roberto602
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I have a t4-18 (gen 2 ) and i am thinking of buying a magbul M110 spring to bump up my FPS as im currently getting getting around 300-310 fps. Will this be ok without upgrading the internals?
Spring Upgrade G&G t4-18
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P
PT247
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would probs be hot. I'd have thought an M100 would be closer to the magic 350 fps if thast is what you are aiming for?
edited: was looking at the wrong spring chart.
A Guarder M110 would probs be around 360fps, which would soften after a bit, you'd need to run some rounds through it to get within the 350 limit
edited: was looking at the wrong spring chart.
A Guarder M110 would probs be around 360fps, which would soften after a bit, you'd need to run some rounds through it to get within the 350 limit
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roberto602
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i have a m100 spring already installed
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PT247
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ahh ok. Then an M110 would possibly be closer to 350 unless your spring is worn out.
Any increase in strength will add more wear on a guns internals but we are not talking a huge boost in strain. You may want to upgrade the motor in the future to a hi-torque if you have not already done so? You running LiPos?
Any increase in strength will add more wear on a guns internals but we are not talking a huge boost in strain. You may want to upgrade the motor in the future to a hi-torque if you have not already done so? You running LiPos?
roberto602
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they already come with a hi-torque motor as standard and im buying a 7.4v 2600mah lipo next week when i buy the spring
roberto602
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im using 0.20g bb's iv only had the gun a week now and it was second hand, What battery you running ?
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PT247
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on a nice rifle like that you should look to run .25s, will give you a far stabler shot, and add in a few more fps with the spring upgrade and it'll be awesome.
I assume you have given the barrel a really good clean? They do appreciate it!
I assume you have given the barrel a really good clean? They do appreciate it!
roberto602
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unfortunately i havnt as it didnt come with a cleaning rod but thats on my list to buy next week.
Ian_Gere
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If you're only getting 300-310FPS with 0.2g BB's out of an M100 spring, either the spring is knackered or your air seal is pants - possibly both. An Element M105 gets the closest to the magic 350, but that is assuming a good air seal. You can get them quickly from Bullseye Country Sports via their webby, their amazon shop, or their fleabay shop for about a tenner posted. You can get them for half that from dualdealshop on fleabay or get-reload.com but you'll have to wait for HK post.
I'd start with cleaning the barrel with alcohol swabs (£1.79 /100 posted = cheapest available) and cleaning rod (i think airsoftworld have them cheapest). Then reseat your hop rubber and wrap a couple of layers of PTFE tape around the part which doesn't have the bump, grease the outside with CT-2 Teflon Silicone grease: this will allow it to slide into the hop unit with the tape in place.
If you're still getting poor power, consider a new hop rubber, but also check the compression of your cylinder. First try squashing the piston into the cylinder with your thumb blocking the cylinder head tube (without the air seal nozzle). It should not leak at all. If it does, grease up the piston head O-ring with CT-2 and try again. If it still leaks you may need a new O-ring, but also check for scratches inside the cylinder and/or damage to the cylinder head. You can also stretch an old O-ring to make it seal better by forcing it over the outside of the cylinder and leaving it there for a few hours.
Once you know the cylinder compression is right, try it out with the air seal nozzle on. It will leak a bit, but you should not be able to press the piston all the way down quickly. An aluminium nozzle with 1 or 2 miniature O-rings is best.
I'd start with cleaning the barrel with alcohol swabs (£1.79 /100 posted = cheapest available) and cleaning rod (i think airsoftworld have them cheapest). Then reseat your hop rubber and wrap a couple of layers of PTFE tape around the part which doesn't have the bump, grease the outside with CT-2 Teflon Silicone grease: this will allow it to slide into the hop unit with the tape in place.
If you're still getting poor power, consider a new hop rubber, but also check the compression of your cylinder. First try squashing the piston into the cylinder with your thumb blocking the cylinder head tube (without the air seal nozzle). It should not leak at all. If it does, grease up the piston head O-ring with CT-2 and try again. If it still leaks you may need a new O-ring, but also check for scratches inside the cylinder and/or damage to the cylinder head. You can also stretch an old O-ring to make it seal better by forcing it over the outside of the cylinder and leaving it there for a few hours.
Once you know the cylinder compression is right, try it out with the air seal nozzle on. It will leak a bit, but you should not be able to press the piston all the way down quickly. An aluminium nozzle with 1 or 2 miniature O-rings is best.
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