I need help fitting a GATE nanoAAB

[WolfmanBarrett]

Hi folks. So foolishly I bough a mosfet before researching. I was told it was plug and play and took their word for it. I’ve now found it isn’t and needs some wiring up. I’m reasonably comfortable with soldering and opening up my gearbox but pretty new to majority of finer tuning my gun.

If I start with what I have and what I got. 

I have a tomtac v2 gearbox, and I bought the gate nanoAAB mosfet. It came with two sets of trigger signal wires, of which there is obviously a port for on the mosfet. 

Firstly I wanted to know if I need to use the single trigger contact or the double.

if it’s the double, how do I know which is positive and which is negative as they are both black cables, however the input for the signal wire does fit in both ways round so does that not matter as much?

Secondly, where am I soldering the signal wires to? Do I have to re-route my battery wires? Sorry if this makes little sense. I’m pretty clueless when it comes to this stuff but easier to try and figure it out. I’ll attach some pics, hopefully they will be of use. 

Cheers in advance!

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[ImTriggerHappy]

Use the double signal wire. These go from your trigger contacts.

You de-solder the existing wires from the trigger and just use the supplied signal wires. Then you run new wires from your motor directly to the mosfet and the battery plugs into that.

Plug the signal wire into the mosfet and all done.

There should be a guide with a diagram on the Gate website.

Edit: Here is a pic View attachment 43612

 

[Philby21]

This is pretty simple.

Basically you wire the connections from the deans plug directly to the motor, that means unsoldering the motor wires that currently connect to your trigger switch and soldering them together, leave them outside the gearbox.

Use the two wire trigger loom and solder this to your trigger switch, doesn't matter which way round they go as they're only there to create a circuit.  Route the wires through your gearbox and out the back using the channels the old wiring was in and plug this into the mosfet.  (You might want to do this before you do the soldering in case the black wires are too long and need trimming, don't forget to leave a small amount of wire to actually solder to the trigger contacts)

Plug your motor connections' deans plug into the mosfet, put the reassembled gearbox back into the rest of your gun and reassemble everything else - reconnecting your motor of course (make sure the wires are the right way round).

Connect your battery to your mosfet and away you go!

I have the same mosfet in my G36 and it's made the trigger response really snappy, but then I did a load of other upgrades at the same time and I'm running on 11.1 LiPos so that might have something to do with it too!

(aaaannnddd I typed all this out and Trigger beat me to it!!)

 

[WolfmanBarrett]

Guys! Big help. With both of your explanations I think I’ve got it! I’ll have a stab at it tomorrow night

 

[WolfmanBarrett]

Took it to a game last Sunday. Wanted to say it worked a treat. Thankyou both so much for your help!

 

[Philby21]

Happy to help, as I'm sure Trigger is ? ?

 

[E21A]

Thread hijack. 

This is being a active braking mosfet means I can bin off the AR latch, correct? 

Edit: seen in the blurb for it that it states electronic fuse, does this mean I don’t need a normal fuse?  

 

[WolfmanBarrett]

Yeah you can bin off the anti reversal latch.

however like me you might end up getting double feeding issues caused by over rotation. I’m now in the process of trying to sort that issue  

trying out a sector chip and lower spring.

In regards to fuses I suppose more then one can’t hurt, I’m not really very sure about that though.

 

[Lozart]

Thread hijack. 

This is being a active braking mosfet means I can bin off the AR latch, correct? 

Edit: seen in the blurb for it that it states electronic fuse, does this mean I don’t need a normal fuse?  

Yeah you can bin off the anti reversal latch.

however like me you might end up getting double feeding issues caused by over rotation. I’m now in the process of trying to sort that issue  

trying out a sector chip and lower spring.

In regards to fuses I suppose more then one can’t hurt, I’m not really very sure about that though.

It's only a simple mosfet, if you remove the ARL you won't stop the piston returning under spring pressure in auto (AB only really works in Semi). Better off leaving it in there. If you're worried about gearbox lockups you need a mosfet that does full cycle completion like the Gate Titan.

