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THE TM MWS thread

I wouldn’t personally change anything on the mags as they’re magic. The o ring rocket posted will do the job though. 

 
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I'll get on that now. Cheers guys. Gonna follow Wolf's guide on maintenance and grab that chain fluid stuff from amazon.
It’s great stuff. If you’re going for a different brand, just make sure it’s the dry Teflon/ptfe. Otherwise you may end up with a mess

 
Have noticed during my last couple of games that my bbs are shooting out of the MWS with a side to side wobble. 

Any ideas?! 


Most likely dirt or dead bucking: clean out barrel, check bucking isn't contaminated and is clean, check the BBs aren't picking up dirt from inside the mags.

 
found this pressure chart for MAPP:



and comparing this with the Nuprol chart above, it would seem that MAPP is a bit more powerful than Nuprol 3.0 but less powerful than Nuprol 4.0

at 10 C degrees:

MAPP      113 psia (psia is psi absolute, which means 124.7 psi at see level because +14.7 atmospheric pressure)   
Nuprol 3   111  (if it's psi or 125.7 if those figures are in psia)
Nuprol 4    136  (if it's psi or 150.7 if those figures are in psia)

Any thoughts on this ?
The pressure is similar, but what’s important is the boiling point of MAP is lt boils about 10 degrees lower than propane/green gas. This means it can still function at a much lower temp. The boiling point of the gas is a key factor in cooldown. 

 
The pressure is similar, but what’s important is the boiling point of MAP is lt boils about 10 degrees lower than propane/green gas. This means it can still function at a much lower temp. The boiling point of the gas is a key factor in cooldown. 


Just wow!

Where is the real @Wo1f that answer was too techie :D

 
MAP gas is made by syphoning the farts of Tokyo Marui’s lead GBBR designer on Christmas Day, after a whole month of eating nothing but sprouts and sushi. This explains its magical properties as well as that awful smell.  

@Davegolf better? ?

 
Tnx for the answers ... so yeah, either stinky MAPP or those "magic" tabs then. Probably going to try the tabs. Meanwhile, my TM M9A1 arrived, pretty pretty pistol :) Random tip: I got and IMI defense polymer holster for it and it didn't quite fit. It would go in, but forcefully so I fixed it by putting the holster in the oven at 60 C, leaving it a good while and then sliding the gun repeatedly in/out and finishing with putting the holster with the gun in it, in the fridge, for the thing to cool down and retain the new shape. Works perfectly now

 
Just ordered that SixG nub but I'm trying to track down the modify tan buckings? Can you only get them abroad? 

Also, I saw a video on someone with the same issue of bb's getting stuck in the magazine and apparently you have to take a file to a couple spots but they didn't explain it very well so lets hope I don't go and **** it.

 
I got mine from skirmshopUK. They often refund the postage on something so small at the end of the week too. 

Be careful filing down. You don’t want to make anything rough. If you’re gonna do it, use really fine sandpaper. 

 
I got mine from skirmshopUK. They often refund the postage on something so small at the end of the week too. 

Be careful filing down. You don’t want to make anything rough. If you’re gonna do it, use really fine sandpaper. 


Does it have a special mound on the inside? I was fully expecting the maple leaf's to kill it with range and accuracy so was suprised that they didn't perform very well on the posts in this thread.

 
Does it have a special mound on the inside? I was fully expecting the maple leaf's to kill it with range and accuracy so was suprised that they didn't perform very well on the posts in this thread.
Nothing special that I can see. I think it’s just the material. I’ve had fantastic luck with maple leaf, but I found with my Orga barrel at least, it cuts into the tip of the contact patch. It worked great one minute, and bad the next. You may have much better success with a different barrel

 
Nothing special that I can see. I think it’s just the material. I’ve had fantastic luck with maple leaf, but I found with my Orga barrel at least, it cuts into the tip of the contact patch. It worked great one minute, and bad the next. You may have much better success with a different barrel


I was thinking of sticking with the original barrel as the TM barrels are pretty good. Either that or an edgi/pdi barrel as replacement but I don't think I'll be doing much with the orga stuff. 

Has anyone tried the "Super" buckings by maple leaf?

