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Switching to Deans Connectors

New soldering Iron arrived, I'll be doing my G36C this weekend.  But won't be going near the Evo until I'm 100% happy with the G36C.

Cheers

G

 
Mmm, I haven't done my G36C yet out of an abundance of caution in case it develops problems and needs to go back.  However, compared to my other AEGs with Deans, it does sound like it's struggling a bit.

Since all my batteries are Deans now, I'm having to run it with a mini-Tamiya -> Deans converter, which is likely just making it worse.  I really should just give it the snip, but... it's my only pristine gun. [fret, fret]

 
Just did mine, does sound louder and more powerful, but might be mis-remembering it. 

Certainly sounds more powerful than the Evo from the sound of the BBs hitting the target, and is a lot louder, but that could be normal.

I intentionally shortened the wires, makes it much easier to fit the hand guard back on

Cheers

G

View attachment 34731

 
Just did mine, does sound louder and more powerful, but might be mis-remembering it. 

Certainly sounds more powerful than the Evo from the sound of the BBs hitting the target, and is a lot louder, but that could be normal.

I intentionally shortened the wires, makes it much easier to fit the hand guard back on

Cheers

G

View attachment 34731
Wait till you start running it on LiPo/LiFe batts you’ll see even more of an improvement! ?

 
Just did mine, does sound louder and more powerful, but might be mis-remembering it. 

Certainly sounds more powerful than the Evo from the sound of the BBs hitting the target, and is a lot louder, but that could be normal.

I intentionally shortened the wires, makes it much easier to fit the hand guard back on

Cheers

G

View attachment 34731


No fuse ???

I like to live dangerously too, but we recommend a fuse to others just in case

If you chopped out fuse, that would have maybe helped a smidge more snap too

(less resistance/choke point)

But unless people like to take risks, a fuse should be fitted/kept

but I also sometimes walk on the cracks in the pavement when I'm feeling daring

 
No fuse ???

I like to live dangerously too, but we recommend a fuse to others just in case

If you chopped out fuse, that would have maybe helped a smidge more snap too

(less resistance/choke point)

But unless people like to take risks, a fuse should be fitted/kept

but I also sometimes walk on the cracks in the pavement when I'm feeling daring
I bought it used, and there wasn't any fuse and was told there never was a fuse when I queried it.

My G36C is by  Ares/Umarex.

From a bit of googling:

No, not all gun have a fuse. This one does not.

There are plenty of guns on the market without fuses. Ares is one of the companies that does not use a fuse assembly. They also employ a different switch design using a micro switch.


So do I need one?  If so, I'll need to do some research to see where a fuse should go.  ALso, if I installed a mosfet does it mean a fuse is no longer needed?

Cheers

G

 
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If you have a large amount of common sense

AND your wiring throughout is very sound - no crushed wires, no exposed insulation

or no risk of shorting say at motor from metal motor plate on v2's or motor frame/cage on v3's

(basically if you have rewired or checked the whole loom over to be rock solid & insulated)

Then the likely risk of any shorts is greatly greatly reduced

The sense part is if it looks/appears dodgy don't use gun/battery until investigated

or gun has bb jammed - I will keep firing

or gun has totally locked up solid - let's hold down the trigger - ergh no, best not for unwise out there

There would be no fuse to protect the whole loom - motor - lipo heating up or shorting out

In this case a fuse would deffo be required as well as a brain wired up correctly perhaps

Some - but not all mosfets have a thermal cut-out that trips like a fuse blowing at higher amps

BUT not all mosfets come with this protection as standard

IF you wish to fit a fuse the the mini blade tpes are best spliced into the positive wire near battery

likely a 20/25amp mini blade than a chunky cartridge fuse....

For those who are sad & desperate to squeeze every last possible drop of potential in their build

They will often drop the fuse and install extra caution & common sense (hopefully)

But it is not something I would publicly recommend on this forum for fear of comeback - you said........

A case of do as I say, than do as I do if you like

The final decision for installing or keeping a fuse rest solely with owner

though we as a collective recommend a fuse should be kept & perhaps installed - just in case

Know this - If there is a bad short in your gun....

it will continue to short circuit until it blows the circuit/battery or until you pull the power

 
As Duck says they are there for a reason , and a very good reason it is . 

All I would say though to balance the argument is I’ve always taken the fuse out of all my guns (as do the rest of my team mates) and in 19yrs never had an issue with any of them EVER . 

For those who are sad & desperate to squeeze every last possible drop of potential in their build

They will often drop the fuse and install extra caution & common sense (hopefully)


bit harsh mate , more than a few level headed players do this as standard to new guns .

 
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If you have a large amount of common sense


Usually yes, but in the heat of battle with 5 guys running at you, who knows ?

