AEG to HPA conversion kits and what's "best" (sorry for this one).

[LightningCh]

Hey guys, been a loooong time since I actually last logged on here... Like, way too long...
Had a poke round the HPA section looking, and I can't find anything from relatively recent threads on this. So this is unfortunately a rather What gnu is bestest style question lol so sorry about this one.

Anyway, I'm going to jump over to HPA under a conversion kit for my G&G Wild Hog 7" and my TM Hi Capa gold match, but my question is.
What's the best moneysink to use for a HPA conversion kit?

There looks to be some good package deals on High Pressure Airsoft but not so sure if they are as good as they seem? The engines listed in these packages are the

• P* Jack
  
• P* F1
  
• P* F1
  
• P* Fusion
  
• Wolverine Spartan 
  
• Wolverine Inferno Premium
  

They all come with 48ci tanks at 3000 PSI

And they all come with Balistyk regulators and a line

But, which engine will actually be the most money beneficial for standard M4 playing (so full auto and semi, mostly semi auto spamming)?

Or is this a situation where it won't really matter other than just the features such as how you control the engine? (like the Jack has a large FCU with a display and such)

Would rather make an informed decision before dropping £££ into it.

Cheers.

 

[proffrink]

At this point they're basically all as good as one another for someone starting out. Polarstar are a bit pricey but their Fusion kits are necessary for certain weird gearboxes/nozzle arrangements and for specialised tuning - the rest are widely compatible as they're all straight V2 drop-ins (fine for your G&G Wild Hog). There are some marginal differences in air consumption between all of them, but all will go to a ridiculously high RoF that you'll probably never want to use, and all have a trigger response so quick that you'll never be able to tell them apart. The only thing I'd consider slightly would be the FCU choices, but again both brands cover those as far as something fancy like a bluetooth FCU goes. Really not necessary frankly as you'll set it once (the FCU, that is) and probably never again.

In short: Buy the cheapest - they are all great choices and at this point solenoid HPA is extremely refined. Likely to be the Jack or Inferno I'd imagine.

 

[LightningCh]

Cheers proffrink at least I know it's more down to personal preference now.

The cheapest is actually the Spartan but I've done zero research into that one lol. So I guess a bit more research and then I'll just buy what will work for my preference (want a display screen FCU really because trigger commands and computers seems like a hassle lol)

Thanks again  

 

[proffrink]

The default FCUs are usually just two control dials (they are on the Wolverine ones at least) - dwell and RoF. Neither are helped by using a GUI of any sort frankly as you'll only need to set it up once. I'd only consider the bluetooth if you're going to be changing it on a game day. I suppose something like a gun that you'd like to flip over to be a DMR at some point in the day? Not sure what the use case is on this.

One thing I will say is if you want a high rate of fire be sure that you have quality magazines. Most of these choices will be limited by how quickly your magazine can feed reliably. That said, if you're going over 30BBs/s you're probably being silly

 

[LightningCh]

Oh fair enough then.

But I just spotted something about a lack of QD fittings on P* engines on the site and the lines are Redline fittings?? That's really confused me there because I thought factory standard nowadays was a QD fitting? lol. Probably fixed by just buying the amped airsoft lines and IGL they sell. (although thats defeating the point of the package then...)
hmmm, will compare the actual prices to if i buy the parts separate as I kinda need QD for the hi capa.

And for high fire rate, meh, it'd be nice, and I use the PTS EPMs so I'd imagine I can achieve it easily if I do go for ROF lol.

 

[proffrink]

Standard fitting for 99% of HPA stuff is a US-spec quick disconnect. Redline use them, Polarstar use them, everything uses them. The only exception you might see is on very high air requirements such as on Daytona Guns where they occasionally use an EU quick disconnect (which as a marginally wider internal bore diameter). Redline don't make a fitting of their own as far as I'm aware. Where are you seeing this?

You can use any line on any engine, basically. The internal line/grip line (that - as the name suggests - goes from the engine itself to just outside the grip (where you then attach it to the main line). On Polarstar this is just a standard 6mm macro line (basically just a 6mm wide plastic air line) that's a bit shit. Most people buy something like this: http://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/store/p227/Amped_IGL_(Fusion%2C_V12).html and replace it by threading directly onto the engine, but for certain engines there's no thread inside the engine to attach this to (and so you just use a push fitted version like this: http://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/store/p178/Amped_Grip_Line_(AGL).html

And then there's the other choice of just leaving it as it is (which is fine for most cases, but I have seen the push fitting on the end of that stock macro line come off during games and then air just starts spraying. The macro lines are also more vulnerable to kinking.