 
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K, so FINALLY my MWS is en route, should arrive tomorrow. Already I am thinking of upgrades :)  and the 1st thing that I want to change is the barrel, it just itches my brain to have 12 cm of nothingness in the outer barrel, so I will go for a Prometheus/Laylax 370 cm 6.03 stainless steel beauty and I would like to kindly ask what changes can I expect ... I am planning to use .25/.28 BBs max, so probably will not change the hopup system. I assume the obvious effect will be an increase in FPS (wo1f was sayin smth about 35-40 for a 6.03 250 mm barrel ?) . How about accuracy, joule creep ? How about gas consumption ? will it go up/down ?other unforeseen consequences ? ... tnx

 
I was thinking of sticking with the original barrel as the TM barrels are pretty good. Either that or an edgi/pdi barrel as replacement but I don't think I'll be doing much with the orga stuff. 

Has anyone tried the "Super" buckings by maple leaf?
Personally I prefer the decepticon. Contact patch is larger and it has an anti-rotation lug. They perform similarly however. 

@j_brujah if you’re only ever going to run .25-.28, leave the whole gun alone other than externals and green gas mod. With a longer barrel, you’ll see a jump in FPS/joules. If you’re trying to keep it to 350fps and using sub .28 ammo, nothing you change internally will have a noticeable positive effect on performance. 

However... if you want long range performance and accuracy, or even a DMR, then barrel and bucking mods are well worth it. A barrel will give you the ‘free’ FPS boost and the bucking will allow heavier BB’s to be used. The more energy you can transfer to a heavy (.32 minimum) BB, the more range and accuracy you’ll get. 

 
Let's see if I get this right. Using .28s let's say, even with the longer barrel, I will see an increase in FPS but not in range/accuracy, because the BBs are too light and will just fall anyway at the same-ish distance ?

 
Let's see if I get this right. Using .28s let's say, even with the longer barrel, I will see an increase in FPS but not in range/accuracy, because the BBs are too light and will just fall anyway at the same-ish distance ?
You’ll see an increase in FPS, but why would you want that? You’d probably be over the limits. Mine shot 340fps out of the box on green gas. With a longer barrel you’ll be looking at 370-390fps. You’ll get more range, but you wouldn’t be able to use it. 

From my understanding about range and accuracy, it works like this... let’s say your Mws shoots 350fps on a .20 and you fire a .28 out of it. You dial the hop up to give you the flattest trajectory and that will give you a range and accuracy reading. To get out further you either need to increase the FPS or increase the hop. (Hop is the most important. A 350fps gun set up well will shoot further than a 500fps gun if it can’t apply a good amount of hop.) so you increase the hop pressure and your .28 BB curves up to the moon, making it useless. The only way to balance that extra back spin effect is to increase the BB weight, which will counteract the Magnus effect you’re applying with the hop.

In an ideal world, to get the most range and accuracy, you want the heaviest BB your gun can hop enough to shoot straight. That’s why I upgrade the hop up buckings in everything. Take the MK23 pistol. Mine shoots 305-310 FPS. But it has the ability to hop a .45 bb, giving it great range. Heavier the BB, the more energy it retains for longer and the further it will travel. 

 
that makes a lot of sense actually, I never thought of the relation between fps/hopup/bb weight... TNX. And this is extended by hop-up style/rubber hardness and so on ... Anyway, I already ordered the barrel and an RA npas, the shop had only 2 left so I was like ... why not :)  And for limits, I think I have 400 fps available to me so for now I will probably stay with the longer barrel and the 25s or 28s, get a feel for the gun, how it shoots/hops and so on. Also, I need to stop buying stuff for a while, otherwise my significant other will probably start using the guns .... on me :P

 
If you’re allowed 400 FPS, .36-.43 will give you very impressive range, assuming you can hop the B.B.  one of my MWS is set as a DMR 390fps and will reach out to 70-80m 

 
Wait, won't increasing the BB weight drop the fps ? Or this is where the "infamous" joule creep ... creeps in ?

Later edit : never mind, I thought you said 390 FPS with the heavy BBs but I assume it's 390 with .2s 

Also, to understand your previous post:

Ideal shot = Ideal FPS+Ideally weighted BB @ Ideal hop spin

and from here onward, increasing the FPS will make the  BB  travel faster but becoming unstable because it doesn't receive enough hop spin for that speed but then, if compensating with more hop spin, the BB will shoot to the moon as you said, because it's too light, hence a heavier BB is required but then the default TM bucking/nub are too soft to actually apply the hop spin and then we need a tougher rubber/sturdier nub .... that's the gist of it, right ?

 
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