AND your wiring throughout is very sound - no crushed wires, no exposed insulation

or no risk of shorting say at motor from metal motor plate on v2's or motor frame/cage on v3's

(basically if you have rewired or checked the whole loom over to be rock solid & insulated)


Double and triple insulated for the bits I changed, as per the pic.  I'll do a bit more research, as this gun never had one in the first place.

Cheers

G

 
As Duck says they are there for a reason , and a very good reason it is . 

All I would say though to balance the argument is I’ve always taken the fuse out of all my guns (as do the rest of my team mates) and in 19yrs never had an issue with any of them EVER . 

bit harsh mate , more than a few level headed players do this as standard to new guns .


Not harsh at all - I run no fuse in all guns I have redone

BUT there is a risk none the less....

If you got a lipo shorting out - unlikely if you checked & trust stuff inside

but IF a lipo gun is shorting out it will continue to short until something blows

The fuse is a choke point perhaps robbing you of say 1~2 rps on a blade fuse and a smidge response

BUT it is a safety fall back point - often it may not trip asap to save some damage occurring but still

If a person is that desperate to obtain the extra snap over a safety feature - then yes I will say sad & desperate

especially on a public forum as I will not preach or promote removal of fuses to anybody viewing this thread

hence the term do as I say, not do as I do

f*ck it I'll buy/bought B6 clones, they may not be exactly 101% legit/stable as a genuine B6

but in reality loads of $hitty B3's from well known makes - cough cough Nuprol cough cough & others are $hit

Will I promote clone B6's - well except this thread where I speak honestly about my preference/choices

no I won't promote a clone B6, still say get a genuine B6 from a reputable retailer - though some clones are hard to tell

Now if you use say a Gate Nano mosfet - SOME Gate's have a thermal fuse

But some do not - especially the Pico & very basic mosfets out there

But if using SOME of the Nano mosfets you will have a thermal fuse so no positive fuse req

We have fuses in nearly all things electrical - though to be fair in household ye old 3, 5, 13 amp fuses rarely blow

the Miniature Circuit Breaker normally trips first and/or a bulb goes and trips out the whole lighting circuit

Or if a neutral to earth leak is detected the main Residual Current Device trips and everything it protects is turned off

(freezers then defrost whilst you are holiday in Spain - nice, hence a split load consumer unit is the norm)

Don't get me wrong - I run with no fuse as I said

I could use a lame excuse that it is space saving not having a fuse

but yeah it is mostly coz I'm sad & desperate trying squeeze out max possible performance if I'm honest

But it is my gun, my risk - though I will still not promote others remove fuses as I explained

Usually yes, but in the heat of battle with 5 guys running at you, who knows ?

Double and triple insulated for the bits I changed, as per the pic.  I'll do a bit more research, as this gun never had one in the first place.

Cheers

G


If in the rare possible instance that sparks should fly.....

how quick can you get to the battery to yank it out ???

if you got something like the f*ck about L85 handguard that is fiddly as f*ck even without gloves on

then out in field with $hit coming at you and your gun now having a major paddy paddy hissy fit and you wearing gloves

then maybe on stuff like fiddly f*cker guns to say $hit I can't open it - it's smoking.....

Yeah maybe THAT gun should have had a fuse

If you can rip out the battery easily - should the rare need arise - well OK if you know your gun and have some sense

then maybe you will be fine without a fuse

THAT is my thought on the matter - but still the owners call in the end

 
how quick can you get to the battery to yank it out ???
Challenge accepted.

9 seconds under ideal conditions, i.e. indoors, no wind, no rain, no other players shooting at me, and no pressure from $hit my guns on fire ?

New Deans are easy to take apart even with gloves on.  Shortning the wires has also made it easier to install/remove the battery.

I think I'll leave it for now, but if I go down the LiPO route will revisit.

Cheers

G

 
I think you will be fine tbh but I do not wish to be seen promoting the removal of fuses

In fairness many small battery powered devices don't have fuses

but we are talking about stuff with a lot more juice running through it

the risk is fairly low in well wired & maintained gun I feel - you should be fine sir

 
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Just did my spare battery, but not had to swap batteries mid skirmish yet.  I've done it really short so now it's a lot easier to fit the battery in my G36C.

Cheers

G

View attachment 34845

 
This thread has got me thinking I should swap out my new guns and batteries to deans now...


Gah, I knew I was forgetting something. The wiring in my JG M4 is fucking terribad, (not done by me I might add, think it was converted from rear to front wired at some point.) Loads of excess wire, a fuse smack bang in the middle. Main rason I switched to lipo nunchuk was because there was no room inside the PTS MOE guard. Am I gonna struggle settling Deans connectors inside a PTS MOE guard?

At the very least I need to sort the wires and relocate the fuse so thinking out loud, probably a good idea to upgrade the connectors.

 
I’ve taken a dremel to a fair few of my deans to fit in tight spaces , I’ve taken the corners back so there more rounded and tube like , not so boxy in shape .

 
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