Jg g36c trigger response.

[KOBK81]

Hi guys so I recently purchased a cheap Jg g36c. I know they are a cheap to begin with and not the most responsive. I replaced all of the internals except the trigger contacts thinking that would solve some of the response issue.  I soon discovered that the trigger system is actually the problem here.  On full auto no problem but semi auto is a headache. 2 or 3 shots and the trigger clicks and stops working. The only diagnosis I can give is that the trigger shuttle is lifting over the trigger before a full cycle has completed thus locking it. Are there any good budget trigger contact fixes out there for a v3 gearbox which will  shorten the travel and give better response on semi? and can I change the trigger to a single pivot type like on the v2 boxes? Thanks.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Hope you didn't change the Cut Off Lever to a SHS or other type...

Silver JG is bottom, SHS one is on top (black) with larger lug sanded to show difference

use one those and you could have selector issues meaning the the COL is slightly raised in semi

These small lug COL's are fitted to the JG G36's & SIG's, not sure about AK's but likely

if you replaced the COL with another type (larger lug) like SHS then you will need to mod it a bit

"normally" the COL will wear or the trolley/shuttle is well used & abused

Another issue if you replace the selector plate, see Cyma G36's have a selector plate lower cut on semi

as it uses the larger lug COL like SHS type...

The JG selector has more material on the JG selector as there is a tiny lug so COL is down on semi

& raises correctly on auto - which is also a smidge higher than the Cyma plates

Replace or mix/match stuff around and you will get the COL not settling in the correct position

be it half raised on auto and the dead zone where trolley can't slip under the part raised COL

or

slightly raised a smidge on semi, struggling to pass over the COL or it does the trigger may slip off at full/further pull

Apart from a worn trolley - mullered at back of trolley, the trigger mechanism could be worn...

but tend to doubt it unless it is really caned hired gun, normally a good bit of silver material contacting trolley

plus on full pull the trolley moves very slightly downwards as trolley moves forward I've found helping to maintain contact

You might have wear on the trigger's mounting holes and yes there is a bit of slack in V3 two part triggers I'm afraid

you can take up only a minor amount of slack before you go down the route of more serious trigger modding

(and still won't give an ultra fine hairline trigger)

Performance wise, the JG motors are not that slow, often thought to be 22tpa than slower 27/28tpa like some others

so JG's if compression is good will have a tiny little more zest than others

All the testing of the trigger mechanism can be well tested with just the box, col trigger & sector

you can remove the selector plate - carefully to closely see it all in operation at the back as you pull trigger and roll sector

watching how it all works & trolley pops etc....

But - How much have you changed and to what is the real question ???

Was is bought s/hand aka f*cked or brand new - what did you do/change

did you force it on the "dead zone" where you released trigger too early on semi ???

What ya done & more info plus some pics might help btw

 

[KOBK81]

Hi thanks for your response.  I purchased the gun used from a friend and the trigger respose was real bad and it sounded like it was reversing after each shot. It wouldn't allow any spam on the trigger and would lock the instant you pulled the trigger more than twice. The only parts I have replaced are the motor zci 16tpa high torque, 16:1 gears, guarder spring, shs spring guide, e&c cylinder, shs cylinder head, shs 15t piston, shs piston head, have achieved a very good fps around 345fps but semi hasn't got any better. I thought if I get the gears spinning a bit faster than the semi auto would change but it hasn't.  I inspected the trigger shuttle and doesn't seem to be any excesive wear tbh. I'm using the original selector plate and col so they don'tseem to be cresting any issues.  

 

[Sitting Duck]

When you say - lock the moment you pull the trigger more than twice....

Is the gun stalling, struggling to cycle etc....

(which it shouldn't be with a 16tpa neodym motor so much)

Or the trigger is like on safe mode - refusing to travel properly coz COL is raised

(or the odd v3 safety arm on other side is impeding the silver two part trigger swinging upwards and pushing trolley)

In other words real resistance from COL not resetting or settling so trolley passes over COL arm (so COL lifts to pop trolley later)

Or trolley is jumping off of trigger mechanism - through worn components, at full pull

which is not really "locked" as I would call it

Now you say you replaced the piston with a SHS one ???

A Blue SHS steel rack piston ???

Coz they can, well do bind in the JG V3 I just tested - use a Cyma piston or check binding

sand/file the piston/runners & retest to ensure piston doesn't bind

Now if the piston binds, it will slow and release late, it "might" slow that sector rotating at last few teeth,

that might make the drivechain near stall on release briefly and leave the sector in a later position with COL still raised ???

That COL slightly raised would lock the trigger in dead zone maybe

So need to clarify what you mean by "locked" specifically

Also was this problem happening prior to these "upgrades"

and/or what other parts/upgrades were performed by previous owners

did it have an ongoing issue before you bought it - or got worse since you upgraded it

JG box I tested with 2 SHS pistons, that were binding in my v3...

Check piston for binding by inserting in box, tilt box up/down and piston should rise/fall freely

my guess is that if your SHS is like my "regular" SHS Blue steel - it will probably bind

Between the grooves/channels, that moves on the gearbox piston rails inside

JG stock piston measures 18.26mm

Cyma metal rack measures 18.29mm (doesn't bind)

SHS measures 19.2mm & does bind, not moving freely

Unsure about the lightened SHS pistons with holes or slots in

my two were regular & another I started to swiss a while ago

But SHS pistons can bind in a fair few boxes, and a little tight at back of box in a few more

& binding pistons can cause some weird issues & rob you of rps (even fps) & efficiency & add wear too

View attachment 55527

 

[Samurai]

Don't spam the trigger. Always fully depress it.