CoWpLaGuEd

Ok, I think this will work. I've made a double switch from a miniature toggle switch and a microswitch. So you have to throw the toggle before you can press the switch. This should prevent any accidental firing (I will also fit a shield over the microswitch). I make all my MOSFETs modular so you can swap them out if there are any issues. It works as expected, flick the switch, press the button and it cycles. I'll have to wait for it to lock again to fully test it, but this sure beats having to take the top reciever off any try and poke the cutoff lever with a screwdriver....

I've not radiused it... I should have, but getting the shell back together with the spring I had was such a nightmare that that the plan is to swap to a better shell at a later date. Local rules are a bit lapse, it would be good if they had a rule like that, I've been hit a few times by people with DMRs that they seem to be able to fire about as quick as full auto on semi. If the button was on the MOSFET unit then you'd have to open the stock to get to it, so it's not like you could use it in game, and with a high torque motor and fairly gentle 16:1 gears it shouldn't struggle. I might give this a go as a trigger control training device. If that fails then maybe I'll buy a fancy MOSFET.

Hi, yea it's a basic irlb3034 diy setup relying on the internal diode. So shouldn't be doing any active breaking, just stops the contacts arcing. I run them in my other guns. Hmm yea seem to be about £45, I'll do some reading up, most of the other suggestions i'd seen were +£100. Thanks. Maybe if he does well in his exams 🧐

Hello to everyone on the airsoft-forums ... forums 🤔 .. I'm troubleshooting an issue with my son's DMR. It's a budget build based on a new Cyma with a V2 gearbox (yes I know it's crap). Now I'm aware of the locking issue with V2 gearboxes and over/under cycling, and ultimately this looks like it's caused by not fully pulling the trigger between shots. But it may be easier to come up with a technical fix than stop an adrenaline filled kid from smashing the trigger as quick as he can. The gearbox is running a high torque motor and 16:1 gears, it's on a 3s LiPo via a 3034 mosfet. Modified selector plate to prevent full auto. My assumption is that despite the lipo and high torque motor the 16:1 gears are not quick enough to help reduce the likelihood of the gearbox locking and with a M140 spring I'd be concerned about running it too fast without changing the gearbox housing to something a bit stronger. So I've currently resigned myself to look for a solution to easily unlock it rather than prevent the lock happening. I appear to have three options (or two and I've made one up that might not work) 1) make it more accessible to access the tip of the cutoff lever so it can be manually pushed into full auto. 2) allow access to the anti-reverse latch to allow it to spin back (don't like the sound of that one...) 3) (and this is the one I'm unsure of as I've not seen it suggested) add a small button to the mosfet to bypass the trigger and force it to cycle. open to options if anyone has any words of wisdom. I've been thinking of weird options like adding a small cap to the Mosfet (like you would to eliminate microswitch bounce) to make it fully cycle even if you did a short press.. but then that's just as likely to keep cycling after a full press and cause the same issues. The key thing here really is keeping within his budget of about £0 ... so a £15 set of 13:1 gears might be ok but a £100 fancy mosfet is not.