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Ian's guide to noobism on a tight budget.
- Thread starter Ian_Gere
- Start date
DX115FALCON
Members
- May 14, 2013
- 541
- 399
A tutorial as to how to strip off the paint would be much appreciated, as I'm fed up with using a bright green MP5K!
Ian_Gere
Retired Moderator
- Apr 1, 2012
- 6,417
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- Thread starter
- #43
^^There is one on here somewhere. There's a few on you tube too. In a few minutes, the power of my googlefu we will see, my young paddy-whatnot...
Here we go.
As I remember it, the last time we discussed this subject we came to the conclusion that what you need is any solution which is alkali but not so high PH as a strong NaOh solution, drain cleaner stylee, but since Fairy Power Spray isn't that expensive, there's probably not much point arsing about with stuff which could potentially melt your plastic (unless you have a spare handguard, for eg, which you're prepared to risk for the sake of you tube fame and our general edification... anybody?).
Here we go.
As I remember it, the last time we discussed this subject we came to the conclusion that what you need is any solution which is alkali but not so high PH as a strong NaOh solution, drain cleaner stylee, but since Fairy Power Spray isn't that expensive, there's probably not much point arsing about with stuff which could potentially melt your plastic (unless you have a spare handguard, for eg, which you're prepared to risk for the sake of you tube fame and our general edification... anybody?).
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DX115FALCON
Members
- May 14, 2013
- 541
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Wish that this guide was around when I started out!
Fumps
Members
- Oct 9, 2013
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Great guide.
As a beginner: The best thing I did when I got my boots was that I went to my local surplus store & picked up some 2nd hand German army para boots (Any army leather boots will do it) which cost me £30, I softened them with organic coconut oil (I work with Chemist's in a lab & this was advised by them) which worked perfectly. Then bought some "Sorbothane" insoles. the boots are now as comfortable & feel lighter than any walking boots on the market (Which I have tried in the past) & cost less than anything new.
I bought all my stuff from Surplus shops, forum classifieds & E-bay. My whole Load out cost less that £100. THe only thing i need now is a chest rig & Rif (Both of which I will get once I know what suits me better)
As a beginner: The best thing I did when I got my boots was that I went to my local surplus store & picked up some 2nd hand German army para boots (Any army leather boots will do it) which cost me £30, I softened them with organic coconut oil (I work with Chemist's in a lab & this was advised by them) which worked perfectly. Then bought some "Sorbothane" insoles. the boots are now as comfortable & feel lighter than any walking boots on the market (Which I have tried in the past) & cost less than anything new.
I bought all my stuff from Surplus shops, forum classifieds & E-bay. My whole Load out cost less that £100. THe only thing i need now is a chest rig & Rif (Both of which I will get once I know what suits me better)
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Ian_Gere
Retired Moderator
- Apr 1, 2012
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- #50
Yeah, I wear German Para Boots too. Totally reliable for walking on anything you might find on an airsoft site and waterproof, with really good ankle support.
I never thought of using coconut oil on them before, but yeah it sounds like a plan. I use 1 pair of Poundland memory foam insoles with a pair of Trainer Tamer Odour Eaters on top, plus under those is some shaped bits of gel insole from fleabay (for tiny little Asian female feet I think) under the balls of my feet and heels to stop my feet slipping about and crushing my toes (because they are very slim).
Edit: oh aye, and thanks
I never thought of using coconut oil on them before, but yeah it sounds like a plan. I use 1 pair of Poundland memory foam insoles with a pair of Trainer Tamer Odour Eaters on top, plus under those is some shaped bits of gel insole from fleabay (for tiny little Asian female feet I think) under the balls of my feet and heels to stop my feet slipping about and crushing my toes (because they are very slim).
Edit: oh aye, and thanks
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Fumps
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- Oct 9, 2013
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Woo Hoo I've finally contributed something of use lol
Yeh I have a pair of pretty expensive Solomon fell running shoes for mountain biking But with the Sorborthane insoles in the para boots they feel light with literally no poor impact on the bottom of my feet. as a matter of fact the Mrs has copied my idea for her dog walking boots.
Yeh I have a pair of pretty expensive Solomon fell running shoes for mountain biking But with the Sorborthane insoles in the para boots they feel light with literally no poor impact on the bottom of my feet. as a matter of fact the Mrs has copied my idea for her dog walking boots.
Ian_Gere
Retired Moderator
- Apr 1, 2012
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- #53
We get a lot of people asking about maintenance too - as I've said elsewhere, if I rattle off a whole series of different internal parts which will eventually require some lubrication, you'll have little, if any, idea what I'm on about. By the time any of them could do with a little TLC, you will know, so look into that then. In the meantime all you need to do is keep the muzzle free of dirt and clean the barrel periodically.
