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THE TM MWS thread

One final question if I may. Has anyone tried the firefly hop rubbers with the MWS, I know that soft is normally the option for sub DMR FPS guns but is there a limit on what soft will hop weighhtwise. 

Or (After all that) is the modify tan a better option?
Give it a go and report back. I’d be interested to see the results. I run a fire fly hop in one of my recoils and it’s simply outstanding. Only drawback is when installing it’s got to be perfect due to the ganglia of the hop. If you have one you’ll know what I mean ;)  

 
Has anyone experimented with using using a longer inner barrel and npas to keep the FPS down. My hypothesis is that it should give better consistency and gas efficiency. I imagine these benefits would be marginal at best but the real improvements should be reduced wear on the hop rubber meaning you can use a softer rubber for longer

 
Has anyone experimented with using using a longer inner barrel and npas to keep the FPS down. My hypothesis is that it should give better consistency and gas efficiency. I imagine these benefits would be marginal at best but the real improvements should be reduced wear on the hop rubber meaning you can use a softer rubber for longer


@quango2k has done this and is very pleased with the results. 

 
I think I want to see Badabing’s review and some aftermarket options before making a purchase. What I like about our MWS is that you can have spare bolts, uppers and lowers to switch things around and as backup in case something unfortunate happens. The AKM seems more cumbersome and without these options for quick modularity 

but then it’s also an AKM which clicks when empty... but I’m sure there will be after market parts by guns modify and such that turns it into an AK74

edit. But that Saiga might be a good buddy for the MWS!!

 
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I have been to a skirmish today and learnt something valuable about the MWS…….It much prefers Abbey ultra predator over Nuprol 2.0.

Since last October I have run my MWS on nuprol 2.0 (green can) and I was instantly impressed by the range and accuracy but not the full auto, almost to the point where I thought it’s pointless this gun having a full auto. I even tried in hot temperature all 6 mags didn’t want to cycle on full auto.

 First time today I switched to Abbey ultra predator (red can) and just wow!!!! It’s like a completely different gun. Won’t be using nuprol 2.0 ever again on this weapon system.

 
Any suggestions, apart from Impulse101 or Eagle Six, where I can pick up a hop click pin spring? Nudged the hop wheel earlier when reassembling and mine fucked off into the beyond. 

 
I have been to a skirmish today and learnt something valuable about the MWS…….It much prefers Abbey ultra predator over Nuprol 2.0.

Since last October I have run my MWS on nuprol 2.0 (green can) and I was instantly impressed by the range and accuracy but not the full auto, almost to the point where I thought it’s pointless this gun having a full auto. I even tried in hot temperature all 6 mags didn’t want to cycle on full auto.

 First time today I switched to Abbey ultra predator (red can) and just wow!!!! It’s like a completely different gun. Won’t be using nuprol 2.0 ever again on this weapon system.
Red gas runs at higher pressure than green/nuprol 2.0, so I would be wary of accelerated wear on weak parts like the nozzle spring and buffer. Aside from those though, it’s perfectly safe to use red gas depending on the ambient temperature. 

I used Nuprol 3.0 between 4 and 12°C with great success. I stuck to nuprol 2.0 between 12-20 though with no problems!

 
Red gas runs at higher pressure than green/nuprol 2.0, so I would be wary of accelerated wear on weak parts like the nozzle spring and buffer. Aside from those though, it’s perfectly safe to use red gas depending on the ambient temperature. 

I used Nuprol 3.0 between 4 and 12°C with great success. I stuck to nuprol 2.0 between 12-20 though with no problems!
Isn’t the red can of abbey equivalent of green gas?

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Isn’t the red can of abbey equivalent of green gas?
They're both the same gas but the red is at higher pressure which can cause damage if used in a weapon not designed for it. (ie. TM)

 
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Ok, it’s official, the TM MWS has ruined AEGs for me!

Had a great day at UCAP VENDETTA running my MWS with Spitfire tracer and Vortex red dot. 2 spare mags and a 90rd speed loader for “walk back to respawn top-ups” saw me through a couple of games easy with ASG Ultrair gas and Longbow tracer 0.30g BBs.

I switched to my heavily customised Cyma MP5 for exactly one game…feel was “off” and zero feedback on taking a shot. Accuracy was ok for CQB but not on the long open stretches outside. Seemed to burn through ammo to try and compensate. I’ll keep it for really close in stuff like StrikeForce and Bristol Courthouse.

Went back to the MWS and even got a guy 45m away hiding behind a trailer, only his feet and lower shins showing ?

We won’t mention the shot from 5m back, through a 10cm hole in a door into the marshals crotch ? TBF there was a blue hiding behind it and taunting us!

 
GBBR have a role and a realism aspect, but a well tuned AEG will be beat them in every way. Except in super heavy rain, where electrics do not fair very well. 

GBBR's have a cool realism aspect you will not get on all but the very highest end GBLS M4. Which cost around 3-4 times more than an MWS. Even then, the GBBR has the realism edge and a nicer trigger. 

