Ak Motor Cage, Is it Supposed to Be Like This?

[Skara]

Just a quick one this time.

I am working on my ak, I needed to redo the wiring because at the time I did a crap job, I also wanted to solve the motor whining so I reshimmed the box (bevel was a hair too tight and the spur was a bit loose) and in the process came across this:

This is how the cage sits when closed, I don't think it's right, as the two locking lugs near the pinion should (imo) sit flush with each other.

Is it a factory fuckup that requires a new cage? Or am I a retard?

This allows the motor to slightly spin on its axis when operating and it causes vibrations.

Any thoughts?

 

[Adolf Hamster]

it's a pretty common occurrence for ak motor cages, tends not to be an issue.

you only really run into trouble when you start mixing/matching cages and boxes then it gets fun.

 

[Skara]

Mmmkay.

Nothing to worry about then (bar the motor vibrating like a fancy dildo)

Alright, thanks

 

[Skara]

Small update, for some reason the motor vibrates less than before reshimming and is a hair quieter overall.

Plus the new wiring (alpha wire) seems to have slightly increased the trigger response and cycle rate over the shit job I did with the stock silver plated wire it comes with.

Quite satisfied with the results.

 

[Sitting Duck]

I was gonna say just wrap some tape bodge to hold motor still in cage

or

some tape on outside of motor's curved sides so snug fit in cage

(Some motors are a whisker fatter/thinner)

Alpha wire though not an ultra thick 16awg

Due to ultra thin tough old boots insulation

But also about 1.33 diameter of actual wire

(there are some 16awg labelled wires with near 1.5 wire diameter)

However I'm noticing some silver wire in clear insulation

labelled as "low resistance" wire isn't all that ultra either

(HB 904g uses 17awg but is DE FFS)

Also the reshim may have helped too

But yeah Alpha is pretty oomphy for such thin looking wire

 

[Skara]

Yup, alpha wire is great, I need to stock some more from Pete before brexit fucks me up with import fees

 

[Adolf Hamster]

And here's me with some random wiring i grabbed from rs ages ago

 

[Sitting Duck]

Depends on the wire itself

Solid wire/cable is awesome but cunt to work with (depends on gun)

LAPP silicone 16awg is more like 15awg & 2.8mm thick

as opposed to Turnigy type silicone at 3mm~3.1mm (bit too thick)

Alpha 16awg is only like 2.1mm thick - but little bit stiffer due to tough thin insulation

Alpha 14awg is 2.5mm thick still thinner than silicone 16awg but is like solid wire

(a real cunt to shape/bend & only for extreme demanding builds)

any decent stuff will do in the end - just some stuff is a bit better than others

V3 cages - that v3 cage looks like a bit "like" a JG one

JG use jap head screws, where as Cyma tend to use countersunk heads on their cages

not a big difference but on one terminal the bulkier head can get close to 2.8mm connector

and need to ensure the insulation at this point is very good condition - even 2 lots of insulation

as I had a minor short due to screw head starting to rub on insulation there

On looking at a Cyma 02B cage - it is countersunk...

BUT on the other side they have a long thread casting which can impede on the other teminal...

see the underside of countersunk - great big fucking m3 threaded collar

not so on JG AK cage....

but watch out for the slightly more proud jap/dome m3 screws

(especially if sprung washers used)

See now if manufacturers actually fucking thought about all this...

then they would go with something like Cyma's countersunk stuff

BUT place a bolt running through two different ways to clamp together

with a m3 collar on the other side of motor terminals

(and countersunk hole where the motor terminals actually are)

zero chance of insulation getting caught/chewed/catching and risking shorting out

On reflection - this lockdown crap is starting to get to me

FFS I REALLY need to get out more if I'm conducting an OCD study of motor cages FFS