scratched it and snapped the selector plate..

Thought you didn't like G&P?

 
I don't particularly but they have the most aftermarket parts available when it comes to external compatibility.

Plus, it's a project gun, so if it's bad I'll just swap out every inch of the internals.

As it stands the only thing I'm planning on keeping are the stock and stock tube and the internals, maybe the receiver too if it's a blank one.

I'm going to get a custom barrel extension, the C8 receiver (or have the current one engraved) swap the grip, add RIS, swap the front sight post/gas block and stick an ACOG on it.

Also planning on running it at 350 fps with a 6.01mm tightbore - I want to test for myself if the jamming rumours and poor accuracy are true.

 
Yeah true, that's one reason my M4's going to be 95% G&P.

It shouldn't be bad, I think the M16 you had was an older one as you seemed to have more problems with it than I did with mine. Also, yours had white trades painted whereas mine were engraved.

It's G&P, it won't be a blank receiver! Why not build literally from scratch then, buy gearbox, motor, barrel, hop unit, everything separately?

I doubt they are as true as everyone says, just keep it clean after every game and use high quality BBs.

 
I'm sure you can still get blank receivers. I definitely can't see any on the photo shown in the link I posted above.

So long as it's not the effing Marine body I'm not too bothered. Apparently the Colt receiver is sometimes used on the L119 so it wouldn't be all that inaccurate if it had that.

But I do have a passionate hatred of the Marine trades.

 
It's the wrong way round to be able to see the trades, they're on the opposite side..

You're gonna love this then: on G&P's website, the M4 commando (RIS version and normal version) both have Marine trades :P .

Although Wolf Armouries may have removed the trades, I know some US retailers do (fill in engraved ones with wax and burn off others).

If you need RIS, why didn't you get the G&P commando with RIS?

 
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Liam Porter said:
It's the wrong way round to be able to see the trades, they're on the opposite side..
You're gonna love this then: on G&P's website, the M4 commando (RIS version and normal version) both have Marine trades :P .

Although Wolf Armouries may have removed the trades, I know some US retailers do (fill in engraved ones with wax and burn off others).

If you need RIS, why didn't you get the G&P commando with RIS?
Click to expand...
I couldn't find it with RIS anywhere and I only have a limited budget.

Also, I swear there are usually trades on both sides.

 
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