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THE TM MWS thread

View attachment 64843



Since firefox doesn't like me I'll add a response lol

SAA pmag leaked overnight so i just got done putting teflon thread sealer on all the gaskets and valves but i would test the GP valve on the CAG 416D but its currently stripped down till i get a response back from blacksheep arms on cerakote prices....


 




Green upper/lower receiver and FDE on the rail, controls and buffer tube.

As it currently sits color wise.

View attachment 64842

View attachment 64841

 
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Wild Weasel said:
I'm none the wiser as which to choose, they all say 134a which is duster gas unless I'm wrong.  Has anybody got one of these and ran it on green gas on or under 350fps with a standard 250mm TM inner barrel?
Click to expand...
Check the listings on jkarmy’s website, they say which one to use depending on the length or your inner barrel. I got the 3.5 one which is supposed to be good for my stock inner barrel, but performance was not good to be honest, I went back to the original valve.

View attachment 64863

 
ajumma said:
Check the listings on jkarmy’s website, they say which one to use depending on the length or your inner barrel. I got the 3.5 one which is supposed to be good for my stock inner barrel, but performance was not good to be honest, I went back to the original valve.

View attachment 64863
Click to expand...


Can you qualify exactly what the issue was with the performance? Inconsistent  fps? Too much variance between shots? 

 
Wellllllllll the gp complete nozzle set doesn't include the piston head but the guns Modify version does.

And i left my phone/chrono in the rain sooooooo waiting for them to dry out

 
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I have this daydream which I guess needs to be crushed. It’s of an injection moulded magazine for the MWS just like the polymer glock magazine from WE Tech. Lightweight and with the same reliance as the original. 
 

how does one proceed with such an idea? Has reversed engineering come so far that you could 3D scan the outer shell of the Marui mag and make a mould for polymer? Alternatively 3D print polymer with heat sunk thread inserts for the valves? 
 

...the whole affair sounds terribly costly but I can’t stop thinking about having these lightweight IPSC mags for the MWS. 

 
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AlphaBear said:
Can you qualify exactly what the issue was with the performance? Inconsistent  fps? Too much variance between shots? 
Click to expand...
There were a few issues I’ve had with my valve.
 

Firstly, the translucent plastic adjusting screw was so tight fitting in it’s threads that the provided metal tool to adjust it did a lot of damage when adjusting, especially when performing the adjustment with it installed inside the nozzle. During testing, to adjust FPS, I had to disassembly the whole damn bolt to take the valve out then very carefully screw in/out to prevent further stripping, which was a major pain in the ass. 
 

Secondly, with the valve at its maximum setting I got to 1.3 joules, 102m/s with 0.25, and found that it was not consistent either. For example, with a fully gassed up mag I could get 102, then 95, then 103, then 94. Compared to the stock valve which barely has a deviation of 2m/s for me. It could be that this is because the valve was in a position where it was “too maxed out”, but for me the whole point of installing the valve was to reach the 5m minimum engagement distance limits here in Sweden (1.7j) so it’s not fit for my requirements.  
 

But there is someone here who uses the valve and has good performance, so I wonder if mine is a lemon or if it’s not the right one for my barrel length? I followed the guide on jkarmy for which one to get but maybe getting a valve for a longer inner barrel in order to over-gas the system and get more joule creep would be better. 

 
ajumma said:
There were a few issues I’ve had with my valve.
 

Firstly, the translucent plastic adjusting screw was so tight fitting in it’s threads that the provided metal tool to adjust it did a lot of damage when adjusting, especially when performing the adjustment with it installed inside the nozzle. During testing, to adjust FPS, I had to disassembly the whole damn bolt to take the valve out then very carefully screw in/out to prevent further stripping, which was a major pain in the ass. 
 

Secondly, with the valve at its maximum setting I got to 1.3 joules, 102m/s with 0.25, and found that it was not consistent either. For example, with a fully gassed up mag I could get 102, then 95, then 103, then 94. Compared to the stock valve which barely has a deviation of 2m/s for me. It could be that this is because the valve was in a position where it was “too maxed out”, but for me the whole point of installing the valve was to reach the 5m minimum engagement distance limits here in Sweden (1.7j) so it’s not fit for my requirements.  
 

But there is someone here who uses the valve and has good performance, so I wonder if mine is a lemon or if it’s not the right one for my barrel length? I followed the guide on jkarmy for which one to get but maybe getting a valve for a longer inner barrel in order to over-gas the system and get more joule creep would be better. 
Click to expand...




