Do I have all the parts here to rebuild my v6 gearbox?

[paradoxum]

Long story short reassembling my thompson snow wolf m14a pulse rifle gearbox, cleaned everything with engine degreaser, rinsed and dried, ready to put back together (spring not in pics), anyone able to see if I have all the parts?

sans the shims as I have an shs shim set on order from amazon I'll use for it.

https://imgur.com/a/uirvb1H

what parts should I grease, what parts should I use silicone lube and oil gun lube on specifically? I've looked for a tech to just do this for me but can't find any so going to have a whack at it myself soon.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Asomodai]

I see no gear shims?

 

[paradoxum]

Oh yeah, I tossed the ones that were with it because they were bent and shit, I'm waiting on a replacement set from amazon should be here tomorrow. But other than that does it look like everytyhing is there?

I need to solder up my mosfet trigger contact wires, aside from rebuilding the gearbox this is all I have to do in there, pointers please! https://imgur.com/a/HGD6IXT

Thanks, 

para

 

[Iceni]

Orange.

Then connect the reds back up to each other.

Everything looks there.

 

[paradoxum]

Orange.

Then connect the reds back up to each other.

Everything looks there.

 

Click to shrink...

Thank you. So chop the two red 'orange' wires, solder them back together with the sensor wires on each, doesn't matter which is on which wire since they're both red and the double sensor cable is both black wires? (could just be swapped around with the connector on the mosfet if wired improperly I guess, but is that basically what I gotta do?)

Don't suppose you could ms paint where these bits go in the gearbox? 2 little grubs and a tiny spring, I can't see in any gearbox rebuild vids where they should go.

Thanks again,

para

 

[Iceni]

2 tiny grub screws will be for the selector's arms. They should have a threaded hole in each to lock to a bar.

the tiny sping - no idea, it could be part of the trigger assembly. I've only ever done p90's v6's.

Actually, upon reflection, the small brass part and the tiny spring go together. They look to make a detent for a trigger or selector.

The bigger spring is for the tappet plate.

Watch a P90 gearbox rebuild guide. It'll cover 90% of what you need to see.
 

 

[paradoxum]

8 minutes ago, Iceni said:

2 tiny grub screws will be for the selector's arms. They should have a threaded hole in each to lock to a bar.

the tiny sping - no idea, it could be part of the trigger assembly. I've only ever done p90's v6's.

The bigger spring is for the tappet plate.

Watch a P90 gearbox rebuild guide. It'll cover 90% of what you need to see.
 

Click to shrink...

Thanks that's one of the vids I have bookmarked. the larger spring = tappet plate yeah I just have no idea where that tiny one came from, as well as the tiny little brass nubbin' part.

 

[Iceni]

Like I say it looks like a detent.

It might be for the safety. On the gun externals, have a look at the safety bar and see if there are 2 small dents that the brass bit just sits in nice. If that's the case then there will be a hole/tube on the body. You'll drop in the spring, then the brass, and the plate over the top of the assembly of the body. I might be wrong but that's all I can think of ATM.

Those grub screws are almost certainly the selector knobs on the outside of the gun, the hole they go in is just under the round bar that sticks out.

 

[paradoxum]

Like I say it looks like a detent.

It might be for the safety. On the gun externals, have a look at the safety bar and see if there are 2 small dents that the brass bit just sits in nice. If that's the case then there will be a hole/tube on the body. You'll drop in the spring, then the brass, and the plate over the top of the assembly of the body. I might be wrong but that's all I can think of ATM.

Those grub screws are almost certainly the selector knobs on the outside of the gun, the hole they go in is just under the round bar that sticks out.

Click to shrink...

Thanks a lot. Yeah the grubs are definitely for the selector knobs. I've soaked everything in engine degreaser and scrubbed everything clean, just waiting for a set of shims to arrive before I rebuild it, in the meantime I'll splice those cables and add the sensor wire to the trigger - but when rebuilding it, where and what type of oil or grease should I use? For example, I figure I should use a cotton swab and put a small layer of general engine grease on the shafts for all the cogs and their sprockets etc - what about around the teeth? I've got some Abbey Gun/Rifle oil and Abbey Silicone oil, what parts should I put some of that on during reassembly?

thanks again, huge help. going to save me having to send it off just to get this done.

 

[Iceni]

Grease is very personal.

Some will tell you about superlube or something similar and it's amazing properties.

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/grease/super-lube-synthetic-grease-10ml-syringe

Me I go on a simple set of rules.


Plastic on plastic - Silicone grease.
Plastic on metal - Silicone grease.
Metal on metal - Moly grease.
O-rings - silicone oil or light silicone grease.

