Andy321
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Posts posted by Andy321
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Hi thanks for the replies.
The more I'm hearing and reading I'm starting to regret going the hpa route as I'm now paranoid my tanks are going to randomly explode and decapitate anything in there path 😬
Please someone convince me this hpa game is safe as long as your not a complete knobber and have respect.
As for the compressor in there shop, it was the type you can get on Amazon, same as the one made by Yong Heng but it was unbranded. They filled my tanks from empty to 3000psi in about 5 mins, tanks were slightly warm to the touch after filling (not very warm). It auto shut off at 3000 psi (although I would never leave a compressor unattended whilst filling) and the tanks were showing 3k on the gauges and maintained that same 3k once cooled. If I did get one I was also looking at picking up a molecular sieve filter to run with it.
I have been looking at stirrup pumps as well. Roughly how many pumps does it take to fill a 48ci tank from let's say 1k to 3k psi?
Other option is a scuba tank. To increase on the number of refills between getting it filled up, could I pickup a 300 bar tank (5 or 7 litre), have it filled to roughly 250/260 bar and use that for more fills on my 48ci tanks? Again being careful and slow on the valve as the scuba tank would have the potential to overfill the smaller tanks. I've read mixed opinions on this but I see alot of people doing it this way without issue along as you are slow and steady and have respect.
Thanks again.
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Hi all
So in a moment of craziness I yesterday took a visit to high pressure airsofts store in Scunthorpe (fantastic set of lads btw) and after dropping a wod, I am now the proud owner of a Gen 2 Wolverine MTW billet SBR.
I'm not a novice to airsoft but this is my first venture in to the world of HPA. The MTW build quality is brilliant also its so quiet and the trigger response is something else 👌
I picked up all the kit needed including 2X 48ci 3000psi tanks. I'm now looking at means of filling the tanks, I don't want to solely rely on my field for refills in case of problems their end and being unable to play with the MTW. I would like to be able to top them up at home before game days and for plinking/testing.
So I was looking at a 5 or 7 litre scuba tank for refills but the guys at high pressure airsoft filled my two new tanks with there compressor. I was shocked when it only took only about 5 mins per tank for a full fill. I was even more shocked when I saw it was one of the 300 bar compressors which can be had off Amazon for roughly £200ish (not much more than a scuba tank setup). The chaps in the store said it's been absolutely great for them and gets hammered daily refilling tanks.
So question is, have any of you got one of these and what's your thoughts? Are they a viable option to a scuba tank, I'm leaning towards one myself as it seems like the best option for me personally. I understand the importance of making sure the airfilter is clean and absolutely no oil getting in the fill valve.
A sneaky pic of the latest addition attached...
Thanks
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That's the thing see. In my old setup with the above complete list of bits fitted and only a M90 it was too hot at ~360 fps.
That's why I'm thinking I may leave the stock spring,piston/piston head and fit the rest of the stuff. If I'm lucky I may see around 330 fps like yours which I'll be happy with. Stands a good chance as this gun is shooting 305 fps stock.
I would like to get the action army 30k but I'm going to leave the stock motor in until it warrants replacing. On my old setup after the upgrades I was getting 15rps on the stock motor which sounded just right and the trigger response was nice and snappy thanks to the titan.
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The list of parts I've got is...
Gate titan
Prommy piston and piston head
Prommy cylinder
Prommy spring guide
Lonex gears
Lonex bushings
Lonex nozzle
Eagle6 M90 spring
Prommy 6.03 275mm barrel and purple bucking flat hop
Deans mod
Not sure what's going in yet though. Titan,spring guide, bushings,gears,nozzle and barrel will be for definite though. Not sure about the piston/piston head and spring as the I should get about 320~ fps without them and I'll be happy with that.
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Thought as much, thanks for putting my mind at rest 👍
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I think it's safe the assume these marks are from the casting process. I've watched a few videos on YouTube and can see the same sort of lines in the same places.
