Wat Am Bset Gnu? for Real Tho)

[AlphaBear]

Illy is trash and overpriced

Wash your mouth out with Soap young man.... I dare you to shout that out in Trieste...

 

[Skara]

Hah nothing offensive @Skara!

Yes meant what @Speedbird_666 said.

I doubt it'll look like that for long!

Why don't you Rhop it?

No worries  I clearly don't sleep enough lol.

I have tested a R-Hop comparing it to a Maple Leaf MR-Hop rubber, and the ML does the exact same thing but it's less of a pain to install. both systems sent 0.32s up to 60/65 metres with good consistency (used Geoffs for testing).

 

[Skara]

Chronoed at 0.83J on 0.25s, Swapped the stock hop rubber for a ML, now chronoes at 0.95J, bang fucking on for my limit.

The rof in a 7.4 is a bit shit though at 13 bb/s. Will check again on a 11.1 when I get the chance to wire the nanohard in.

Wash your mouth out with Soap young man.... I dare you to shout that out in Trieste...

Lol, for real tho, Illy coffee is overpriced for the quality, I personally use a Lavazza variety that is not available in stores, but can't remember the exact name. A hair more expensive than regular Lavazza coffee, but god it tastes so good.

 

[Davegolf]

What is this mythical coffee then? Spill the beans ?

I wanna try some before Bada Bing sniffs it out

 

[Skara]

It's called Lavazza In Black, it's 100% Arabica.

Anyway, suggestions for a slightly faster motor that still falls under the high torque definition? Not looking at speedsoft levels of ROF, just something that puts me in the high teens on a 7.4

 

[Stratton Oakmont]

The jk army green and red is good, asg boost

 

[Sitting Duck]

It's called Lavazza In Black, it's 100% Arabica.

Anyway, suggestions for a slightly faster motor that still falls under the high torque definition? Not looking at speedsoft levels of ROF, just something that puts me in the high teens on a 7.4

If you are on std gears then likely the usual SHS HT motor from Pete

roughly a 28~30k motor, decent build & bang for buck etc...

30,000 / 18.65 = 1.6 (x10 = expected rps)

maybe add on 15% for deans/fet & 320fps looking at 18rps aprox

doubt if you would hit 20rps unless it was a faster motor of say 33~35k & ultra thick wire & bit of luck

If you was using 13:1 gears then a 25k motor will do you for 18rps

possible a 22tpa motor & 13:1 gears, issue is the tpa & rpm figures of motors are like airsoft meters

(them labels vary shitloads & so called ratings a very rough ballpark figure)

The green RA motor I found to be slightly slightly slower than an old original SHS HT

say Green RA was like 28k & SHS was 30k but could be due to just sod's law in batch/spec

(slightly thinner/thicker wire in windings, efficiency in shimming of motor, magnet strength etc..)

hence the SHS/RA is imho a 28k~30k motor on std gears pulling about 11~12 amp draw say for 16~18rps 7.4v

this is give or take a round or two coz no two builds are the exact same & all that

plus lipo burst/capacity & fuck knows what else will give slightly different results

you could SS too on that barrel even but won't change much, just a slight bit of semi snap maybe

though SS & m110 should lower any slight overspin, so not need AB at 18rps

The old where you start & where do you stop I guess

If it has a basic mosfet or the ASR version I'd probably just drop the SHS HT in for 7.4v

(or just use a compact 11.1v on lame std motor for 20rps)

if it had to be opened (breaks/low compression/performance) I might SS 2 or 3 teeth at some point

The SHS HT is more of a balanced motor at 16tpa - ish & ish being the word

the ZCI HT is more worthy of the HT name at 22tpa

you just don't want a high speed motor, so a SHS HT or there abouts should do you

 

[Davegolf]

Swear you have this stuff on a copy paste basis now @Sitting Duck ?

It's called Lavazza In Black, it's 100% Arabica.