You can use silicone grease everywhere. It's not going to hurt anything at all, even for the gears. It doesn't offer as much protection on metal to metal application like the gears. Moly is superior here simply because moly sticks to the metal and coats it with small particles that offer the best slip and surface protection. It is also much more resistant to been crushed out by the gears. For airsoft it doesn't matter too much. Just don't use moly for plastic on plastic as it is mildly abrasive in that application.

You can decant the spray abby silicone oil by spraying it into the lid. The resulting liquid is very good silicone oil for o-rings.


My preference for branding is very cheap. These are the exact products I've been using for a few years.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SYNTHETIC-SILICONE-GREASE-WITH-TEFLON-50g-TIN-2HT-PLASTIC-SAFE-LOW-FRICTION/391399159157?hash=item5b21353575:g:fDUAAOSw6fBclQTY

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Molly-MOS1-Grease-for-Airgun-Servicing-50-GRAM-TIN/392277260645?hash=item5b558bf965:gckAAOSwwSJcJmb5
 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-TREADMILL-SILICONE-LUBRICANT-OIL-30ml-BOTTLE-HANDY-SIZE/391997538191?hash=item5b44dfbf8f:g:0J0AAOSwMLBapBnY


 

 

[paradoxum]

Well I'd rather not have to buy more oils / grease, so I've got the abbey gun oil (in a tin can with a dropper) and abbey silicone oil which is in a little tub with a dropper - I don't know the brand but I've got some engine grease somewhere here for my motorbike - I asked the same question on reddit and got this reply:

"

The part amount looks good to me at first sight.

You grease:

• All the gears
  
• The spring guide
  
• The anti-reversal latch
  
• Any other that is metal-metal friction
  

You use silicone oil on:

• Tappet plate,
  
• Selector plate
  
• Piston
  
• Any other metal-plastic or plastic-plastic friction"
  

When he / you say grease - should I use the abbey 'gun oil' or this actual engine grease in a tub I have? And when he says grease the gears, I'm assuming he means just the parts that slot in to let them spin and not the actual teeth on the gears themselves? surely I want to keep the teeth of the gears nice and dry and clean? or am I wrong there?

Looks like my shims are going to take a few days to arrive so I'm just gathering intel and such.

I had a little play about with it earlier and I noticed that the teeth on the plastic piston were getting a bit worn - is it worth getting a new one / upgraded one or something while I have the gearbox open? same goes for the actual gears etc. I've looked into that in the past and the whole X amount of teeth confused me because I didn't know what would or wouldn't work together and fit in the gearbox and all that. I'll edit and post more pics in a bit.

 

[Iceni]

When he / you say grease - should I use the abbey 'gun oil' or this actual engine grease in a tub I have? And when he says grease the gears, I'm assuming he means just the parts that slot in to let them spin and not the actual teeth on the gears themselves? surely I want to keep the teeth of the gears nice and dry and clean? or am I wrong there?

Click to shrink...

You want grease in the teeth and on the faces of all the gears. Without it the gearbox will be noisy and you'll wear the teeth/faces faster, and the gears will produce more heat due to friction and may start to spall.

• All the gears - Moly
  
• The spring guide - Moly
  
• The anti-reversal latch - Moly
  
• Any other that is metal-metal friction - Moly
  

Click to shrink...

• Tappet plate, - Moly because it's hard to keep clean of it.
  
• Selector plate - Silicone oil
  
• Piston - Silicone grease on the side slides, Oil on the orings
  
• Any other metal-plastic or plastic-plastic friction" - If it's outside of a moly area then silicone grease or oil. Trigger ect all benefit from a dab of oil/grease
  

Click to shrink...

I had a little play about with it earlier and I noticed that the teeth on the plastic piston were getting a bit worn - is it worth getting a new one / upgraded one or something while I have the gearbox open?

Click to shrink...

If the teeth are still good then it's your call. If they mesh well to the sector gear it's not a problem. I generally run the piston till it breaks or looks like it will break. Using it like a weak link. I'd rather shear the teeth off a piston than a gear.

 

same goes for the actual gears

Click to shrink...

Your gears look to be in decent condition, Check then for missing teeth and cracks. The faces don't tend to wear unless the gear are cheese grade.

You replace gears in sets. A whole set is about £15. They will come matches across the set.

18:1 is standard for most guns.
13:1 is for a higher speed build using a HT motor. (less gear turns for a piston pull, but more motor stress).


You can't get away for the need for some silicone grease. Like I say it's more important than you might think. The car grease might be O.K but car grease tends to be pretty thick. It will work but it might also add drag to the gearbox. If you are been super cheap get the superlube from AK2M4. It'll do everything for £2.50 and you can have a look at gears and pistons on there as well, He also sells shims ect. And his postage is normally 2 working days.

 

[paradoxum]

More pics of the internals if anyone can see anything missing; https://imgur.com/a/oXeRNrw