But you will have to deal with gas temps, purging mags, higher maintenance and much lower ammo counts. All while carrying mags, which weigh a lot more and are relatively fragile compared to an AEG Midcap. 

I am still yet to be won over by my MWS, which I hope will happen by turning it into a 1.88J DMR running 0.45s 

I want to love it, but i would rather win

 
Speedsofter...

 
I have been to a skirmish today and learnt something valuable about the MWS…….It much prefers Abbey ultra predator over Nuprol 2.0.

Since last October I have run my MWS on nuprol 2.0 (green can) and I was instantly impressed by the range and accuracy but not the full auto, almost to the point where I thought it’s pointless this gun having a full auto. I even tried in hot temperature all 6 mags didn’t want to cycle on full auto.

 First time today I switched to Abbey ultra predator (red can) and just wow!!!! It’s like a completely different gun. Won’t be using nuprol 2.0 ever again on this weapon system.
Personally anything Nuprol... sod that!

But going back to Abbey predator the MWS can easily take it as the platform is designed to handle more than the duster gas the Japanese use. The only thing to be worried about is the joules creep... especially at temps above 22c.  Mine was hitting 360fps at that temperature a while back... so I switched to the abbey green and came down to around 330-340fps.. However as a few others above have said the extra pressures may lead to the weakest part buggering up which in this case is the nozzle spring... Easy fix though.. switch it out to a much stronger Eagle6 spring... also get SixG's HSB buffer to give added protection as you don't want the B buffer part to disintegrate :D

But yeah, Abbey pred is sure as hell fun to use :D

 
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Hey guys, it's been a long time since I've posted anything, but thought Id ask a few questions or atleast get some opinions.

So I've had my mws for 2 years now, done so much shooting it's not even fair use at this point (50 cans of red) and it has done a metric tonne of bbs. (not really but you get my point)

I have found that my trigger has broken in and is much better then it was 2 years ago, but it's leaves me some what wanting.

Now I broke my disconnector where it engages the auto sear (around 10,000 rounds ago.) And thought I'll get round to replacing it when I change the trigger and bolt stop plate. Well that time is now as my bolt lock isn't as reliable as it should be and my trigger is failing to reset occasionally.

So my questions are what have you folks done to your trigger boxs???

Wii tech marksman sear's?

Guns modify adjustable triggers? 

Lightweight bolt catch plates? 

Maybe some precise fettling? 

Any thoughts or experience's welcome..

Thanks guys, be lucky.

 
@AlphaBear I already have a SixG nub waiting to go in, I will look into getting the buffer as well, thanks!

 I have an Eagle6 nozzle spring, It’s the  150% one, is that the stronger one you speak of? I was keeping it until the original failed, but I may just swap it out whilst I do the nub. The barrel nut tool is available again so I will purchase that and hope it arrives by weekend, I missed out on the last batch…..bloody mk18 barrel nut!

 
Hey guys, it's been a long time since I've posted anything, but thought Id ask a few questions or atleast get some opinions.

So I've had my mws for 2 years now, done so much shooting it's not even fair use at this point (50 cans of red) and it has done a metric tonne of bbs. (not really but you get my point)

I have found that my trigger has broken in and is much better then it was 2 years ago, but it's leaves me some what wanting.

Now I broke my disconnector where it engages the auto sear (around 10,000 rounds ago.) And thought I'll get round to replacing it when I change the trigger and bolt stop plate. Well that time is now as my bolt lock isn't as reliable as it should be and my trigger is failing to reset occasionally.

So my questions are what have you folks done to your trigger boxs???

Wii tech marksman sear's?

Guns modify adjustable triggers? 

Lightweight bolt catch plates? 

Maybe some precise fettling? 

Any thoughts or experience's welcome..

Thanks guys, be lucky.
My secondhand MWS had a very hard life and there was a load of gritty mud in the trigger box that had caused a lot of wear and nasty feel.

I have replaced all the parts in the trigger box with the WiiTech parts and spring set. They are really high quality and nice finish, well worth the money.
 

I tried the marksman sear but got light strikes with the safety ON followed by another light strike after I took it off and pulled the trigger again! I tried it with both the TM and WiiTech parts - same result. GET THE REGULAR SEAR!

For lubrication get a small aerosol can of Graphite lock lube (less than £10 on Amazon or Ebay) and use that. Apply to the parts as you assemble the trigger box then wipe the gun down after…and don’t wear a white t-shirt! It is messy to apply and you will need to wash your hands about 8 times but it is very low friction and won’t attract dirt and gum up the action. I have had zero issues with trigger reset or bolt locking back since using it.

 
Does anyone use the 150% nozzle return spring.

other than that I am looking for the solution to my mws not effectively cycling on full auto and when I cock it the nozzle it obviously getting stuck in the hop rubber (tan with brass nub).

hsb fitted and bolt locks on empty

no problem on semi  

 
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