THE TM MWS thread

[Groot]

Have seen you try the same joke to no avail a few times now bud, I’m afraid it’s not catching on… mainly because it’s not funny in the slightest.

View attachment 75495

 

[Hypokondrikern]

Just realized why I actually bought the MWS in the first place: This Thread. A really informative platform reminiscent of the KC02 Facebook group. Quick answers regarding replica problems, modding, parts recommendation and a bit of friendly HPA bantering. 
 

Why did I realize that just now? Well, I tried to tap into the GBLS community as I found an affordable (!) second hand unit. But there is no community for that rif. The Facebook groups are hard to navigate. Information is lost and people seem genuinely disinterested in helping each other out. 

 

[Davegolf]

It is strange how people are around differing products, activities and interests with regard to friendliness and help!

 

[ajumma]

HPA tapping your MWS mags when it gets really cold shouldn’t be such heresy lol. I’ve run my MWS at 3-4°C on Coleman propane with fairly good results, but I was semi only and purposely firing more sparingly that usual. I tried running it at -1°C with black gas and it was not useable at all, although at that time I didn’t have Coleman propane and had to use Nuprol 4.0.

Given that hotter gas is kind of pricey compared to something like abbey ultraair (£5 a can in the UK), and if you already have hpa taps lying about, I don’t see a problem with tapping the mags for a couple games. It’ll be way cheaper (or free if you have a bicycle pump/refill station), and you’ll get perfect consistency deep into the negative temps.

 

[alxndrhll]

HPA tapping your MWS mags when it gets really cold shouldn’t be such heresy lol. I’ve run my MWS at 3-4°C on Coleman propane with fairly good results, but I was semi only and purposely firing more sparingly that usual. I tried running it at -1°C with black gas and it was not useable at all, although at that time I didn’t have Coleman propane and had to use Nuprol 4.0.

Given that hotter gas is kind of pricey compared to something like abbey ultraair (£5 a can in the UK), and if you already have hpa taps lying about, I don’t see a problem with tapping the mags for a couple games. It’ll be way cheaper (or free if you have a bicycle pump/refill station), and you’ll get perfect consistency deep into the negative temps.

As someone that used primarily HPA with an engine rather than tapping for the 2/3 years ahead of the various lockdowns happening I'll never understand how people skirmish with tapped RIFs. One of the biggest reason for picking up a GBBR and dealing with the minor inconveniences (some of which are blown way out of proportion/consideration) is the added element of realism leading to further 'immersion'. The two biggest contributing factors to that increased realism because recoil/feedback and reloads. The moment you tether it to yourself, and add disconnect line at the start of a reload and reconnect line at the end of a reload you're taking what is largely considered the biggest disadvantage of running a GBBR (that being mag capacity) and exacerbating it by making reloads harder. Alongside that you're also making reloads decidedly less realistic... and that's before considering the fact you have a droopy line by your side the entire time.

But yeah, I'm not sure I'd say it lands in full on heresy... but it is entirely counter to the reason many choose to run a GBBR in the first place, hence why it's meet with raised eyebrows and pitchforks.

 

[ajumma]

As someone that used primarily HPA with an engine rather than tapping for the 2/3 years ahead of the various lockdowns happening I'll never understand how people skirmish with tapped RIFs. One of the biggest reason for picking up a GBBR and dealing with the minor inconveniences (some of which are blown way out of proportion/consideration) is the added element of realism leading to further 'immersion'. The two biggest contributing factors to that increased realism because recoil/feedback and reloads. The moment you tether it to yourself, and add disconnect line at the start of a reload and reconnect line at the end of a reload you're taking what is largely considered the biggest disadvantage of running a GBBR (that being mag capacity) and exacerbating it by making reloads harder. Alongside that you're also making reloads decidedly less realistic... and that's before considering the fact you have a droopy line by your side the entire time.

But yeah, I'm not sure I'd say it lands in full on heresy... but it is entirely counter to the reason many choose to run a GBBR in the first place, hence why it's meet with raised eyebrows and pitchforks.

I mean don't get me wrong, I totally agree with you on the negatives here. Apparently Gunsmodify will make CO2 (Devil Hunter maybe?) version of their PMAGs, which will be perfect for when there's temperatures low enough that green gas/propane completely fails.

Tapping your GBBR mags should only really be an absolute worst case scenario/last resort situation.

My MWS was completely unusable with black gas at -1°C. If I had to decide between being not being able to play at all vs spending 3 minutes tapping mags and dealing with a line temporarily, I would rather play and use the taps, especially if I already had the taps and the HPA setup. This also doesn't take into consideration that in Sweden the price of Nuprol 4.0 was more than double that of regular ol' green gas, meaning you could end up spending $30-40 in gas over the course of just one day, which is pretty steep imo. Yeah, adding disconnecting+reconnecting lines when reloading, and having to lug around a tank on your bank sucks major ass, but is it worse than not being able to play at all because your gun doesn't work?

