• Hi Guest. Welcome to the new forums. All of your posts and personal messages have been migrated. Attachments (i.e. images) and The (Old) Classifieds have been wiped.

    The old forums will be available for a couple of weeks should you wish to grab old images or classifieds listings content. Go Here

    If you have any issues please post about them in the Forum Feedback thread: Go Here

THE TM MWS thread

I've just ordered a SixG Supernub, was wondering though.

Wont it eventually cut the bucking cause its so hard?

Also, which nozzle spring set should you get? Do you need a regular, 120%, 150%?
Ive had mine for years. It leaves a witness mark on the rubber but no cuts.

For Nozzle spring strength, you only need to up is rate if you increase your ROF dramatically. I would think that makes sense. So stock to 120% should be perfectly fine

 
Also, which nozzle spring set should you get? Do you need a regular, 120%, 150%?
Whichever you choose, spares. 

I've got some TM originals, a couple of Guns Modify 150% ones and I've just bought a pair of the BavTac 140% springs. 

 
On the hunt for a couple of TM 35 round mags, but struggling, anyone come across any in stock?

 
The bavtac zet plate is nice and I just installed it but the bavtac nub certainly does not agree with the MR HOP maple leaf bucking. I have a laylax hop up unit though so dont know if that has anything to do with it but the bavtac nub with the MR HOP bucking just doesn't work for me, persistent jams.

I'm of the same opinion that the bavtac nub should be used with the regular type hop up mounds.

Side note.....six g nub and MR HOP bucking is very wow, good results.

 
The bavtac zet plate is nice and I just installed it but the bavtac nub certainly does not agree with the MR HOP maple leaf bucking. I have a laylax hop up unit though so dont know if that has anything to do with it but the bavtac nub with the MR HOP bucking just doesn't work for me, persistent jams.

I'm of the same opinion that the bavtac nub should be used with the regular type hop up mounds.

Side note.....six g nub and MR HOP bucking is very wow, good results.


Interesting. I think I mentioned earlier in the thread that I've picked up the BavTac Zet plate and a couple of nubs. My plan is to get another MWS, test it completely stock, then fit the Zet plate and nub, but keep the TM hop and bucking as is. I may also experiment with some different nozzles too. 

I have the feeling that my stock MWS with brass nub will still be best ?

 
I have the feeling that my stock MWS with brass nub will still be best ?
You may well be right there. I have ( internally) a bone stock MWS bar the Six-G nub. Its had around 13000 rounds through it so far and I feel it is properly bed in now. I used it sunday. The trigger feels locked in now, Perfect wall and crisp break. The bbs seem to be shooting straighter than ever. Super consistent. Whilst in spawn before game starts I was able to aim at random bbs on the floor a good 5 - 10 meters away and hit them in 1-3 shots. And at around 30 meters able to hit things around 2inch square consistently. That's more than accurate enough for me. They really do seem to get better after around 10k rounds. 

 
 They really do seem to get better after around 10k rounds. 


I haven't got that many rounds through mine yet, but now warmer days are here, I'm hoping to get more time with it. The biggest battle has been purely temperature related.

I will 100% not change anything internally on my existing MWS. I'm just curious to see what effect certain internal "upgrades" will have when i pick a new one up. Like I said, I fully expect after fucking about with it, to go back to the stock set-up with a SixG nub ?

 
I haven't got that many rounds through mine yet, but now warmer days are here, I'm hoping to get more time with it. The biggest battle has been purely temperature related.

I will 100% not change anything internally on my existing MWS. I'm just curious to see what effect certain internal "upgrades" will have when i pick a new one up. Like I said, I fully expect after fucking about with it, to go back to the stock set-up with a SixG nub ?
That's just reminded me I missed one other internal mod. An RA tech NPAS. Allows to tune power up and down based on temperature. I can still get 350fps in winter (indoors in a unheated warehouse) on standard green gas. 