I like to clean my guns after pretty much every skirmish day, but that's because I love fiddling with them mainly, as unless you have reason to suspect more dirt may have got down the barrel than usual, if say you were skirmishing in a very dusty environment, every 2-3 game days will be fine. The easiest way to do it is to use these alcohol swabs on one of these cleaning rods. If you peel the swabs layers apart so it makes an oblong and cut it into 2 single layer squares, that is the perfect amount of cloth to fit down the barrel - just pull a corner through the slot in the rod and twist it all round the end gently before twisting it into the barrel. Continue to twist as you push it all the way down until it goes no further (this will also clean any oil/grease off the interior hop rubber) and do the same as you withdraw it. There will be yellowish/brown/black residue on the swab. Take the 2nd square and repeat. If this one comes out with obvious stains then cut another swab and continue until it comes out clean / almost clean.
I like to clean my guns after pretty much every skirmish day, but that's because I love fiddling with them mainly, as unless you have reason to suspect more dirt may have got down the barrel than usual, if say you were skirmishing in a very dusty environment, every 2-3 game days will be fine. The easiest way to do it is to use these alcohol swabs on one of these cleaning rods. If you peel the swabs layers apart so it makes an oblong and cut it into 2 single layer squares, that is the perfect amount of cloth to fit down the barrel - just pull a corner through the slot in the rod and twist it all round the end gently before twisting it into the barrel. Continue to twist as you push it all the way down until it goes no further (this will also clean any oil/grease off the interior hop rubber) and do the same as you withdraw it. There will be yellowish/brown/black residue on the swab. Take the 2nd square and repeat. If this one comes out with obvious stains then cut another swab and continue until it comes out clean / almost clean.
M4Airsoft0512
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- May 28, 2014
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Hey I am new to airsoft and I have got boots and a face mask I am just looking for a gun. My budget is £100 and I was just wondering is there any M4 rifle I can get for that price (that I can use in a skirmish) I am looking for a range of 30m+ and good FPS even though FPS has little to do with range. Please someone help me!! :S
Happy
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- Mar 23, 2014
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For £100 you'd be hard pressed to find many new decent rifles at that price. You'd be better off looking in the for sale section of the forum. However there are some available that are just over your price range.
No UKARA membership/under 18:
http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ics-clear-plastic-m4a1-fixed-stock-airsoft-gun-aeg
UKARA registered:
http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ics-plastic-m4a1-fixed-stubby-stock-airsoft-gun-aeg
Both of these are over your budget (£100.57 not including postage) and will need batteries and a charger bought seperately:
Battery:
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/8-4v-1600mah-2-3a-nimh-mini-battery-pack-3x2-1.html
Decent smart charger:
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/600ma-smart-charger-for-8-4v-airsoft-batteries.html
You can see now why I recommend looking in the for sale forum, it soon adds up to £150+ new. That's unless you shop abroad on sites like Taiwan Gun, but you will have to be UKARA registered and have that number (plus a contact number) printed on the packaging so customs don't destroy it when they realise it's a RIF.
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Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies
Members
- Mar 3, 2013
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When you look at it,it actually does.
It's starting to be more accepted that the BB rides the top of the barrel(Around airsoftmechanics at least) from testing with a transparent acrylic barrel and simply looking at wear marks. My VSR barrel with nearly 100,000 round through has much more wear on the top of the barrel.
Now-this is a bit of my own theorizing so I may cock up a wee bit,I used to be on the 'FPS doesn't matter a lot but it matters' fence but now I hopped into 'it bloody well matters mate' garden.
The BB is riding the top of the barrel and it has backspin. Then you have air blowing behind it to propel it,and since there is always some space under it as it is riding the top,air is also blowing by it.
air blowing forward to a back spinning object. Would that not mean an increase in backspin?
Increased FPS does improve performance,very noticeable if you use heavier rounds. After some upgrading my VSR now fires 320 FPS instead of 290. The greater speed of the air volume and if my little theory is correct,increased backspin from the air going under the BB has actually gained me some significant performance boosts. I can use a lower hop setting now to get equal or better performance than I did with a lower velocity.
I think this is affected also by the amount of air volume in the cylinder in relation to inner barrel volume and of course how fast this volume of air is being pushed out of the cylinder.
It's starting to be more accepted that the BB rides the top of the barrel(Around airsoftmechanics at least) from testing with a transparent acrylic barrel and simply looking at wear marks. My VSR barrel with nearly 100,000 round through has much more wear on the top of the barrel.
Now-this is a bit of my own theorizing so I may cock up a wee bit,I used to be on the 'FPS doesn't matter a lot but it matters' fence but now I hopped into 'it bloody well matters mate' garden.
The BB is riding the top of the barrel and it has backspin. Then you have air blowing behind it to propel it,and since there is always some space under it as it is riding the top,air is also blowing by it.
air blowing forward to a back spinning object. Would that not mean an increase in backspin?
Increased FPS does improve performance,very noticeable if you use heavier rounds. After some upgrading my VSR now fires 320 FPS instead of 290. The greater speed of the air volume and if my little theory is correct,increased backspin from the air going under the BB has actually gained me some significant performance boosts. I can use a lower hop setting now to get equal or better performance than I did with a lower velocity.
I think this is affected also by the amount of air volume in the cylinder in relation to inner barrel volume and of course how fast this volume of air is being pushed out of the cylinder.
M4Airsoft0512
Members
- May 28, 2014
- 2
- 0
Thank you and I think I will go for the ICS m4A1 it looks awesome.
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