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What have you just 3d printed (for airsoft)

Another day, another project.

After getting messed around by JK Army I ended up buying a L85A3 MLOK rail directly from Angry Gun. This is getting fitted to a Ares L85A3 and obviously isn't a direct fit. I was going to chop up the Ares to make it work but since I have 3D printers, it seemed rude not to knock something up.

Below is the 3D model.

View attachment 137127

The V1 prototype is on the bottom and the original part on the top. V2 is in the printer now as I had to make some adjustments. Once I'm happy with the shape I'll start modding the 3D model to fit the Angry Gun rail.

View attachment 137128

I also printed a very thin barrel band so that the Angry Gun gas block could be used.

View attachment 137129

 
A couple of other things I've been working on. I got the EMG speedloader but battery size is limited so I knocked up a base that allows for a larger battery and somewhere to keep all the adapters otherwise I'll lose them in about 5 minutes.

View attachment 137364

View attachment 137365

I also bought the WELL Rattler and didn't fancy using the PEQ box for the battery so I knocked up a longer rattler style handguard and added a 50mm barrel extension to allow for a saddlebag lipo to be contained inside the handguard. Original handguard is shown to show the size difference. View attachment 137366

 
Last edited by a moderator:
ButcherBill said:
Will 3D polymer stuff be strong enough for this?
Click to expand...
I print in carbon fibre reinforced ABS which is plenty strong. You just have to think about the direction of the layers when you're working out print orientation. And in this case I'm going to need to split it to fit in the print bed. So I'm going to split it at 45° angles in order to maximise surface area when I stick it together

 
PopRocket123 said:
I print in carbon fibre reinforced ABS which is plenty strong. You just have to think about the direction of the layers when you're working out print orientation. And in this case I'm going to need to split it to fit in the print bed. So I'm going to split it at 45° angles in order to maximise surface area when I stick it together
Click to expand...


How stiff if that material? I've been slowly working on a benchrest stock design for my HFT500 (quoted £750 to get a custom one done) and was looking at using PPS-CF - but at £115 a roll it ain't cheap. I need to minimise flex otherwise there could be POI-shift issues.

 
Speedbird_666 said:
How stiff if that material? I've been slowly working on a benchrest stock design for my HFT500 (quoted £750 to get a custom one done) and was looking at using PPS-CF - but at £115 a roll it ain't cheap. I need to minimise flex otherwise there could be POI-shift issues.
Click to expand...
I haven't printed anything this big before so we'll see how it comes out. I'm not expecting it to be on par with some of those custom stocks out there but it's only for a fairly cheap Reximex Pretensis so I doubt it's got good enough performance to see much difference. It'd be interesting to experiment to see if I can come up with something solid enough to be good for that

 
mightyjebus said:
A couple of other things I've been working on. I got the EMG speedloader but battery size is limited so I knocked up a base that allows for a larger battery and somewhere to keep all the adapters otherwise I'll lose them in about 5 minutes.
Click to expand...


First thing I though when I saw these an the tiny battery space was I wonder how long before someone kocks up a printed extension.  Nice one.  Get em up for sale, make yourself a few quid. lol

 
ButcherBill said:
Why not design in a locking machanism like the Para Fal has?
Click to expand...
I had to google that stock ? 

I was thinking of using a spring and a bolt to lock it in place but I am trying not to over-engineer it if possible. I will try with a 'latch' that snaps into place but that you can easily unhook (but still fixed enough not to get unlatched. 

 
ParHunter said:
I was thinking of using a spring and a bolt to lock it in place but I am trying not to over-engineer it if possible. I will try with a 'latch' that snaps into place but that you can easily unhook (but still fixed enough not to get unlatched. 
Click to expand...
100% my point

 
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