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Reducing Trigger Pull - Easy CNC Trigger job ?

Point Two Balls

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Hi Guys,

My step son CQB's with me, but as he's a little dude, he doesn't like how far he has to pull the trigger on his CYMA.

Is fitting a CNC trigger the cheapest easiest option?

Cheers,

Pat.

 
the typical trigger pull bodge on a v2 box is to tap a hole in the gearbox casing behind the trigger and put a grub screw in.

essentially lets you adjust the trigger as if it's being pre-pulled.

however there are 2 downsides;

-first is the safety, which you can either be patient and file down, or be impatient and remove. personally i don't see much problem given making an airsoft pew "safe" involves pulling the mag and clearing the chamber, and if you're in-game you're gonna be on fire anyway.

-second is the trigger mech, the above method works really well when there's an internal mosfet or contact that means you can adjust the trigger to literal hair-width levels of pull, but with a mechanical trigger unit you're only gonna be able to go so far back before the trolley won't reset properly.

 
Following on from Hamster that rifles bound to have a completely mechanical trigger, so this sort of setup...

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/trigger-switches/ec-trigger-switch-v2-rear-wired

... and getting a very short trigger pull will be challenging with the mechanical contacts.

It's easy to say if you have the money and the skills, but swapping my son's G&G Firehawk to a GATE Titan and Maxx Model trigger massively improved the gun, and the trigger pull now is very short (by adjusting the trigger and the Titan's settings). As I said though it's not cheap, and comes quite close to say the cost of a brand new Double Eagle M900 that already has an optical controller and some trigger sensitivity adjustment.

 
Hi Guys.

Great advice and I get it all now after knowing what to look for.

I like the sound of drilling and tapping the gear box under and behind the trigger and reducing the pre-engagement as a cheap fix, but I know get the whole mosfet thing as well (never fully understood it before).

So a cheap ish mosfet like a Gate Astor and an adjustable trigger like a MAXX cnc one would give me a hair trigger and ability to use a better battery and make the gun last longer if not abused.

So for less than £100, I ignited be able to do this, and if the rest of the gun gives up (it’s a £100 CYMA after all), I’d still have the mosfet and trigger to fit to a new gun.

Sound ok?

Cheers,

Pat.

 
Sure, although that's a lot to drop on a plastic CYMA.  I have a CM5xx, it's solid internally, but given the toytown plastics, I wouldn't spent much on it. It's more of a great starter/backup gun, or for trying out things like the grub screw method.

The easiest and cheapest way to get an easier trigger pull is this...

fuck-you-middle-finger.gif


No, bear with me: middle finger trigger pull used to be taught by the FBI and police academies for "point shooting" with revolvers.  There are solid arguments against it in real steel - weak grip, harder to maintain trigger discipline - which don't apply to airsoft AEGs.  I'm a natural airsoft middle fingerer, and would recommend giving it a try.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I’d second this. Middle finger works really well for me and some of my team mates. Feels natural too

 
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