as said the ICS & KWA motors are the "normal" cheapo China motor types...
they got them locking tabs at sides...
The SHS/G&G & others that have 2 allen screw/bolts fastening into a lock ring inside
(that CONDUCTS !!!)
there is a risk of shorting if you place a diode across them (perhaps)
but I wouldn't fit a flyback to a G&G/SHS motor like ICS clip shows
KWA does it a bit differently, wired in as a module in series so should work on G&G/SHS
(so some kudos to KWA I suppose but calling it a fancy name - jeeeez marketing BS or wot)
ICS method is the simple straight forward method & is fine for cheapo "tabbed" motors,
but bit tricky or risky perhaps on other motor types
as you may short shit out if not careful on lockring type motors
only saying this in case somebody tries to sue me for fireworks inside their toy gun
you can just wire it across the wires, just on certain motor types you MIGHT create a short
with the lockring motors - that's all
The diode needs to be across the motor, preferably as close as possible to motor
but can be a tiny bit further back (not much) or not quite immediately directly across motor
(like the tiny extra wiring dooberry in the KWA bollox)
HOWEVER - the diode MUST be between the switch & motor to snub the sparks
(in a non mosfet gun)
If you put the diode across the positive & negative wires BEFORE switch it doesn't snub the spark
So the diode goes somewhere across the motor & between motor+switch so to speak
There are a number of options, you can splice a diode in
& a mosfet should have protection in it anyway, where/what the protection is varies on mosfet model
(the 3034 is a more robust mosfet than the cheap ones like 1404's, a 1404 benefits from a flyback)
you can add a flyback to most guns, but usually it goes across or close to motor to snub sparks
Diodes - even mosfets nick a tiny tiny smidge of juice before they turn on, called the forwarding voltage
"Well hello there...", no switch on then, but you won't really notice it
and you need to prevent burning out contacts somehow for long term reliability on 11.1v
Flyback/Snubber/Schottky are a cheap effective method to drastically reduce the damage on 11.1v
I'm not an electrical engineer so be warned trying to slap schottky's across G&G's, SHS's etc...
on the cheapo "tabbed" motors you will be fine to wire it across the motor itself
