Hi Power Mk3

[Cyberlawyer]

What did you do???

Mine is currently in the back of a UPS truck so I’d be interested to know for when it arrives later today.

 

[EDcase]

What did you do???

Mine is currently in the back of a UPS truck so I’d be interested to know for when it arrives later today.

I don't know what I did to improve the fps to be honest.

I did a little mod to the tiny hop rubber part but that wouldn't affect fps.

Could just be that taking it apart and re-assembling improved the fitment or as you said maybe it had to wear-in a bit?

I'm currently trying to do a video on it.

Yours may be better out of the box

 

[EvilMonkee]

Shame, and this is the improved version.....

 

[DrAlexanderTobacco]

 

[Cyberlawyer]

Well mine arrived, and out of the box it was utter rubbish. I had the same issue with BBs hooking to the left. It also wouldn’t get though a mag without venting gas and the mag dropped out every other shot.

Taking apart the hop and putting it back together seemed to have fixed the hooking to the left issue (there was also way too much hop out of the box, it was over hopping .3g BBs) The mag catch screw was loose and tightening that seems to have fixed the random mag drops. A spray of silicone into the BBU seems to have improved the gas efficiency so it will at least finish a mag. (I also expect this to get better with more use as the piston head swells to a better seal).

Is it the best airsoft pistol I have ever had, no it’s a long long way short. Even a bog standard WE Glock will out perform it in every way, however I can’t help but like it, because it is a skirmishable MK3 hi-power and it feels just right. I even like the trigger as it really does feel like a real HP (which is the first RS pistol I learned to shoot with) it has the same slightly long and ‘grindy’ take up which releases the mag safety and then a break like a glass rod. 

I don’t think it is fair to crono it or test accuracy until it’s broken in a bit, but I expect both to be no more than ok, but fine for a skirmish back-up, that will go awesomely with my MP5 GBBR for that full SAS vibe.

As noted above The hop is beyond primitive, so the only replacements are going to be OEM WE Parts. The brass grub screw that applies the hop is also comically tiny, I can see that working its way lose and disappearing into thin air at a skirmish so once the hop is set right I’ll use a pin to dab a tiny blob of thread lock into the edge of the tread in the hope that it will work it’s way down a bit and it is enough to stop it vanishing.

 

[heroshark]

sounds like the ct25 hop. I ripped mine out cut a proper window and made a flat hop in the ct25.

 

[EDcase]

sounds like the ct25 hop. I ripped mine out cut a proper window and made a flat hop in the ct25.

Would like to know more about that if you can explain how you did it...

Here's my first attempt at doing a review: 

 

[heroshark]

Ah yes it's the same. Terrible design gives such inconsistent spin it's unbelievable. I understand it in the ct25 with the space. Suppose it's kinda tight. Took a small hand file to the barrel. Widening and lengthening into a larger square window. Then made a hop patch to fit the window. It halved the grouping size. 

 

[EDcase]

OK, so not adjustable then?

I guess you have to modify the hop patch until you get the right amount of hop and then its set for good?

 

[heroshark]

Still adjustable. I can't remember if I did it in my CT but I've used a piece of tin can to back it before now on other guns I've Modded hops in. So it's not just the screw against the rubber.

 

[EDcase]

I think I understand.  Of course a few pics would help ?

I put a very thin layer of superglue on top of the micro-nub to stiffen the top and make the pressure more even but its so small that its still quite useless

 

[heroshark]

Not pulling it apart in case it doesn't go back right, sorry.

 

[Cyberlawyer]

Just one note on the review, the outer barrel is removable. There is a grove in the top of what would be the chamber that allows it to pass over the feeder under the nozzle. You just need to line it up properly (a little pressure on the nozzle may also be needed).

 

[EDcase]

Not pulling it apart in case it doesn't go back right, sorry.

I perfectly understand ?

Just one note on the review, the outer barrel is removable. There is a grove in the top of what would be the chamber that allows it to pass over the feeder under the nozzle. You just need to line it up properly (a little pressure on the nozzle may also be needed).

Ah thanks, I did see that but it wouldn't go through for me.  Maybe a bit tight

 

[Cyberlawyer]

Ok so after reading some of the comments and having a closer look at the parts laid out in front of me I think I have a plan for an upgraded hop solution.

Basically I plan to buy a new barrel (probably a crazy jet) that is at least 30 mm longer than the current stock barrel. I’ll cut it to length and then modify it fit it using the existing fixing. I can then cut a proper hop window in it and glue a bit of hop rubber into the space (basically an R hop), but I might actually use the bit of a ML with the contact patch as I don’t think the tiny brass set screw offers enough travel for a true R-hop to work. The other option being drilling out the hole for the hop adjuster to use a longer set screw, but I’d like to avoid this so I can change it back to stock. I can then glue a 5mm (Ish) square cut from a tin can to the top of the hop to spread the pressure from the brass screw evenly.

if it works it will be a big improvement, will be totally reversible and will only cost the price of a barrel and hop rubber. If it doesn’t then I’ll only have wasted £20 ish. I won’t be able to get round to it for a week or two, but I’ll try and take some photos when I do and report back.

 

[EDcase]

Sounds good.

I'd like to get a spare hop unit so I can try to modify the hop adjustment too.

 

[heroshark]

Why go with a longer barrel and cut?What's to stop you fitting a barrel the correct length and using the window that's already there?

 

[Cyberlawyer]

Why go with a longer barrel and cut?What's to stop you fitting a barrel the correct length and using the window that's already there?

Two reasons:

1. I will need to get the barrel to attach to the current fitting points. From memory there is a grove on the underside of the VSR barrel that stops the hop rubber from rotating that is just where a grub screw needs to tighten up.

2. In order for the feed mechanism to work there is a rubber breach seal (looks like the front half of a VSR hop rubber before the barrel starts) that sits in its its own retaining loop that buts up to the barrel. For this to work it will need a solid ring of barrel to seal against so it will need an AEG style hop window rather than a VSR style cut out.

I guess I could try an AEG barrel, and cut and recrown the muzzle end, but I can see a lot them have a groove in the bottom as well so not sure it would be any better. They also seem seem to be more expensive than a long VSR pistol barrel.

 

[heroshark]

Try a standard AEG barrel. The groove should actually help locate the retaining screw and barrel orientation. Could even add a divet for the screw to sit. Cutting the barrel flat and making a hop window are the hardest part if it's ready done you are a good way there.

 

[Cyberlawyer]

I think I am going to try a test run with an old WE GBBR barrel I have sitting in my parts bin. It’s pretty long (370mm from memory) so I should get several tries out of it
 

I am fortunate enough to have access to a milling machine so actually cutting the hop window is probably the easiest part of the operation. A couple of passes at right angles to the barrel at the correct depth should do it.  I’m more concerned with cutting and fixing the hop rubber as I can see no way of doing it other than by hand with a razor blade a good eye and a very steady hand. I also don’t have any spares kicking around so will need to order a couple specifically for this purpose.