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Hi all,
Was going to tear down my new TM and fit a few parts but I've been halted by something I've seen and don't want to go any further till I came here for a bit of advise
I've tried my best the attached some decent photo's and was wondering are these "marks" on the gearbox what's been left from the casting process or "god forbid" cracks? Now it is late and I've had a couple beers so my eyes might be letting me down here. I'm thinking they are casting marks as when running a flat edge over them there is a slight step (if that makes sense), also if a apply a small amount of pressure they don't seem to open up any further. I've had a look at some images on the net and have noticed shadows etc in the same places on a few of them but it hard to tell definitely.
So question is, could some of you nice lot who have one of these guns/ V2 NGRS gearbox have a look to see if yours have the same?
BTW, this is a brand new stock gun (MK18) and has only fired about 30 shots.
Thanks in advance.
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If you have tried Eagle6 I suppose you have probably checked Firesupport also?
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Update on this....
I've now put this build together and it shoots lovely, my only regret is not buying a Gate titan earlier
Parts below...
Gate titan advanced
Prometheus piston
Prometheus piston head
Prometheus type D cylinder
Prometheus bearing spring guide
Lonex TM recoil gear set
Lonex 5.9mm metal bushings
Eagle6 M90 spring
Prometheus 275.5mm 6.03 barrel
Prometheus purple bucking (flat hopped)
Problem is, it's shooting hot which I wasn't expecting on the M90 spring. Tested with .25g bb's as I haven't got any .2g's at the mo, with these I'm getting 331fps consistently (hop off) which would work out about ~370fps on .2g bb's? This is with AOE corrected a small amount also. I know the air seal is good but does it seem like my M90 may not be a M90 after all? Or is the bearing spring guide along with the bearings in the prommy piston head the cause and I should order a M80 instead? I will be ordering some .2g bb's just to be sure.
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Thanks AlphaBear, my usual go to is maple leaf with omega or AK2M4's omega "clone" nub with good result. I do however have a prommy purple and flat nub lying round which I was thinking of giving a go.
Cheers Dave, yeah don't know why I even considered Nuprol for a second, I should know better. Thanks for the suggestion with the bevel/pinion, I may leave it for something to do later down the line though, I've already had to sneak the titan and other bits past the missus
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Great, that puts my mind at rest
I will stick it on the chrono when done to see where it's at.
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44 minutes ago, AlphaBear said:
Don't fit the original spring back in. The reason is that it's got a hook which 'hooks into the Marui piston head and it will not work with a prommy piston. Simples
Thanks, was pretty that would be the case.
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I was surprised as well when I opened it and noticed. Their is no noticeable wear anywhere on any of the other gears and the shimming/motor height was pretty decent. I will be giving it a full reshim following the pinion the bevel method when I put it back together.
The piston looks good as well with no wear, just the release tooth on the sector gear has worn down and now mimics the contour of the last tooth on the piston as obviously that metal must be stronger than the metal of the sector. Maybe I have just been unlucky 🤷♂️
It would probably carry on like a champ as it still seems to mesh fine with the Prometheus piston I will be fitting, but I will replace them for my piece of mind.
Also just to confirm, the standard spring won't work with the Prometheus piston head? Like I said, I have got an Eagle6 M90 spring, but I'm worried it may be slightly hot once paired with the bearing spring guide and Promy 6.03 barrel, time will tell.
Thank again.
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Yeah for the sake of possible frustration later down the line, I've gone and ordered a set of Lonex gears. Could of got Nuprol Marui gears for a bit less but I couldn't find info on who OEM them and whether they are decent or not, so I went with Lonex.
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Hi all,
I'm in the process of doing a few upgrades to my TM NGRS CQB-R. I will be fitting a Gate Titan and a couple other bits I've acquired over time which are;
Prometheus piston
Prometheus piston head
Prometheus type D cylinder
Prometheus bearing spring guide
Lonex 5.9mm metal bushings
Was going to fit the original spring back in but could someone confirm whether or not it will work with the Prometheus piston head? I do have a Eagle6 M90 spring if needed.
Anyway, I wasn't planning on replacing to gears due to keeping the power modest, but when I took it apart yesterday evening I noticed what looks like a small amount of wear on the sector gears release tooth (pics attached). Is this anything the worry about or is it normal? Should I purchase some upgrades gears while it's open, I would get Lonex gears if I did and can be had for around £50.