 
That's just reminded me I missed one other internal mod. An RA tech NPAS. Allows to tune power up and down based on temperature. I can still get 350fps in winter (indoors in a unheated warehouse) on standard green gas. 
I have thought about an NPAS, so will probably add it to the list. Good shout. 

I don't generally play CQB but I am curious to go to an indoor site and see how I get on.

 
Does anyone have a concise guide to mods needed to run an MWS on regular green gas properly and reliably nowadays?

Either freshly written, or just linking to an old post/thread/anything? I assume it's been discussed before, but occasional reminders are good. Also most stuff seems to be written around the v2 TM mags, I'm pretty sure I have the v3... Or, whatever version is latest. Regular green gas just spews out and only shoots half a mag at most no matter the fill techniques.

I'm just running mine back on low power gas right now as I've found it the most reliable thing to do, but I know a lot of people do run them, or want to run them, on regular pressure green gas given how common it is here in the UK over low pressure gas.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Does anyone have a concise guide to mods needed to run an MWS on regular green gas properly and reliably nowadays?

Either freshly written, or just linking to an old post/thread/anything? I assume it's been discussed before, but occasional reminders are good. Also most stuff seems to be written around the v2 TM mags, I'm pretty sure I have the v3... Or, whatever version is latest. Regular green gas just spews out and only shoots half a mag at most no matter the fill techniques.

I'm just running mine back on low power gas right now as I've found it the most reliable thing to do, but I know a lot of people do run them, or want to run them, on regular pressure green gas given how common it is here in the UK over low pressure gas.
Nothing should 'need' to be modded, to run higher power gas. I run mine on ZeroOne gas or currently vorsk V8 as I ran out of ZO. Supposedly you will eventually need to replace the nozzle return spring as this is likely to be the first thing to give from higher powered gas. I'm at around 13k rounds all with standard UK powered gas,  Not 144a and yet to have anything break. 

 
Nothing should 'need' to be modded, to run higher power gas. I run mine on ZeroOne gas or currently vorsk V8 as I ran out of ZO. Supposedly you will eventually need to replace the nozzle return spring as this is likely to be the first thing to give from higher powered gas. I'm at around 13k rounds all with standard UK powered gas,  Not 144a and yet to have anything break. 
I more mean, the mags just won't take regular gas. I trust the internals of the gun itself to handle regular gas, but in the mags there seems to be some kind of valve that just doesn't allow for it. No matter the fill amount or technique, it just vents it and then only fires like half a mag in semi, or essentially just a burst on auto. 

 
What gas are you trying to use? Might be the bottle nozzle is too short / fucked?

Have you tried purging them?

 
This seems to be common with v3 mags, I have v3 mags and have had a similar issue. 

My "work around" has been to use ultra air gas and abbey. Nuprol has been hit and miss and using propane was a complete waste. 

My suspicions are around the nozzle on the gas not fitting into the valve quite right, rather than the gas itself. Add onto that I'm a gbbr noob and I didn't want to mess with it over cold games, so just getting it back into action. 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I more mean, the mags just won't take regular gas. I trust the internals of the gun itself to handle regular gas, but in the mags there seems to be some kind of valve that just doesn't allow for it. No matter the fill amount or technique, it just vents it and then only fires like half a mag in semi, or essentially just a burst on auto. 
Sorry I'm with you. Mine are v2 and no issues. Like mentioned could be the nozzle of the gas can. Some brands are quite short and only just fit. You can get a little nozzle extension... maybe worth a try. From experience. Abbey and ZO (made by abbey) are on the short side and when filling the rim where the cap attaches the can touches the mag. But vorsk are much longer and easily reach into the valve without the rim touching the mag.

 
Does anyone have a concise guide to mods needed to run an MWS on regular green gas properly and reliably nowadays?

Either freshly written, or just linking to an old post/thread/anything? I assume it's been discussed before, but occasional reminders are good. Also most stuff seems to be written around the v2 TM mags, I'm pretty sure I have the v3... Or, whatever version is latest. Regular green gas just spews out and only shoots half a mag at most no matter the fill techniques.