In short, whichever you buy I'd advise the applicable 'grip line' as a small upgrade to the durability of your gun. Looks neater too.

 

[LightningCh]

Thanks for clearing that up. When names are different I start to panic lol. 

Standard fitting for 99% of HPA stuff is a US-spec quick disconnect. Redline use them, Polarstar use them, everything uses them. The only exception you might see is on very high air requirements such as on Daytona Guns where they occasionally use an EU quick disconnect (which as a marginally wider internal bore diameter). Redline don't make a fitting of their own as far as I'm aware. Where are you seeing this?

I'm seeing the "no QD" on http://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/store/p3/PolarStar_Jack_HPA_Drop_In_Engine.html on their actual engine pages in big capital writing lol.

And on like the package deal and stuff it says "Redline fittings" which just kinda meant nothing to me lol (although it looks like a Macro line at one end and a QD at the other.)

You can use any line on any engine, basically. The internal line/grip line (that - as the name suggests - goes from the engine itself to just outside the grip (where you then attach it to the main line). On Polarstar this is just a standard 6mm macro line (basically just a 6mm wide plastic air line) that's a bit shit. Most people buy something like this: http://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/store/p227/Amped_IGL_(Fusion%2C_V12).html and replace it by threading directly onto the engine, but for certain engines there's no thread inside the engine to attach this to (and so you just use a push fitted version like this: http://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/store/p178/Amped_Grip_Line_(AGL).html

They do, do specific models for the IGL  let's say I go for the Jack drop in kit 
(These amped airsoft use the "FOSTERS" / US QD ones)
http://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/store/p226/Amped_IGL_(Jack%2C_N7%2C_Mk2.5).html

So all in all, its just the names causing confusion but because I want to avoid kinking macros

If I buy the jack package bundle, http://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/store/p51/Polarstar_Jack_Engine_Package.html
and then add this amped IGL, http://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/store/p226/Amped_IGL_(Jack%2C_N7%2C_Mk2.5).html
And then this main line http://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/store/p136/Amped_HPA_Lines_36"_.html
It will fit everything.
Guess it's a good thing I've got the money for this lol.

If you don't mind just checking these over for me to make sure I'm not about to spend £450 on  kit thats wrong lol.

I mean it looks right to me, in theory all connectors will be there lol.

 

[Aengus]

I wouldn't go for wolverine. I have the spartan.

-Semi rof is limited

-full auto switch has broken

Not integral just annoying. If you want p* now is the time as prices are(possibly have) going(gone) up.

 

[LightningCh]

I wouldn't go for wolverine. I have the spartan.

-Semi rof is limited

-full auto switch has broken

Not integral just annoying. If you want p* now is the time as prices are(possibly have) going(gone) up.

Think that has settled my mind to go with the P* Jack then lol
Thanks for the input Aengus 

 

[Aengus]

Think that has settled my mind to go with the P* Jack then lol
Thanks for the input Aengus 

Once you get it make sure it's aligned right (plenty of vids on it) then set your dwell etc (once again plenty vids) and pew away!

 

[LightningCh]

Once you get it make sure it's aligned right (plenty of vids on it) then set your dwell etc (once again plenty vids) and pew away!

Yeah I will  something to do with heavy nozzle wear and tear if its misaligned. I'll probably get the kit, and then spend a week just trying top set it up properly before even filling the tank lol

 

[GREG_BURTON]

Hey mate if you are around Stevenage you can pop by one evening and check out some of my HPA guns to see if it is for you etc?

 

[LightningCh]

Hey mate if you are around Stevenage you can pop by one evening and check out some of my HPA guns to see if it is for you etc?

Unfortunately I'm up North near Birmingham so that's a long trek lol

I appreciate your offer but luckily I have played with a couple different HPa guns before, (Scorpion Evo, Tippman M4 etc.) so I already know the game of wearing a tank and using a line. Although that line was way too long for my slight frame lol.

Thanks anyway though

 

[Shizbazki]

If your playing mostly Semi ( and mostly semi auto spamming) then i would recommend the Polarstar Fusion Engine for that, the JACK (and other JACK like clones which replace the cylinder assembly) are ok but not as good.

You're gonna ask why so ill give you my two cents and explain this as best as i can, from here on end i will refer to the Fusion Engine as FE and the JACK as JACK but this will include any HPA kit which replace the cylinder assembly such as the Redline N7, Wolverine et al.

It all really boils down to one thing, the trigger switch on the trigger board.

See the below picture which is for a Polarstar JACK, the trigger switch is indicated by the "S1", the actual switch is the white rod coming out of the switch on the left hand side of it just below the "J2" letters.