Anyway, suggestions for a slightly faster motor that still falls under the high torque definition? Not looking at speedsoft levels of ROF, just something that puts me in the high teens on a 7.4

I don't know what ratio that brick you have runs, but assuming 18ish:1 then a decent 22000 motor on an 11.1 pulling 340 FPS will get you around the 20s on ROF.

You WILL NEED active brake for that.

Or run a 9.9 LiFe which will get you in the mid/high teens without active braking.

 

[Sitting Duck]

Swear you have this stuff on a copy paste basis now @Sitting Duck ?

pretty much same ol' same ol' from me I guess

would have thought most would know the gist by now

SHS HT will fit the bill in many 7.4v cases on 18:1 or 13:1 depending on what you are aiming for

or

just push 11.1v on lame stock motors - eg:

AK with a large battery space stock like 28a

or

M4 with spacious fixed stock

£30 for new motor is a fair bit of an investment but worth it in numerous cases

though at the same time, you can get similar results (11.1v) for little outlay if possible

just weigh up the options and take a calculated stab at it and do it the best you can

yes should have said SHS HT (without the maths & faff)

but just showing my workings out to explain my reasoning

I know I waffle but try to simplify it

jeez some of them calculations on gear ratios & relation to motor speeds & final rps

is like a friggin' Oxford Maths paper at times, when in many cases all that geek shit is way OTT

gear ratio = bevel gear rotations to complete cycle x 3

motor rpm / gear ratio (x10) = rough ball park figure of expected rps on 7.4v

(x1.55 for expected rps on 11.1v)

no calculator or pen/paper required

though my fingers hurt at times & I go through keyboards every couple of months

 

[Davegolf]

How many fingers do you have?

Do you live near a nuclear power station??

 

[Sitting Duck]

How many fingers do you have?

Do you live near a nuclear power station??

I have trained to also use my toes so now have 20 pinkies to type with

Chernobyl was caused by a Faulty Nuprol Lipo according to Alex Jones

 

[Davegolf]

Figures, Nuprol stuff is not safe ?

 

[Sitting Duck]

Figures, Nuprol stuff is not safe ?

charging wise I'll agree

AEG build wise, some bespoke micro switch gearbox stuff not thought through

in other areas some stuff is OK & this where stickers/branding gets costly

as usually it's just oem SHS/RA with a Nuprol sticker costing an extra £10 or so

Are conspiracy theorists completely mad or just ahead of the curve...

 

[Skara]

Thanks for the detailed answers.

I'll get the SHS 16tpa motor then, along with a set of 13:1s to keep as spares once something fails.

Meanwhile I guess I'll use it on a 11.1 once I wire the fet in..

 

[Sitting Duck]

Thanks for the detailed answers.

I'll get the SHS 16tpa motor then, along with a set of 13:1s to keep as spares once something fails.

Meanwhile I guess I'll use it on a 11.1 once I wire the fet in..

Well you don't want 11.1v AND SHS 13:1 - just 11.1v as a cheap stop gap

you don't HAVE TO install the mosfet right away either on a std motor (with tabs)

you could just install a sb160 schotky diode across the cheap std motor with tabs to reduce arcing for a while...

NB - DO NOT WRAP ONE AROUND A SHS, G&G MOTOR

as the two screws connect/short through the mounting plate under end bell 101% of the time

(but are insulated with plastic washers/sometime plastic screws etc... so just stopped from a short)

YOU PLACE A DIODE IN A SHS TYPE MOTOR YOU CAN SHORT THE TWO TERMINALS

(in a cheap std "2 tab" motor the poles never contacts the same section at same time)

What they do - stop the spikes from motor/inductive load...

loads of stuff out there but a before/after...

https://youtu.be/F3IsdlBVwSI?t=260

& go to say 5:10 to see nearly no spark with diode

https://youtu.be/F3IsdlBVwSI?t=310

(that spark is same arcing at trolley/switch in gun)

So ICS know their stuff for reducing arcing - though wtf didn't they do this by default ???