 

[alxndrhll]

I mean don't get me wrong, I totally agree with you on the negatives here. Apparently Gunsmodify will make CO2 (Devil Hunter maybe?) version of their PMAGs, which will be perfect for when there's temperatures low enough that green gas/propane completely fails.

Tapping your GBBR mags should only really be an absolute worst case scenario/last resort situation.

My MWS was completely unusable with black gas at -1°C. If I had to decide between being not being able to play at all vs spending 3 minutes tapping mags and dealing with a line temporarily, I would rather play and use the taps, especially if I already had the taps and the HPA setup. This also doesn't take into consideration that in Sweden the price of Nuprol 4.0 was more than double that of regular ol' green gas, meaning you could end up spending $30-40 in gas over the course of just one day, which is pretty steep imo. Yeah, adding disconnecting+reconnecting lines when reloading, and having to lug around a tank on your bank sucks major ass, but is it worse than not being able to play at all because your gun doesn't work?

It's hard for me to be able to answer that entirely loaded question honestly because that's simply not a temperature we're likely to encounter over here in the near future (assuming the various gradual bullshit going on with global weather doesn't accerate that is).

For you, already having sunk the expense of tanks, taps, a regulator and a way of filling said tanks sure it financially makes sense. For me, in the unlikely event I encounter weather conditions the MWS won't run over here, I'd rather have an AEG back up than go through the faff.

TLDR - We'll likely always have opposing opinions because you have a problem I don't have. And if i were to, I'd solve it differently.

 

[Groot]

advice please based on the latest available science. 
 

View attachment 75507

Putting in one of those brass nubs and I have got a spare Maple 50 autobot.

Giving I want to build a dmr running .45s

Use that or stock rubber?

 

[GothicGhost]

You’re more than welcome to justify your choice as much as you wish, I just wanted to highlight that you’re making a claim that HPA is going to improve something that it isn’t. I’d strongly recommend you do some proper research and weigh up the positives and negatives. I’m not intending to entirely come across as a prick here (while fully aware I am), but given you’re statement in your previous post it leaps out to me that you perhaps don’t know exactly what running a RIF on HPA entails.

I dare say you’re far more worried about the cold weather than you should be, but it seems you’ve got your mind set on it so I won’t waste any further breath.

My final piece of advice being, once you’ve tarnished those poor mags with HPA taps I’d probably avoid putting photos of them in here. Lest you be bombarded with ‘Careful Nows’ and burn the witch gifs… and that’s assuming the folks decide to keep it civil ?. As always, you do you, but it’s probably for the best that you know what to expect.

I do understand the negatives, but I've always wanted a HPA setup not just for mws, I don't mind the tether or the tank.

I guess I need to try it and see how I get on with it.

Thanks ?

 

[ajumma]

I do understand the negatives, but I've always wanted a HPA setup not just for mws, I don't mind the tether or the tank.

I guess I need to try it and see how I get on with it.

Thanks ?

Like I said, there is a use case here where it is too cold for any kind of propane based gas and you really want to use your MWS, HPA is the only option ?

It’ll be clunky to operate but you’ll get an awesome and consistent fps even in the coldest environments.  

 

[Kerberos]

https://www.opticsplanet.com/vism-barrel-nut-wrench-for-m-p-15-22-22lr.html

Sorry folks I know this has been covered but can somebody confirm this is suitable to remove the barrel nut on a Mk 18 please?

EDIT : just noticed that is not shipping to the United Kingdom ( asking for a mate)

Any suggestions for one that we can get hold of quicker in the uk please?

I know from experience that this effective at removing the Mk18 barrel nut. https://www.brownells.co.uk/MP-15-22-BARREL-NUT-WRENCH-TACTICOOL22-100015709. Just need to give it a few taps with a hammer to get it seated, but I've removed 2 Mk18 rails with it (with a generous amount of heat).

 

[hunter511]

Evening gentlemen.

Been a while. Finally built up a longer second upper.

350-400mm inner barrel. What brand and diameter and why?

Eyed up an EdGI stainless... But £130 notes is a bit strong to say the least. An ML crazy jet (£50) seems okay procewise but my previous experience with them suggests they aren't the "bestest barrel evah" that I've seen them claimed to be.

Stock TM VSR barrel any good?

Honestly all I want is an inner barrel setup that doesnt stop half way up the outer. Ideally allowing a slightly tighter group out to woodland ranges on .28s/.3s or similar

 

[Cyberlawyer]

I have Crazy Jets in two of my longer barrel builds and have found them to be pretty good, but If you use them you really need to pair them with a maple leaf rubber and omega hop nub to get the best out of them, and the hop rubber needs a millimetre taken off the tab with a razor blade so it seats in the hop unit properly.