So would you bother replacing it? It seems to mesh well with the Prometheus piston, but I don't want to be going back inside after a could thousand rounds because the release tooth has s**t itself :) The gun has to now been running stock for about 5K rounds on 7.4v 1450mah 30C lipo's.
Thanks
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Yeah your right mate.
It would be worth the effort to SS if I was getting serious overspin/double shots in semi or encountering PME, but at the moment the gun sounds really nice and happy so I'd rather leave it alone
Plus I've ordered a few bits and pieces for my TM including a Gate Titan so I need to clear the work space ready for that lol.
By the way, these ZCI motors run so cool, was testing earlier and had no noticeable heat up in the grip at all!
Thanks
Andy
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Thanks for the reply. I really do think it's my OCD kicking in as I got curious and went to check my TM recoil running pretty much stock power (bearing spring guide) and gears, with the same 7.4v 1450mah battery it is overspinning about the same amount and I've never had a problem with that gun. Pics below.
Would their be any other benefit to SS the sector besides rectifying the overspin? Would I get slightly more trigger response and ROF or would those effects be negated due to then having to use a heavier spring to maintain fps?
Thanks again
Andy
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Hi,
A update on this then. I ordered a few parts and have just finished putting it together....
SHS 13:1 Gears
ZCI 22tpa motor
AOE corrected
Shimmed
Clean and lube
The gun shoots lovely (really does feel and sound like a different gun) nice a snappy on 7.4v lipos without a crazy high ROF which is what I was aiming for. However, I have a problem (or maybe not) with overspin.
I have attached some photo's showing how much the piston is being pulled back..
The pic showing 12mm on pull back is on a 7.4v 1450mah 30c Nuprol lipo
The second pic showing 17mm pull back is on a 7.4v 2200mah 25c lipo
The third pic is the resting position with the piston head against the cylinder head
So the question is... Should I worry about this and attempt to fix it by SS the sector? I know a AB mosfet would sort it but I'm not looking for one of those at the moment and would be quite happy to rectify it from a "mechanical" point of view if required rather than a mosfet.
I would prefer to use the 2200mah battery as the gun it a little more snappy with it due to the higher discharge. Also to note, I am getting no signs of pre engagement, no double shot on semi, no nasty sounds on auto, no wild fps inconsistences ( has a 1-2 fps variation).
Let me know if you would SS or is it beneficial to SS, or is it just my OCD kicking in :)
Thanks
Andy
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Hi all,
I've got a KWA Ronin T6 which I have given a few runs out as stock minus a maple leaf bucking and omega nub. I tend to only run my guns on 7.4v lipo's (1450mah 30c) and with these I've noticed the T6 seems to me a little sluggish and I'd like to increase the trigger response.
If I was to upgrade some parts internally I'm not sure on what would be the best match, I have some 13:1 SHS high speed gears knocking around so would like to utilise them if I was to go down this route, but not sure on the best motor to go with these or would the stock motor be fine? I'm looking for a nice snappy and fast cycle time / response but not crazy stupid ROF as I tend to shoot in semi mainly.
I'm not a novice when it come to gearboxes and teched on quite a few on my own AEG's and would be comfortable undertaking the work myself, , just I have not gone down the route of changing gears/motors so I'm not sure of the best combination of parts for what I'm looking to achieve (if required at all).
Would it make more sense to just give the thing a damn good service/shim and run it on 11.1v lipo's? Is this gun okay to run on 11.1v lipo's? Ideally I would like fast cycle time / response while maintaining the use of 7.4v lipo's.
Thanks in advance.
Andy
Compressor question
in High Pressure Air
Posted
Wow thanks for the detailed response, some great info there, much appreciated.
Think I might go down the scuba tank route for refills. Contacted a dive shop near me earlier today, he said they have some 12 litre 232 bar tanks available for £100. Only issue being that there used, he did say they have been recently hydro tested. Should I be concerned buying a used tank? Also roughly how many top up fills would I get from a 12 litre 232 bar tank, filling 48ci tanks to roughly 2500-2800 psi?
Thanks