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That sounds like a bad idea to me - you should try your best to minimise the chances of scratches to the inside of your barrel and, even though brass is soft for metal, the barrel itself is not tempered carbon steel - dragging metal through it will scratch it to some extent. Such fine scratches affect range and can affect accuracy since they have a slightly higher friction coefficient than an unscratched polished surface and this affects the stability of hop induced backspin, ie minute fractions more or less spin on either side of the BB.5.5mm brass tubing - This is for the manufacture of a brass pull through for my SMLE. Plan is to cut a length and fill it with epoxy and embed the end of a length of string. This is instead of having a cleaning rod. The idea is that you use the brass weight to pull the string through the barrel and the end of the string has a small loop so you can then pull a piece of rag through the barrel to clean it.
Brass coloured metallic Humbrol Enamel - to add weathering and detail to my scope so it looks more correct. Also to paint the end of the pull through so the epoxy doesn't show.
oh god yes.![]()
TAG 'Starter kit' (one launch shell and 8 Reaper rounds) plus another shell. Fit nicely in my ARES EGLM, just waiting for an opportunity to test fire.
I would need a 65 cm or longer cleaning rod. The metal isn't dragged through the barrel, it's just a weight to thread the string through the barrel. You would then pull the string through with the alcohol swab or piece of cloth on the end. I was going to use Brass as it would then look like the real steel cleaning kit, kept in the hole in the stock, which is a lot simpler than carting a 65cm cleaning rod around, if I could find one.That sounds like a bad idea to me - you should try your best to minimise the chances of scratches to the inside of your barrel and, even though brass is soft for metal, the barrel itself is not tempered carbon steel - dragging metal through it will scratch it to some extent. Such fine scratches affect range and can affect accuracy since they have a slightly higher friction coefficient than an unscratched polished surface and this affects the stability of hop induced backspin, ie minute fractions more or less spin on either side of the BB.
As there is no combustion, you are never going to need to actually scrub the inside, so you do not need to be able to drag a rag up and down the barrel so many times that a string is sufficiently more efficient over a plastic cleaning rod for it to be worthwhile. If you do ever submerge your gun in muddy water you should disassemble it and soak the barrel in hot soapy water and rinse repeatedly until there is no chance of dragging fine sand through the barrel when you use a piece of rag to clean out any oily/greasy residue.
The best method is to use alcohol swabs on the end of those plastic cleaning rods with the slot in one end.
Where did you get the Sawtooths ?Pair of merrell sawtooth boots and a set of diamond plate pattern rail covers.
Via the wondrous bay of e. Coming from the US.Where did you get the Sawtooths ?
OK, might try oiling the tube so the epoxy doesn't adhere. That way I get the look of brass but can remove it when actually using it. The Brass tube will also prevent damage to the epoxy from the brass oil bottle that's also kept in the stock.I still reckon you'll do some damage to your inner barrel with a brass weight. Like Ian says, even small abrasions can have a big effect on small, light projectiles like BBs.
Might be better off using hardwood or dense plastic. Anything that's considerably softer than the material the inner barrel's made of, which is probably also brass.
PLEASE make a video out of these. Id love to see a good review that ain't in Russian![]()
TAG 'Starter kit' (one launch shell and 8 Reaper rounds) plus another shell. Fit nicely in my ARES EGLM, just waiting for an opportunity to test fire.