 

[Prisce]

I wouldn’t get rid of the ARL, the only RIF I have removed the ARL In has had feeding issues. 

The Gate Titan has an electronic fuse, you can keep a normal fuse for added safety, but its not required.(more resistance too)

Thread hijack. 

This is being a active braking mosfet means I can bin off the AR latch, correct? 

Edit: seen in the blurb for it that it states electronic fuse, does this mean I don’t need a normal fuse?  

 

[E21A]

It's only a simple mosfet, if you remove the ARL you won't stop the piston returning under spring pressure in auto (AB only really works in Semi). Better off leaving it in there. If you're worried about gearbox lockups you need a mosfet that does full cycle completion like the Gate Titan.

It’s for a DMR so will be semi auto only. It was was my understanding that it was active braking which was cycle completing? 

 

[Lozart]

It’s for a DMR so will be semi auto only. It was was my understanding that it was active braking which was cycle completing? 

Active braking just stops the motor quicker. To achieve full cycle completion you need a sensor on the gears to measure one full cycle (usually on the sector gear). You can achieve a sort of cycle completion without the sensor but it relies on an accurate measurement of the cycle time and being able to program the point at which you brake the motor to ensure one and only one cycle, some mosfets can do that (I believe the Burst Wizard is one, Gate Warfet is another) but not the NanoAAB. I have a NanoAAB in one of my guns and it's a good basic mosfet but I wouldn't want to rely on it to stop the gearbox locking up.

 

[ImTriggerHappy]

Better to leave the AR latch in. As @Lozart said you need something like a Titan for true cycle completion detection. Even using those you leave the AR in as back up.

 

[E21A]

Fair enough. Shame as AR latches are a pain in the dick. ?

 

[ImTriggerHappy]

Fair enough. Shame as AR latches are a pain in the dick. ?

Put a decent magnet on the back and they are easy.

 

[WolfmanBarrett]

My motor was really heating up when I left the AR latch on though. But taking it out gave me the double feed problem

Sorry for wrong advise though dude ?

Best listening to the others  

 

[Lozart]

My motor was really heating up when I left the AR latch on though. But taking it out gave me the double feed problem

The motor heats up due to the active braking. The double feeding is because it's not doing cycle completion.

 

[Sitting Duck]

My motor was really heating up when I left the AR latch on though. But taking it out gave me the double feed problem

Sorry for wrong advise though dude ?

Best listening to the others  

The day AEG's use stepper motors or some other locked solid motor is the day you can remove the AR latch

If when you removed the AR latch it tried to feed or rather chamber two BB's.....

It loaded first bb into hop and started to chamber it to the bucking.....

then as it over-run a little, box/drivechain started to roll back with no AR latch.....

nozzle retracts a little and that is how the second bb started to load into hop unit

The AR latch & spring adds very very little to the drivechain's resistance

I'd say the tappet plate spring has more drag/resistance than the AR latch spring

If a gun/box is allowed to roll back after over-cycling quite a bit

then with a trimmed tappet fin, or even on some std fins you can get sector cam smashing into fin

(risking damage from sector cam/delay clip mullering the fin or snapping fin off the tappet plate - yeah not ideal)

As AEG motors are free rolling, the moment the power stops, even with AB the brake is only briefly applied

the moment the power stops at motor, the main spring if pre-cocked will start to cycle backwards from tension

Even mosfet manufactures - think BTC said you could remove it but gave unwise advice and the general rule is you keep AR

naaahhh - you need or should refit the AR latch & with a tiny neodym magnet it is a breeze....

1 or two of these 10mm neodym's will be perfect underneath (cheers to Samurai & others for top tip).....

The AB reverses polarity creating wear/heat at motor when trigger released

spam loads on semi any any gun warms up a bit

with AB spamming on semi the warmth increases from the AB not AR

use a tiny magnet under box when closing as been said

AR is steel/ferrous/magnetic so will hold it place

(alas trigger is alloy so this trick doesn't work on triggers, but gluing spring to trigger tang can help for jumpy triggers)