Hey,

That may have been me. I have the 4.5 adjustable valve and have not had an issue. Have skirmished it around 5-6 times now. I have a 3.5 valve on order as I'm converting to a MK18 version, with a G&P re-inforced drop Nozzle and HAO bolt to go with that (when it all arrives).

I have not had any issue adjusting the nylon screw with the tiny screwdriver. The valve for me is also not even close to max open. It's generally arousn 1/3rd at most.

Here's a link to a previous post of mine that had a couple of photos.




 
Honestly I don’t get it guys. You keep buying that overpriced shit and completely ignore the easiest way. I made my own DIY npas using a set screw and the original valve and it’s consistent and easy to adjust. Also for those looking for a high FPS, with 370 barrel and the Vfc mp5 gbb nozzle I’m getting 2.6J with 0.30g and it’s also consistent but uses much more gas as it sits higher in the initial position so needs more time to close the nozzle = pushes more gas into the barrel.

 
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jsmithski said:
Honestly I don’t get it guys. You keep buying that overpriced shit and completely ignore the easiest way. I did my own DIY npas using a set screw and the original valve and it’s consistent and easy to adjust. Also for those looking for a high FPS, with 370 barrel and the Vfc mp5 gbb nozzle I’m getting 2.6J with 0.30g and it’s also consistent but uses much more gas as it sits higher in the initial position so needs more time to close the nozzle = pushes more gas into the barrel.
Click to expand...


You do have a very good point here... Maybe our expectations are too high and the simple approach is better. The valve is less than £10 from eagle6 so maybe this is the way to go... Can you show us some pics of the mod if you don't mind?

 
Hi all 

New to gbbrs 

just bought an MTR 16

I've emails sixg for the brass nub just waiting to hear back 

I've got tan modify buckings 

Anything else I need or should do 

Cheers 

 
Silly question time!

am I correct in saying that I absolutely have to remove the barrel to access the hop unit?

and I need the Laylax ngrs barrel nut tool?? (To do it properly.... I am a engineer... correct tool for correct job etc)

 
Cat182 said:
Hi all 

New to gbbrs 

just bought an MTR 16

I've emails sixg for the brass nub just waiting to hear back 

I've got tan modify buckings 

Anything else I need or should do 

Cheers 
Click to expand...


Nope, that's all..... just don't use crappy bb's! Enjoy the gun when lockdown finishes....

sp00n said:
Silly question time!

am I correct in saying that I absolutely have to remove the barrel to access the hop unit?

and I need the Laylax ngrs barrel nut tool?? (To do it properly.... I am a engineer... correct tool for correct job etc)
Click to expand...


Yes, that is correct, you have to remove the barrel to access the hop unit.... it's not like a next gen recoil where you simply slide the upper receiver off... yes it really sucks!

And yes, get the proper wrench... the Laylax one....  

 
AlphaBear said:
You do have a very good point here... Maybe our expectations are too high and the simple approach is better. The valve is less than £10 from eagle6 so maybe this is the way to go... Can you show us some pics of the mod if you don't mind?
Click to expand...
Sure. You just drill and thread the valve for m4 set screw. It works as any other npas. Ideally the screw shout be flat not spiked but that’s not a big deal. Anyway, this works but can only decrease FPS. If you want more FPS you need a different valve (like the vfc mp5 one) or use a longer valve spring with the mws valve (around 50% longer).

View attachment 64886

View attachment 64887

 
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Arassuil said:
Hey,

That may have been me. I have the 4.5 adjustable valve and have not had an issue. Have skirmished it around 5-6 times now. I have a 3.5 valve on order as I'm converting to a MK18 version, with a G&P re-inforced drop Nozzle and HAO bolt to go with that (when it all arrives).

I have not had any issue adjusting the nylon screw with the tiny screwdriver. The valve for me is also not even close to max open. It's generally arousn 1/3rd at most.
Click to expand...
Huh, I see! I'm not sure why I had such bad results from mine. I think I will try to pick up one of those HAO Ecoline bolts and some aftermarket nozzle set to install the valve into, and give it another try.

Was there any reasoning as to why you bought the 4.5 valve? Inner barrel length?

EDIT: I just realised you already said above in the post you linked that your barrel is 370mm. Mine is around 270mm so the 3.5 valve is apparently the correct one. I'd like to try this valve again though, since your results with it is very consistent.

 
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