I'm just running mine back on low power gas right now as I've found it the most reliable thing to do, but I know a lot of people do run them, or want to run them, on regular pressure green gas given how common it is here in the UK over low pressure gas.


The mags will take all types of gas, as said its the different can/fill nozzles that are the problem.

Obv dont take the piss with them, IE dont put fill them with the most powerful gas / propane in the height of summer.

Gas power/type should be changed according to weather/temperature to MAINTAIN a consistent FPS year round.

If you want to increase the FPS of the gun, use a longer barrel and or NPAS type doohicky.

The only thing the MWS really needs to handle more powerfull gas / higher FPS settings is a HSB or similar to stop the buffer from shattering.

 
The mags will take all types of gas, as said its the different can/fill nozzles that are the problem.

Obv dont take the piss with them, IE dont put fill them with the most powerful gas / propane in the height of summer.

Gas power/type should be changed according to weather/temperature to MAINTAIN a consistent FPS year round.

If you want to increase the FPS of the gun, use a longer barrel and or NPAS type doohicky.

The only thing the MWS really needs to handle more powerfull gas / higher FPS settings is a HSB or similar to stop the buffer from shattering.
Dave, which gas are u using at which temperatures?

Few years back people said to use gas without silicone in it, is this still what people suggest?

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Does anyone have a concise guide to mods needed to run an MWS on regular green gas properly and reliably nowadays?

Either freshly written, or just linking to an old post/thread/anything? I assume it's been discussed before, but occasional reminders are good. Also most stuff seems to be written around the v2 TM mags, I'm pretty sure I have the v3... Or, whatever version is latest. Regular green gas just spews out and only shoots half a mag at most no matter the fill techniques.

I'm just running mine back on low power gas right now as I've found it the most reliable thing to do, but I know a lot of people do run them, or want to run them, on regular pressure green gas given how common it is here in the UK over low pressure gas.
I have several MWS and I run them on sniper gas in the summer(no silicone to contaminate the hop) which is slightly stronger than green. One of my rifles, a MK16 DMR runs at 2.2J (RIFT airsoft have a 2.32J limit for DMRs) and it has had no internal modifications apart from Laylax hop unit, Laylax barrel, TNT bucking and Omega nub. I  have bought an uprated Eagle6 spring set which I have not yet fitted, and so far nothing has broken. One of my other MWS and Archwick L119, is internally Guns Modify, and I have had no problems with it yet on Sniper gas. During the recent winter with temperatures around zero I ran both rifles on MAPP gas (strong black gas) with no issues. However I would say it would be wise to upgrade the spring set, as this costs little, and in the summer maybe use a stronger buffer setup. 

 
Last edited by a moderator:
@Salamanca The key here is you are using it as a DMR so not quite as many shots going of regardign the buffer shattering.

The HSB would give you a fps consistency boost tho.

@itsme i havent fielded an MWS for quite some time now, but typically id use Nuprol 2.0 most of the year, switching to 3.0 in the winter / temps around 10c, 4.0 if temps approaching zero.

 
@Salamanca The key here is you are using it as a DMR so not quite as many shots going of regardign the buffer shattering.

The HSB would give you a fps consistency boost tho.

@itsme i havent fielded an MWS for quite some time now, but typically id use Nuprol 2.0 most of the year, switching to 3.0 in the winter / temps around 10c, 4.0 if temps approaching zero.
Are people still recommending to run gas without silicone in it? I used to order gas from airsoft entrepôt but not sure if I still should. 
 

also another question, would these two products be good for spare parts? 
 

https://www.rainbow8.com/products/tokyo-marui-m4a1-mws-gbb-loading-nozzle-mgg2-115
 

https://www.rainbow8.com/products/uac-enhanced-nozzle-spring-set-for-tm-m4a1-mws
 

any other parts that are handy to have on hand? And is that nozzle a genuine TM part? 

 
Back
Top