Now see the Trigger board for the FE, the trigger switch is again indicated by the "S1" and the actual trigger is the black rod poking out.

So whats the difference?

Well its how the switches feel, see the JACKs switch does not give a tactile feel when you pull the trigger. When you pull the trigger it hits the white rod, as the rod goes in somewhere between the top and bottom of its travel is the "FIRE" Command, keep it pressed and it will either do full auto (when in full auto) or just fire the one shot (in semi). Getting it back to reset requires you allow the trigger to fully disengage before you can loose off the next shot. Like i said hard to explain but much easier to notice when you have two guns and compare them side by side.

The FE on the other hand has a "clicky" tactile feel when the "FIRE" command is given, its very similar to hitting a mouse button, the fast you pull the trigger, the faster it can shoot. I have managed to obtain about 12RPS using semi only on my M4.

Also its much easier to mod the FEs body to make any trigger a speedy one. If you look at the photo below you will notice that my trigger in the HPA lower is already quite far back when compared the AEG lower which has a TITAN in it. Just pulling it a millimetre will actuate the FE switch and fire the gun.

 

[LightningCh]

The FE on the other hand has a "clicky" tactile feel when the "FIRE" command is given, its very similar to hitting a mouse button, the fast you pull the trigger, the faster it can shoot. I have managed to obtain about 12RPS using semi only on my M4.

Also its much easier to mod the FEs body to make any trigger a speedy one. If you look at the photo below you will notice that my trigger in the HPA lower is already quite far back when compared the AEG lower which has a TITAN in it. Just pulling it a millimetre will actuate the FE switch and fire the gun.

I like the idea of having a clicky feel and such and I didn't realise it was easy to mod lol, so something to consider when it comes to it I guess.
Although I have zero need for 12RPS on Semi because most sites I play at don't allow such a high RoF ?
 

Thanks for the info on that

 

[Shizbazki]

I like the idea of having a clicky feel and such and I didn't realise it was easy to mod lol.

Its quite an easy mod but its not been widely publicised anywhere, i took my inspiration from Bingoworks Airsoft and just adapted it.
http://www.bingoairsoftworks.com/adding-a-v2-fusion-engine-trigger-hard-stop-to-prevent-micro-switch-damage/

He used a screw and nut, but i think mine is more elegant

But you will need tools!
All i used was a cordless drill with 2.5mm drill bit

A tap and die set (which i already owned) using a 3mm x 5 i think tap

some loctite

and two small 3mm grub screws.

You essentially drill a hole behind the trigger in the trigger pocket through the FE chassis (having removed everything of course).

The hole has to go through the outer part of the chassis and into the next set of metal.

Then you tap the holes to put in a thread.

Then i screwed in a grub screw at the desired depth and loctite'd it

I then did the same with the other to push the trigger until it just touches the trigger switch.

You might have to file down the safety lever bar

Once set adjust as necessary both screw, enough that the trigger button can reset and enough so you don't crush the trigger button.

Once done it is set.

Again hard to describe but easier to show, unfortunately my gun is resting in its storage and i have so many locks to get to it i cannot be bothered, if i get it out for some maintance i might throw up a youtube video of it.

 

[Aengus]

Its quite an easy mod but its not been widely publicised anywhere, i took my inspiration from Bingoworks Airsoft and just adapted it.
http://www.bingoairsoftworks.com/adding-a-v2-fusion-engine-trigger-hard-stop-to-prevent-micro-switch-damage/

He used a screw and nut, but i think mine is more elegant

But you will need tools!
All i used was a cordless drill with 2.5mm drill bit

A tap and die set (which i already owned) using a 3mm x 5 i think tap

some loctite

and two small 3mm grub screws.

You essentially drill a hole behind the trigger in the trigger pocket through the FE chassis (having removed everything of course).

The hole has to go through the outer part of the chassis and into the next set of metal.

Then you tap the holes to put in a thread.

Then i screwed in a grub screw at the desired depth and loctite'd it

I then did the same with the other to push the trigger until it just touches the trigger switch.

You might have to file down the safety lever bar

Once set adjust as necessary both screw, enough that the trigger button can reset and enough so you don't crush the trigger button.

Once done it is set.

Again hard to describe but easier to show, unfortunately my gun is resting in its storage and i have so many locks to get to it i cannot be bothered, if i get it out for some maintance i might throw up a youtube video of it.

Speed HPA trigger has a built in adjustment for over travel so you can never fully compress the switch if it's correctly adjusted. http://www.highpressureairsoft.co.uk/store/p70/Speed_Airsoft_Tuneable_Trigger.html

 

[gasman]

Proffrink you have a lot of good knowledge and advice!!