Restoring G36 after long time

[macckos]

Hello everyone!

I have an JG G36 (K converted to C with suppressor hiding longer barrel) replica which I bought probably 12 years ago. It had some minor tuning done, like precision barrel from guarder, maybe mosfet and cabling. But it was mostly for goofing around and spend last .. perhaps 11 years not used.

Recently friend proposed me that maybe there would be to opportunity to play some airsoft, and I took the replica out of the closet.

And yeah, I guess its pretty outdated by current standards and I was wondering what should I do to restore it to good shape?

I'm guessing that the hop up rubber probably is done after all these years (just because its old), and I probably should open gearbox, degrease it and all. One thing I remember was that it was never fun to work with original JG hop up chamber, maybe there is some good replacement that fits this old construction?

Could You give me any advice? 

Thanks!

 

[Rogerborg]

Ahoy and welcome.

Yes, I'd expect the rubber parts and gearbox snot to have hardened, and the spring may be mullered if it was left compressed, but what you do about it really comes down to time and budget. JGs are pretty tough and basic, I wouldn't go mad spending money on it unless it actually needs it.

Maple Leaf buckings work well and are a candidate for best value for money replacement/upgrade.

If you're opening the gearbox for a clean and re-grease, and to lubricate or replace the rings, then you might as well re-shim it while you're in there, check the gears for wear, and the trigger contacts for arcing damage.

If you don't open it, you can sometimes up the compression a little by taking the barrel off and spraying or dripping a little silicone oil down the nozzle into the cylinder. Give it some time to work into the rings, then blow it out with some auto bursts until it's completely clear at the nozzle, before re-assembly.

The rotary hop unit on my 2018 era G36 works well enough, I'm not sure if yours is different so can't speak to that.

A chrono is the only way of (really) telling where the power is at, but you may want to skip it if you're willing to accept a day shooting weak. If you end up fixing it to the point where it shoots hot though, that's a wasted day of airsoft and you'd have been better off buying the chrono.  Up to you, I wouldn't go without now.

 

[macckos]

Rogerborg, thank You for replying!

I did little research on my email, and out of the box I've had replaced gearbox bushings, and spring guide (directly when buying it), I've also made mosfet unit myself back in these times, changed mag adapter to fit m4 style magpul mags, etc. Surely I will dissasemble the thing to the bone for a cleanup. I also recall something about the shimming being done at the shop first when I bought it.

I could invest in it, but I dont see a point for a occasional Sunday goofing, so just to make it work nicely:

- new greases

- new bucking as proposed

- new orings 

I came up with these upgrade searches and now you have flat hops and whatnot and I've got no idea what it does better, and will it fit ancient G36.

As far as I remember I have there this sort of HU chamber, I just remember not liking someting about it, not sure what was that.

If I can fit something more sturdy, that keeps everything stable, I can spend a little on something.
View attachment 130626 or View attachment 130627

 

[Rogerborg]

I'm not aware of an upgraded replacement for that hop unit. I did buy a spare when I cracked the rotary dial, but the functionality was always fine.  I run a Maple Leaf 60 bucking in mine, I can't recall if I've changed the nub or not.

Lubrication, bucking and o-rings is probably all it needs, if that.

They're decent guns, I bought one as a backup-backup but it's now my go-to. I run a STANAG adaptor as well, it really widens mag choice.  Heck, with a Big Dragon M140, 11.1V and a Perun AB++ it'll burst fire right on the limit of where mags can feed.  I don't know if yours is from this era, but mine has an adjustable spring tensioner which is a brilliant idea that allows for tuning to site limits. The only thing I'm not mad keen on is the trigger, but that's common to all V3 two-piece triggers.

I hope you get yours back in shape and outshooting guns that cost two or three times as much.  

 

[JinxDuh]

Hey bud, so JG's are still one of the best G36's - Take that as you will...

As for hop up, I've recently had a lovely time trying to build a KA4 using JG parts so here is a list of hop up units that will work;

AirsoftPro CNC G36 Hop-Up Unit

ProWin G36 CNC Hop Up

BEGADI G36 Metal Hop Up

Lonex G36 Metal Hop Up (Personally, I love the Lonex one and up until recently it was my go to for hop ups)

Begadi/Maxx G36 Hop Up (Pricey, but oh my god - SO GOOD!!!)

The SHS one is... Okay. It's polymer, but it does work. I would avoid the Nuprol one, personally. I fitted one and it fell apart on testing!

I've tried all of the above, and honestly I'd recommend either the Lonex for a tight budget, or the Begadi/Maxx if you're wanting to splash the cash on gucci. 

 

[gavinkempsell]

You could go down the fix & upgrade route or buy a brand spanking new metal Cyma from BBguns4less £135, or a Jg polymer one from surplus store for £135.

Coincidently I'm looking for a cheap G36K as a wall hanger.

 

[macckos]

I think Initially I'll just go with basic maintenance & rubber replacement, and if my replica stands out in a bad way, then maybe this chamber & further fixes.

I just remember being super excited about airsoft when I was young & pretty, and it turned out to be closer to, well money waste for the time, so I'll take it easy.

Thanks for chambers recommendation,  I'll go for this Lonex as Im able to find it in good price in my country, If ill have trouble with the stock one.