Pinion to Bevel Shimming

i was meaning the teeth that are engaging with the idler gear, the bevel faces looked the same.


Did you know G&G make a bevel in usual 10 teeth

plus the 9 tooth bevel like ZCI

BUT ALSO AN 8 TOOTH BEVEL that was fitted to slower FH's

https://www.guay2.com/en/product/detail-977

hence why some FH's were quite snappy

& others were a bit sluggish

wouldn't let edit the other post I added to my earlier reply

but wanted to mention the weird shit in certain G&G's

Heh, that is a shit job.

The one I did on both my amoebas was fine though. Still drilled, but I did it very carefully and removed all the burrs on the inside.

Also I used a 3mm bit so the hole is tiny.




I've done it a few times when I didn't seem to have a ported cylinder to match the barrel

not so much to drop power/volume - more to get a 85% cyinder when I only had a full or 66% one

lots of fine sanding emery paper through hole at slight angle to smooth burrs

blow, wash, wipe with oily rag to remove all crap

testing the hole surface with finger - ouch, nope still a little sharp

finally baby smooth surface inside so not to cut o-ring in snappy use

me personally I'm not a fan of spring cutting or extra port to lower power

I'd probably say fuck remove a tooth or two to SS it (volume permitting)

but that is the thing - we kinda roll with similar stuff

but at same time we may differ slightly in our methods at times

not saying anybody is right/wrong here

we all do what we think will work best for each build

and fuck it - if it don't work out too great this time we'll try other stuff maybe

but at least we had a crack at it & keep learning from each wanky build we do

I've always said give the same gun to 6 or 10 "tech's" ultra experiened

or a mix of new/old tech's - or all very experienced techs - don't matter

tell them to mod it to the max to squeeze absolute max performance out of STOCK PARTS !!!

(or very slight upgrades of say max £30 budget)

I'll bet you'll see a fair variation of minor mods & tweaks that each person might do in their quest

eg: some might rewire, some might change bucking only, to keep or replace nozzle, piston, cylinder head

some might gut the box - some might blow it on motor

some might correct AoE & with what ???

It would be interesting to see the mixture of methods used by various people

just like shimming & shit, the method/technique varies from person to person (a little)

 
^ yep thats the one, musta swapped an 8 tooth for a 10 then, didnt bother counting em.

Box got a lot more lively with that and a properly rated spring.

It's a quick and cheap way to reduce the energy. don't see anything wrong with it (if done properly)


Quick and cheap are literally the only positive things about it, totally fucks with your consistency and means you're swinging a strong ass spring for no benefit (at least with short stroking the gun gets snappier)

It'll make the piston slap hard too, the g&g's piston head was gone because of it.

As far as i'm concerned its a way of ruining the gun because of lazyness.

Edit: for clarity i aint talking about porting, theres a good and valid reason for that, i'm talking bout this shit:

View attachment 65368

 
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As far as i'm concerned its a way of ruining the gun because of lazyness.
It's common practice here, whereas short stroking isn't really used unless the customer asks for it.

Not that I care much about these kind of things as I do 99% of my own repairs (bar a couple of things I just don't have the tools nor the money/space to buy and use these tools).

Moreover, 99% of the people who send their guns to techs are the kind of people who know fuck all about internals and are usually cheapskates who want a job done quick and cheap.

The ports I drilled were placed exactly where a 3/4 cylinder hole would be, so no hard slapping or anything. On the other hand I've seen some pretty awful ports that were drilled literally a cm away from the cylinder head, now THAT is an easy way to destroy a piston/cylinder head.

 
i've only seen it twice, both cases it was a box with a way strong spring.

needless to say you change the cylinder out to an un-drilled one and install a correct strength spring your accuracy sees a slight (read: massive) improvement, the box in that pic ended up an absolute demon when it was done.

suppose it's a case of what is the gun being used for, if it's just a cqb peice then likely the user is never gonna notice but i'm still not a fan.

installing a weaker spring or short stroking is the much better alternative, less stress on the gun without sacrificing accuracy.

 
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