Airsoft-Ed
Retired Moderator
- Nov 7, 2010
- 4,164
- 941
- Thread starter
- #21
Yeah, that's what I was trying to promote with my last paragraph in the OP. ^_^If this is a general gbbr thread, are we good to put up pictures of our own?
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Yeah, that's what I was trying to promote with my last paragraph in the OP. ^_^If this is a general gbbr thread, are we good to put up pictures of our own?
Come on, you should all know by now that I'm pretty retarded.Yeah, that's what I was trying to promote with my last paragraph in the OP. ^_^
it is exactly the same with AEG's, as in AEG's as its a compressed air charge vrs barrel length vrs barrel diameter etc.One thing people who are moving to GBBRs need to be aware of is, unlike with an AEG, changing barrel length will change the power. The longer the gas can expand in the barrel the more power you get - so reduce the barrel size and you'll get a drop in FPS. Increasing mine by 4" (using the GHK G5 carbine kit) increased my fps by ~25-30 with 0.20g pellets. There is a limit to the increase - if the barrel is long enough for the released gas to completely expand then the pellet will reach maximum velocity before exiting the barrel - not sure how long ti would need to be though, I suspect far too long to be usable.
It's not that much more when you factor in that you're firing a few hundred rounds as opposed to the odd thousand each time. With gbbrs I can make a 3000 rd bottle last about 7+ game days- Most aeg users will struggle to get 3 so the savings work out quite well, especially if you're running propane rather than green or other 'airsoft' gas.ill admit i was/am majorly put off buy the cost of gas ... and i was/am a major advocate of AEG/AEP's ....... but i am looking at a WE MP5A3 B)
tempted to buy a gas gun in the summer, might look into a GHKAs far as AKs go - GHK is the only choice really, the standard WE offering isn't upto much OOTB and requires upgrading. For roughly the same price a GHK will run beautifully out of the box. Best gun I ever bought
As Marcus said, I use hella expensive ammo, costs me £12 a bag for only 2000, but it lasts me about 3 game days, so £4 per game day on ammo, and about £7 on gas based on a £9 propane canister lasting me a little over one game day = about £11 per game day on gas and ammo.it is exactly the same with AEG's, as in AEG's as its a compressed air charge vrs barrel length vrs barrel diameter etc.
increasing barrel length = more fps, reducing barrel length = less fps etc etc
fitting a TBB = increased fps .... you get the picture:lol:
ill admit i was/am majorly put off buy the cost of gas ... and i was/am a major advocate of AEG/AEP's ....... but i am looking at a WE MP5A3 B)
I think that's a pretty good explanation Ed, cheers, I'm still baffled why sites insist on chrono-ing on 0.2s, surely it would make sense to chrono on what you intend to use and adjust the chrono for the weigh of the BB?It's a pretty hard thing to explain... So I hope that explanation makes sense...
Basically though, it means that if you don't chrono on the weight you intend to use, you will more than likely be firing hot once you load heavier ammo if you're using a gas gun.
It's just a valve with a screw through it so you can alter the overall length. The valves can move forwards and backwards and are sat under spring tension. When gas flows through it the pressure naturally closes the valve against the force of the spring, compressing it, then once the valve is closed it redirects the gas to the rear, cycling the action.I think that's a pretty good explanation Ed, cheers, I'm still baffled why sites insist on chrono-ing on 0.2s, surely it would make sense to chrono on what you intend to use and adjust the chrono for the weigh of the BB?
I know what you mean about running hot, my 416 was over 400 out of the box, the NPAS is a must! There's also a great vid on Youtube of some Japanese guy doing a power point on how an NPAS works, that makes using it a lot clearer!! lol
As Marcus said, I use hella expensive ammo, costs me £12 a bag for only 2000, but it lasts me about 3 game days, so £4 per game day on ammo, and about £7 on gas based on a £9 propane canister lasting me a little over one game day = about £11 per game day on gas and ammo.
That's only slightly worse than an AEG user buying a single pot of 3000 .25s per game day for £10. Most people will buy cheaper ammo than me so their running costs will probably be directly in line with most AEG users.
Also, going back to the whole, barrel length alters fps thing, it's actually pretty dangerous with gas guns in some cases because of Joule creep.
My L85 shipped with a 509mm long, 6.01mm tight bore and it was almost impossible to chrono safe using my ammo of choice - .28s.
I initially chrono'd using .20s to set the NPAS for 350fps, which was the site limit. Conversion charts state that firing .28s through a rifle shooting .20s at 350 ought to lower the power to around 295, but when I re-chrono'd with .28s, it was doing 335... 40fps over the limit for that weight.
So adding heavier ammo actually increased the joule output by the equivalent of 40fps...
It happens because gas guns fire significantly more gas down the barrel than needed for each shot, the mechanism sends gas forwards until the pressure closes a valve, then that valve redirects the rest of it to the back, which knocks the bolt over the hammer, knocking the hammer off the valve on the mag, which shuts off the gas supply.
Lighter ammo doesn't take as much energy to send out of the barrel, .20s probably use up around 20% of the total gas volume being sent down the barrel. So when you add heavier ammo, it takes more energy to push them out of the gun, but gas guns have that extra energy in spades! So the power just increases instead of staying the same with most AEGs.
In AEGs it doesn't happen as much because generally cylinders are ported so that the air volume of the cylinder matches that of the barrel, so it takes all the air the gun can muster just to fire a .2 out, so when you add heavier weights, the power remains the same because there's more barrel than air, the shot stops accelerating before it leaves the gun, whereas in gas guns the shot is still accelerating until it's free of the barrel.
It's a pretty hard thing to explain... So I hope that explanation makes sense...
Basically though, it means that if you don't chrono on the weight you intend to use, you will more than likely be firing hot once you load heavier ammo if you're using a gas gun.
They are different, but the longer the barrel, the more power a gas gun can put behind even a low weight shot. So the danger associated with joule creep gets amplified by longer barrels. Longer the barrel, the more gas can be applied to the shot.barrel length and joule creep are different issues, that said one can effect another ... if that makes sense :lol:
Just to be clear here, unless you are unbelievably careful about where any oil or grease is going, silicone oil is really the only stuff you should be using to lubricate your gas blowback (or even non blowback) weapons, because other types of oil or grease can attack the rubber and synthetic o-ring valve seals on your mags and weapon internals. So don't be spraying WD-40 or some stuff like that in your GBB, or you may wreck the thing and have to take it apart to replace the seals on it.Does anyone have any GBB top tips to share?
I've found with lubrication that dry cleaning and a light spray of silicon oil is better then over doing it or using grease.
Awesome tip! I've now got a serious fire in my pocket!! Have you ever imported from them? any experience on what its like with import tax/duty etc?If after GHK guns then Samoon are well worth checking out. Fantastc service, free bits and they understand our customs/VAT rules. Fast shipping too and probs cheapest G5 mags you'll find if buying in pairs!