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MK12 upgrading help.

Right, if you're after a "normal" rate of fire and using 18:1 gears (which is what will be in the gun to start with by the way), you won't be running the gun so fast as to be experiencing the issue in that video. (for anyone else https://youtu.be/2vRmh9UTsSU?si=nHgoCniiX9LoE5ve )

Hop up you can do whenever, it isn't going to affect things like trigger response and rate of fire. It may well affect your power because the Maxx hop units are notorious for fitment and alignment issues and may need a different nozzle to match up with it. I'd say either do it first before you fuck about with the gearbox and see if it works OK with the nozzle or do it AFTER the gearbox so as not to introduce a problem that may throw you off something wrong with your tappet timing.

I'd do etu first, then the motor, then the gears IF it needs it.

 
i am thinking that the 470mm barrel would like the newer gears, and im still not sure of what gears to get, thats the end problem i found.

 
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hello's,

             i have started to get the parts i ordered.

i have heard that you don't need a anti-reversal latch and you turn off active braking with a brushless motor, is this correct please?

i have received the alloy hop up unit and installed it and it feeds. i will assemble again as the little nub lever spring might not be sitting right.

i have the kestrel v2 here and intend to install that today, the box is something special. never had such a nice box before, bit to small for the cat though

the brushless motor managed to get stolen/lost on route, i forgot that people will just steal your stuff if they have a chance, so i have had to order another one and its the 33k one.

the newer better timed Jvan 18:1 gear set is here, they look nice and come packaged well.

wish me luck please.

 
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i have heard that you don't need a anti-reversal latch and you turn off active braking with a brushless motor, is this correct please?

 
i have heard that you don't need a anti-reversal latch and you turn off active braking with a brushless motor, is this correct please?
I have not seen that advice anywhere.

There's a reason why ALL airsoft gearboxes use an ARL.

Without it the gears will damage the piston rack and cause BB feed problems.

I've seen some comments say you can use active breaking instead but this will burn out the motor very quickly.

 
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I have not seen that advice anywhere.

There's a reason why ALL airsoft gearboxes use an ARL.

Without it the gears will damage the piston rack and cause BB feed problems.

I've seen some comments say you can use active breaking instead but this will burn out the motor very quickly.
I have seen it claimed, but cannot remember where and for which motor.  I would leave the ARL in place.

 
Technically you can but run without an anti-reversal latch but I would never chance or recommend it for the reasons EDcase gave. Way too risky.

It's like a spleen, you can live without yours but if you don't take antibiotics to compensate, expect a shorter life expectancy.

With my Perun MOSFET, it explicitly states that active braking should be disabled when running it with a brushless motor. I assume the same would apply in your case.

 
I have seen it claimed, but cannot remember where and for which motor.  I would leave the ARL in place.


I'm not sure it's motor specific advice, I *thought* is was more to do with when you're running something like a Perun, etc. which can detect a complete cycle of the gears, so it can finish without the spring under tension.

But yeah, I'd always run the ARL anyway. What are you really gaining by leaving it out?

 
I do wish AEGs had a decock feature to make sure they're not stored with the spring compressed.

 
I do wish AEGs had a decock feature to make sure they're not stored with the spring compressed.
Stick a Perun in it! ?

Before I Peruned our AKs, we used to take the motor off and release the ARL after a day's play

 
Thanks.  They do seem a bit complicated for me tho

 
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i have the full Kestrel v2 and the current software does not have active braking as an option?

the brushless motors sometimes come with an anti-reversal bearing, mine seem to be happy to turn both ways, so ill keep the latch in for the time being.

next question, my upper and lower don't want to come together like the beatles said. i am thinking i need to maybe grind the gearbox top but i thought i would ask as to what i should look at to get them to merge please?

 
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The only brushless motors that come with unidirectional bearings (effectively eliminating the need for a mechanical ARL) are the Solink Advanced and V5 motors (the latter is also known as G5 under Gate's branding).

Unless using the aforementioned motors it's utter bollocks to remove the ARL, so is a mechanical decocking feature like the one found on ICS guns because all these do is damage the tappet plate.

It's much better (and safer for the gun's internals) to have an electronic decocking feature where the gun fires one shot with maximum AB to stop the piston fully forward.

 
next question, my upper and lower don't want to come together like the beatles said. i am thinking i need to maybe grind the gearbox top but i thought i would ask as to what i should look at to get them to merge please?


Pictures?

 
my phone is ballon shaped at the moment and has cracked its armoured case due to the battery, the armoured case hides expanding batterie's really well so cant take photo at the minute.

its a small gap becoming wider to the rear along the seem of the upper and lower. its only small.

ill get a photo in about a week as i have a new battery then.

thank you!!!

 
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so far so good, managed to install, the kestrel v2 , the newer designed 13:1 gears, 33k brushless motor and the alloy hop up tracer unit. 

notice on the 18;1 gear set that it was rubbing against the top half of the kestrel, its a pad to prevent damage, but i think taking it apart after some use to check is needed.

i tried to change out my air system with another complete system of cylinder, piston, piston head and cylinder head.

i went for the silent type and got a full ribbed cylinder and ordered a alloy piston body before i was inform not to use it.

my experiment failed. the full cylinder performed worse than the 70%. i assume though leaking. 

i believe i figure out why alloy pistons bodies dont work. my gear box case has a window at the rear to view the spring guide. i think the window opened allows the piston to move side to side causing jams. 

i think if you have a full set of piston rails it would work fine.

the compression of the silent piston in either cylinder is not very good and the original double o ring piston is much better.

im thinking of a diferent full 100% cylinder.

i also had a spade connector break on me, managed to Bodge it with an old connector.    

 
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