Paint Stripping

[MisterG]

Hi

What's the best method of stripping paint from guns?

Fairy Power Spray formulation seems to have changed and no longer works according to the feedback on the YouTube video.

I've seen someone else had some success with Dettol, is that now the best way?

Is there one method for plastic parts and one for metal?

Cheers

G

 

[Guest]

It depends on the paint. I’ve used just about everything with varying results.

The old formulation Fairy is still available, but nail varnish remover without acetone is better. And Nitromors on metal parts

 

[Davegolf]

The best non damaging way of removing acrylic camo paints from metal/plastic/polymer whatever is to use 'brake and clutch cleaner/degreaser' available from the likes of Euro Car Parts.

You will need to buy a 5L can of it. An aerosol of it won't do jack.

Completely submerse/soak the parts for a while, varies on how thick it's been applied and how long it's been there but something between 10-30mins, then whilst submerged scrub with a stiff brush, nylon brushes work great - search 'fast mover nylon brush' on eBay.

It takes a little elbow grease but nothing works better whilst not damaging anything.

Oh and wear nitrile gloves, it's not harmful but it's feckin cold and it will suck all natural oils out your skin!

 

[Gepard]

Paint thinner works too. Just don't soak it too long. Rubbing alcohol works also.

 

[Duff]

Anything with a high alcohol content. Methylated spirit works well as long as you intend on painting after. Fairy powerspray also works on acrylic paints. 

 

[Iceni]

For metal parts you can't beat Dichloromethane. It's cheap enough and you can order it from amazon/ebay without a problem. It eats paint instantly including clear coat and primer.

It's a chemical that used to be in all paint stripper until the EU banned it been sold as a paint stripper. It was banned because significant amounts were been found in water supplies and it's pretty damaging to aquatic life. But for a single gun where you can dispose of the cloths responsibly it's not going to cause any problems. It was also the chemical used in clutch and brake cleaners and has been banned for use as that as well.

For your plastic parts look to the scale model companies. There are loads of products for removing paint from plastic models that should be effective on your gun.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Paint-remover-stripper-for-models-VMS-CLEAN-SLATE-6-75-oz-200-ml-plastic-safe/322160327742?hash=item4b02407c3e:g:HvUAAOSwA3dYPwTa


 

 

[MisterG]

Thanks for the replies. 

Just did a bit more googling and it does seem you can still get the orginal Fary Power Spray, but looks like the bigger supermarkets are only stocking the new Citrus one.

Hoping to preserve the orginal paintwork underneath.

Cheers

G

 

[Duff]

If you aren't painting after then use power spray or similar. Methylated spirit will cause the polymer to go Smokey.

 

[Rogerborg]

I used isopropyl alcohol because I had plenty of it to hand, and it worked fine on two fresh two-tone paint jobs in conjunction with some stiff-bristled scrubbing.  I stress the freshness of them, I could still smell the solvents in the paint.

Against something that's fully cured I'd wouldn't mess around and would go with dichloromethane.  And I wouldn't mess around with that stuff: gloves, eye protection, and use it outdoors at arms length with frequent breaks.

 

[Iceni]

Diclo is a beast, but use it carefully. Read up on the stuff, I didn't give you the warnings about using it that I should.

Chemical resistant gloves, Eye pro. Work outdoors. Work carefully.

The stuff is an animal.
 

 

[Duff]

One other technique, if the paint is fresh ie; you can smell the chemicals in it, you can literally take a heat gun on its lowest setting and wave it over the RIF about 8-10 inches away and you will see the paint bubble and peel away.

Obviously goes without saying to watch the heat and distance from the RIF, especially the polymer parts. This is the quickest way to get paint off but also the most likely to go wrong.