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Cyma Cm.621 Upgrades

yeah ididnt think it would be quick spring yeah have seen a few vids on taken those ones apart now :)

i think ill just wait like u said no point taken 2 apart and having non on the go :)

oh i know bud its more for the future dmr i plan to build but would throw in the 516 till i start that

yeah bud will be keeping it simple just now just the piston change on the 621 :) then when shit breaks ill replace as an when needed :)

 
an old review of a 515...







now a bit of a heads up of what might be in 516...

https://translate.google.co.uk/translate?hl=en&sl=fr&u=http://www.france-airsoft.fr/forum/index.php%3Fshowtopic%3D198758&prev=search

could be clear old stuff or blue tappet plates etc...

think I got a distant French relative coz he goes into mega detail on it

can be a bitch to remove on some Cyma's them two lugs really make it harder to get out







gIYTT3k.jpg


them 2 little lugs - jeez they make it very hard to easily remove - really don't need them to be that difficult

 
yeah that seems like a total ball ache lol!!!

 
protip: in airsoft boots and eyepro are the 2 things you absolutely should not cut corners with.

it might sound insane, but i'd rather run around outdoors with £200 boots and a £100 gun than a £300 gun and a pair of trainers.

other clothing you can get away with pretty much whatever you like bearing in mind you may end up wading through brambles. outdoors camo helps but honestly some drab greens/greys and someone who knows what they're at can still hide, camo pattern doesn't matter if you're behind them :P .

if you're looking to get setup on a budget then surplus dpm or flecktarn is absolutely fine (indeed i'd argue that flecktarn is one of the better patterns for our woodlands). gloves and something covering the ears is a good idea.

whilst i do recommend the warfet as a good bit of kit, the money might be better spent elsewhere for the time being.

you could look at the nanoaab edit: nanoasr as mentioned below, which offers very basic functionality (protects the trigger contacts using lipo's) but will be a direct swap for a warfet if you wanna go down that route later.

 
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nanoasr - the non-AB fet

don't think you want AB

(straight swap for warfet if wanted)

x-asr or a cheap perun basic fet be best option perhaps

can afford to leave it in there for low price option

totally agree good eyepro & boots with support

(especially for kids - whatever the size, even the really big older ones)

 
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I did wonder why say AB for a modest gun

when we know they sometimes stop 99% precocked on mild speeds

or COL still partially raised

basically it's a cheap but half decent gun - just don't go tooo nutz on it

I love cheap shit - even if it is a bit qwirky (like moi)

well no - I'm just fucking weird than just a little qwirky

 
I did wonder why say AB for a modest gun

when we know they sometimes stop 99% precocked on mild speeds

or COL still partially raised


"never attribute to malice that which can be adequately explained by incompetence" :P

Ibasically it's a cheap but half decent gun - just don't go tooo nutz on it

I love cheap shit - even if it is a bit qwirky (like moi)

well no - I'm just fucking weird than just a little qwirky


cheap gun with a bit of tlc can be a right laugh, still have my wee jg ticking along rightly even if it looks a little worse for wear these days.

 
protip: in airsoft boots and eyepro are the 2 things you absolutely should not cut corners with.

it might sound insane, but i'd rather run around outdoors with £200 boots and a £100 gun than a £300 gun and a pair of trainers.

other clothing you can get away with pretty much whatever you like bearing in mind you may end up wading through brambles. outdoors camo helps but honestly some drab greens/greys and someone who knows what they're at can still hide, camo pattern doesn't matter if you're behind them :P .

if you're looking to get setup on a budget then surplus dpm or flecktarn is absolutely fine (indeed i'd argue that flecktarn is one of the better patterns for our woodlands). gloves and something covering the ears is a good idea.

whilst i do recommend the warfet as a good bit of kit, the money might be better spent elsewhere for the time being.

you could look at the nanoaab edit: nanoasr as mentioned below, which offers very basic functionality (protects the trigger contacts using lipo's) but will be a direct swap for a warfet if you wanna go down that route later.
nah defo not insane bud its same when come to biking aswell,and defo not gonna cut it on eye protection my eyes are bad enough as is haha,

yeah theres a surplus not far from me that ill be hitting up for stuff,yeah will see what stuff they have and what i like and go from there :)

doesnt the nano need hard wired in though? was looking for more plug and play tbh just now as i can solder a deans on but have never really done much more soldering wise

 
plug n play mosfets do not protect the trigger contacts from arcing

Avacado, Burst Wizard are two of the older plug n play mosfets

(need a fucking mensa test to get ya around programming the sods though)

but did not protect trigger contacts in plug n play mode

the Burst Wizard could be used as plug/play and also hard wired in by adding the signal wire

THEN it protected the contacts properly

depends on what you after fancy feature bollox

or contact protection...

https://www.airsoftworld.net/airsoft-gun-spare-parts/aeg-spares/internal-parts-1/mosfets

the £11 perun will suffice for basic mosfet - but it is FUCKING TINY

or for cheap make-do contact protection you could just add a diode

to reduce the spark from EMF inductive load from motor

the big fuck off spark like a spark plug isn't when the contact is made

but mostly when the switch opens again and the massive spike appears

as the switch opens - from the energy/zap from motor

(really freaky scientific/physics shit we didn't take note of at school)






or you can call it a fancy fucking name SLE bollox

Switch Life Extender - cheeky bastids it's a diode ffs




 
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was more for the jam protection i was gonna throw it in ther but will go the hard wired route on it when something breaks and have a reason to open her up :) as really dont fancy trying to add a diode lol

 





Diode is easy on a cheap std motor with tabs at sides

it is other motor types like G&G/SHS you might need to careful of

std Cyma motors have tabs at sides - so a schottky diode is no biggy

but yup - what until stuff breaks or really need to open her up = wise decision

 
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i think its just more my confidence with electrics tbh than it actualy being hard lol ive alwasy been daunted by wireing for some reason but have never actualy messed up on anything ive had to do from sorting led indicators and splicing into main wiring harnes to fit an alarm or to rewiring the led controller for my aio on my pc lol

 
like many things - the more you practice etc...

but soldering/teching - basically anything like this

is like riding a bike - not so much you don't forget it

but more learning to ride a bike for first time

you can read all this crap & watch all the YT clips

but in the end you gotta just have a go and pedal like fuck

as you wibble wobble your way through life figuring shit out

hopefully not falling arse over tit too often armed with a little idea of what to do

then it's a matter of keeping at it I guess

 
like many things - the more you practice etc...

but soldering/teching - basically anything like this

is like riding a bike - not so much you don't forget it

but more learning to ride a bike for first time

you can read all this crap & watch all the YT clips

but in the end you gotta just have a go and pedal like fuck

as you wibble wobble your way through life figuring shit out

hopefully not falling arse over tit too often armed with a little idea of what to do

then it's a matter of keeping at it I guess
yeah just repitition really

haha yeah well i think when i evetualy do my dmr build ill do full wiring myself  :)

haha yeah sounds like how i get through life haha

aye bud :) again thank you

 
soldering is a fun one, at the risk of getting flamed whatever you do don't ask an electronic engineer anything about it.

because it'll be "you gotta have a 300w temperature controlled iron with adjustable tips and you've gotta use xxx type of solder with yyy type of flux and don't use those sponge things use the brillo pad instead for cleaning because the tips will last longer"

or you could do hamsters patent redneck method using the 40w fixed iron that came with the real robots magazine from the 90's and the cheapest ass solder you can get on amazon, get some solder on the wire, blob of solder on the contact, then melt them 2 suckers together, just don't forget to put the heatshrink on first....

just a shame it's not a v3 box- external contacts.

 
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