However only for cheap 2 tab motors, even G&G cheapo 18k motors shouldn't have this fitted

(coz shorting at the lock ring under end bell with added diode on SHS/G&G type motors)

What this translates to - you can drop a diode in, run on 11.1v on shit motor and reduce the arcing

thus not needing to install a mosfet straight away, to run on higher juice to squeeze out more zest

NB does NOT eliminate arcing at switch like mosfet,

but seriously reduce arcing from spikes for say 20p (on cheapo 2 tab motors) to run on higher juice

perfect for cheapo £100 gun, you want to add a bit more zest with least fucking about out of the box

(later on when it busts, needs a tweak then open & do the upgrades/mosfet etc...)

 

[Skara]

Well you don't want 11.1v AND SHS 13:1 - just 11.1v as a cheap stop gap

Oh no I'm not going to run 13:1s on a 11.1, I'm stupid but not THAT stupid

What I meant was I'm gonna run a 11.1 on stock gears and motor, with just the mosfet wired. When the motor arrives then I'm gonna swap it and run 7.4s, eventually doing adjustments.

13:1 gearset is not going to be installed until/unless the stock gears shit the bed. Given that the gun is brand new it's gonna take a while to break.

 

[Speedbird_666]

I'm kinda tempted to build a 'sleeper' gun out of one of these - 13:1 gears, Warfet, 16TPA motor - something along those lines all whilst keeping the externals completely stock.

There's something to said about the old-school furniture - you're quite right @Skara - you don't see many around - it's all rail systems and bolt-ons.

I saw this real steel video earlier today - it did make me chuckle:

 

[Sitting Duck]

Oh no I'm not going to run 13:1s on a 11.1, I'm stupid but not THAT stupid

What I meant was I'm gonna run a 11.1 on stock gears and motor, with just the mosfet wired. When the motor arrives then I'm gonna swap it and run 7.4s, eventually doing adjustments.

13:1 gearset is not going to be installed until/unless the stock gears shit the bed. Given that the gun is brand new it's gonna take a while to break.

Well if/when you strip it down for mosfet, check/smooth out any burrs inside according to Luke/Neg Airsoft

if you got the std spring guide (non bearing) instead of bearing one...

https://gunfire.com/en/products/qd-spring-slide-for-ar15-specna-arms-edge-tm-replicas-1152224920.html

then if you got any spare bearing & races from bearing piston heads...

soak the fucker in hot water, after a while, slide a decent knife or thin screwdriver down between and push off the blue sleeve

fit the race-bearing-race, some bearings/race can be a tight fit & others are just perfect

tap the blue sleeve back on - viola bearing spring guide from some old bits from your spares box

other than that, looks pretty decent inside, especially if you got metal rack piston too...

13:1's could go straight in (not re-enforced at back restricting the faster gears install)

metal rack would be a touch if you want to SS

Gotta admit, though the carbine handguard is maybe not my first choice

for the money you get quite a good bang for your bucks with decent internals (after a deburr & regrease)

plus quick change spring (bearing spring guide from your spares box)

and for under £100 even...

https://www.onlyairsoft.com/product/specna-arms-rra-sa-e18-edge-carbine-replica-chaos-grey/

 

[Skara]

Not going for bearing spring guide/piston head unless i SS, the energy output as of now is bang on for my limit (0.95J, 1J limit, I absolutely cannot have a sigle reading above 1J, sometimes people get fuckt over having ONE reading of 1.0000000J).

Bought the motor, gears and a bunch of wires. Turned out a bit expensive from our friend at ak2m4 but heh, don't care too much, that's how it is with shipping from the UK

I do actually have a bearing non qd spring guide, I don't use it anyway, so should the need for a bearing spring guide arise, I'm covered  Nice tip you gave me there

 

[Skara]

So, stuff from @ak2m4 arrived, the motor alone gives me 16 rps which is fantastic, I reckon I could get 1/2 more RPS by hardwiring the mosfet (will do it this Saturday) and off we go for its first outing on Sunday

Will do the usual shimming check and give it a little grease as I've heard specnas come with zero grease (opposed to the other low cost brands which dump a whole can of grease per gearbox).