If you use the brass nub and modify tan rubber which is well regarded in these parts then the Crazy Jet will be mediocre at best and there are several barrels that feature in these pages that are a better bet.

 

[HorribleSkrub]

So I have been doing some experimenting wit the MWS ever since I ran into my overhop issue. For those who don't know, essentially while firing, something is causing the hop dial to turn back, applying drastic amounts of hop with each shot. For reference, I use 0.32 g BB's and propane. The following is a list of upgrade parts I have installed:

- G&P Roller Bolt (replaces the stock end piece on the bolt carrier for one with bearings)

- SixG super nub

- SixG high speed buffer

- Modify tan bucking

Of all these parts, the only one I could see affecting the hop dial might be the roller bolt, as it could have misaligned the bolt carrier and cause it to interfere with the hop dial. Aside from the nub and bucking, I removed the upgrade parts and reinstalled the stock ones. This did not solve any issues.

When testing it out, I set the dial back by 14 clicks (out of the approximately 21 clicks the dial can move). Inserting a new magazine and charging it, within 5 shots do the BB's begin to overhop. I remove the magazine, and observe that the dial is mostly, if not all the way turned to maximum hop. After resetting the dial to 14, the rest of the magazine fires consistently, sometimes with an added click or two of the dial. After the magazine finishes, a new one is inserted, and the bolt release is pressed. Then again, within 5 shots does the dial get pushed back. This leads me to believe that whatever manual input of loading a round (charging the bolt/pressing the release lever) leads to the dial being forced back.

Honestly I'm dumbfounded as to what is causing this issue. I've tried removing the hop adjuster and retightening the dial screw. It's seated perfectly fine in the upper receiver as well. If I get desperate enough I may just fill part of the dial cavity with epoxy to create a "hard stop" for the hop up. Either that or try switching it out with the one Guns Modify makes, but I'm not sure what else I could do. If anyone has any suggestions or similar experiences, please let me know. 

 

[SSPKali]

3 hours ago, HorribleSkrub said:If I get desperate enough I may just fill part of the dial cavity with epoxy to create a "hard stop" for the hop up. Either that or try switching it out with the one Guns Modify makes, but I'm not sure what else I could do. If anyone has any suggestions or similar experiences, please let me know. 

I would look at using some electrical wire of a suitable size to make a hard stop in the hop wheel so at least you can dig it out and replace if needed ?Silicone covered wire of a suitable diameter should press in nicely and hold.

Before getting to that stage I would try putting a drop of water base paint on the exposed part of the hop dial and cycling the gun while it is still wet. Then stop and take out the bolt and see if there is any transfer. It has to be something either pressing on the wheel or vibrating it round and I am not sure that such a small, light part could be moved by such low frequency vibrations as the bolt cycling.

Let us know how you get on!

 

[hunter511]

I have Crazy Jets in two of my longer barrel builds and have found them to be pretty good, but If you use them you really need to pair them with a maple leaf rubber and omega hop nub to get the best out of them, and the hop rubber needs a millimetre taken off the tab with a razor blade so it seats in the hop unit properly.

If you use the brass nub and modify tan rubber which is well regarded in these parts then the Crazy Jet will be mediocre at best and there are several barrels that feature in these pages that are a better bet.

So omega tensioner, yellow autobot and a 410mm barrel should be good to go then?

 

[Davegolf]

This is a good barrel for the money

https://www.socomtactical.net/prometheus-370mm-m4a1-mws-6-03mm-barrel/

PS you are not getting any more range or accuracy from a barrel once you exceed 300mm, only FPS increase 

 

[Cyberlawyer]

So omega tensioner, yellow autobot and a 410mm barrel should be good to go then?

That setup would certainly work and I have run similar before. Personally I prefer the deception rubber for consistency, and as I will always be down tuning the FPS with my NPAs to get to site requirements I'm not bothered that it requires slightly more barrel intrusion to hop any given weight of BB.

 

[hunter511]

One final question if I may. Has anyone tried the firefly hop rubbers with the MWS, I know that soft is normally the option for sub DMR FPS guns but is there a limit on what soft will hop weighhtwise. 

Or (After all that) is the modify tan a better option?

 

[Cyberlawyer]

No personal experience with firefly hop rubbers, but in general soft hop rubbers perform really well in DMRs they just have a relatively short life span.

The modify tan itself is very soft, this is one of the reasons it is so ‘grippy’ and works so well.

I often use a 50 degree maple leaf in my DMR, with great results, but a rubber will only last a handful of game days. I don’t spout on about it because I don’t feel it’s right to recommend something with such a short working life.

One of the reasons I went to Maple leafs in my DMR was that the modify tans don’t last that long at DMR FPS and a while ago they became very hard to source. The availability seems to have improved now, but they are still a couple of quid a rubber more than the maple leaf which really adds up especially when l have to pay shipping on top when the MLs are available locally.